how do i change a drop ceiling to a normal ceiling?

Question

i recently bought a house where the entire 1st floor is a drop ceiling. So i have took it upon myself to update my house and install a normal ceiling.. i have an idea about what i am doing but i am still uncertain about my plan. These are the facts. the drop ceiling is about 10" lower than the joists of the upper floor. there are plumbing pipes that run under the joists that are suspended but only about an 1" lower than the joists.. still leaving over 8 " of unused space above the tiles. so my plan is to run 2x4's perpendicular to the joists every 16" OC using brackets for support. so. that is my plan. iv'e obviously never done this before but i'm hoping that it will work. if anyone has ever done this type of work or has any knowledge about it. any pointers/advice/do's-don'ts would be greatly appreciated.

thanks.

the pipes as far as i know would require to much rework to move them up into the joists.

Answer 1

This will work -- I did the same thing in our basement years ago & it's held up fine. I used long screws instead of brackets, and put the 2x4s on flat. Take photos and make drawings of the pipes and wiring before you put up drywall, and sve them, so later you know where you can/can't cut holes in the ceiling for lights, etc. Put access covers in the drywall at every elec. box or pipe fitting you might need access to. Then it's a regular drywall job after all that.

Answer 2

That should work, provided you don't have any HVAC ducting in the way. You can hang the 2x4s vertically from the joists using a hanger like Simpson Strong-Tie's THA29 (see link). Or you could nail the 2x4s flat to the joists if 1 1/2" gives you adequate clearance for your plumbing. You haven't said whether the drywall on your walls already goes to the bottom of your ceiling joists. Hopefully it does, which will make it easier to hang and tape drywall on the 2x4 furring you've just installed.

Answer 3

Sounds like you have a good plan. You could save a couple of bucks by using long enough screws to go through the 2 x 4 and into the joist. This would eliminate the need for a lot of brackets. Be careful to not damage the pipes.

Answer 4

I would run the 2x4s on their side up against the joists and using shims if necessary to drop them down a bit to clear the pipes. My only worry with the brackets(I'm assuming you mean like joist hangers) is that if you intend to screw them to the wall you would want both sides of the hanger to go into a stud which given the width of the hanger one side wouldn't hit a stud causing instability and a good chance that the cieling joint along the wall would crack with movement. You could use the hangers if you put a board that is secured flat to the wall (screwed into the studs) and then attach the hangers to that but it would be easier and cheaper to do what I first suggested with 2x4s attached directly to cieling as long as it gives enouph clearence for the pipes.
Good Luck!

Answer 5

I don't think the brackets will work. I agree that they might eventually fail. Call your local drywall supplier (not Home Depot) and get some 2" hat channel. It is a light gauge metal framing product that you can screw this directly to the joists. It will only work if the pipes are 2" or closer to the joists.

Answer 6

First remove drop ceiling, but remember it was put there for a reason. Most likely to hide the upper ceiling.Take a look up there and see what your next project will be after removing drop ceiling. A lot of times drop ceilings are used to cover up old plaster ceilings which are repairable but much more difficult for the do-it your self-er. You can Sheetrock over old plaster if its not sagging to bad.You can re- frame just below the old ceiling without losing much ceiling height then sheet rock.Good Luck

Answer 7

If you were me, I would relocate the plumbing pipes with copper (if not already) pipes. If the pipes are galvanized steel, I would definitely replace with copper and relocate them. Just drill holes in the middle of the joists where the pipes are and install copper pipes and fittings. Sweating and soldering copper pipe joints are lot easier than you think. Just look up DIY channel internet site for tips. I guarantee you, installing the dry walls, taping and mudding the joints will be more work than the pipe work.

Answer 8

these brackets - they aren't acting as hangers they way the pipes are supported, are they? My fear is that, if that they are hangers, that the weight might be too great for only hangers. But if you mean brackers in terms of, for say, 2x4's, then I'd say that's the best way. You can't move the pipes and you need something to drop down, so perhaps 6" 2x4 segements will be your best bet.

I think you've got a good plan - its always hard to come behind previous house owners who did things the cheap way.

Answer 9

after you drop the old ceiling and do all your upgrades and insulating (because it works as well for soundproofing as it does for insulation) measure and run 2x4 flat and pre-drilled around the perimiter of the room. this will support the edge of the new drywall cieling. then either nail or screw them in place. then simply fill in the spaces between the new edge and each pipe along the floor joists.

Answer 10

If the pipework is not too extensive then it would make sense to relocate the pipework above the existing joists and plasterboard direct to those joists saving money and workload.

Of course i could be misunderstanding your question.

;) H