We had a plaster ceiling that was cracking. We put new drywall up over the ceiling and finished the seams. We have finished drywall before, but only on wall. Apparently ceilings are alot harder. We have a tetured wall and really do not want a texture on the ceiling (we would never be able to match the textures anyway). We have primed and painted the ceiling with flat paint and can see the seams. We do not have alot of light in the room either. Does anyone have any suggestions to hide the seams? Thanks
2007-01-17 06:05:19 · 16 answers · asked by kc3 2 in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
The seams are called joints. The way to properly finish them is to apply joint tape, available in paper and fiberglass mesh. Embed the tape in joint compound using a wide putty knife held at an angle. When the compound is thoroughly dry, sand it completely smooth and reapply more joint compound, feathering out the joint compound until it is about 6-12 inches in width. Sand again until the surface iof the joint is in the same plane as the surface of the surrounding ceiling board.
2007-01-17 06:11:27 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 1⤊ 0⤋
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help! Finished drywall on a ceiling and you can see the seams?
We had a plaster ceiling that was cracking. We put new drywall up over the ceiling and finished the seams. We have finished drywall before, but only on wall. Apparently ceilings are alot harder. We have a tetured wall and really do not want a texture on the ceiling (we would never be able to...
2015-08-06 06:58:14 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
How To Finish Drywall Ceiling
2016-11-07 00:27:12 · answer #3 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
This is why you see a lot of ceilings with "popcorn" texture. The acoustic texture hides the flaws. Yes ceilings are harder cause you are working over head. You should use a 12" broad knife on the seams. The topping compound should be at least 12 or more inches wide. This will feather out the seam. A good dry wall-er could do this in no time and he wouldn't charge you much. Spend a few extra bucks and hire out, you already did the hard part. Good luck.
2007-01-17 06:18:42 · answer #4 · answered by Zerogee 3 · 1⤊ 0⤋
One problem I can see is that your joints may not be flush which makes the problem worst. If they are level with each other, apply your tape and then apply an 8" wide coat over that feathering the edges. Let dry and lightly sand rough spots. Go back over with a 10", resand to where it looks smooth but don't worry about divits or small blemishes. Finally Go over it with 12" knife with a "tight" coat. Your basically putting it on and taking it off with more pressure just to fill in any blemishes. Then lightly sand. Make sure to use lightweight joint compound for finishing.
If it is uneven, you must do a coat on each side of the joint, sometimes 3 or 4 rows of mud to get it to where you cannot feel a ridge running your hand over it. Remember the wider that you feather it out, the smoother it will look.
As for texturing, you can leave it smooth if you want. But texture will hide small blemishes. You can use knockdown, popcorn (acoustic) or stomp the ceilings with a pattern. Use flat paint afterwords.
2007-01-17 09:08:07 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 2⤊ 0⤋
Green is correct in the application of the mud and tape. The problem is that with copious lighting, the joints will always be visible, no matter how hard you try to hide them. You do not need to texture, although this will help hide the joints. Paint the ceiling with a flat paint. Do not use a semi gloss, satin or gloss finish as this will cause the joint to stand out further. Good luck.
2007-01-17 06:15:22 · answer #6 · answered by tim r 3 · 2⤊ 0⤋
My husband is a drywaller for 25+ years. He hates this kind of repairs because they are so hard to fix.
You need to resand where the seams are and make sure the seams are even, you will have to remud the seams and sand them down again until smooth. Them you can primer and paint again. The best light to use for imperfections are the tall touchier lamps with the light directed up at the ceiling.
Good luck.
By the way-the flat paint will always show any imperfections.
2007-01-17 06:13:22 · answer #7 · answered by It's been a while........... 3 · 0⤊ 3⤋
And adding to the tips: for your final coat, it helps if you use a VERY wide spackle knife--I tried to finish seams with a 3-inch knife and it didn't work worth a darn. If you are texturing, I recommend at least a six-inch knife for the final application; if you want it smooth, boogie on down to the local hardware store and get a 12-inch spackle knife. The #1 thing I have learned in four years of home ownership... the right tool for the job! The 12" knife will really help feathering.
2007-01-17 06:18:46 · answer #8 · answered by Brandon 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
it sounds like you didn't float them out far enough. how many coats of mud did you put on? how wide did you go? is it the butt or the taper seams or both, that are showing? the pro's use a quick dry mud and then follow it right up with another coat of regular compound the same day. many homeowners/d-i-y'ers, don't spread it out enough or sand too much. get a 10 or 12" knife and re coat the seams, spread it out to blend them. then you'll have to re prime and repaint, do the whole ceiling over with both, or you could have glossy paint on the seams. good luck, it's harder than it looks to get it right!
2007-01-17 06:22:49 · answer #9 · answered by car dude 5 · 2⤊ 0⤋
Get a wide dry wall knife, 8-10 inches, and apply new dry wall compound on it and allow it to sand before you take a wider drywall sander and sand it. All you are doing is skim coating and you can get dry wall compound that will quick dry
2007-01-17 08:26:17 · answer #10 · answered by Polyhistor 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋