building a foundation?

Question

I need a Shed in my back yard. I have an old slab of cement 10x15, where the Garage used to be. the Slab isn't level at all
(about 1 1/2 inches from one side to the other)
I want to build a wodden foundation to put a 7x10 Rubbermaid Big Ultra Max Shed. Any suggestions to help level the foundation and prevent wood decay.

Answer 1

1 1/2 inches isn't a bad slope plus it may have been planned for water drainage in the past. Since you want the new shed leveled just get some 10' lengths of 'pressure treated' lumber and build a base frame and level that before installing the shed. Given the length use a good 6' level and shim the pieces accordingly.

Using self-leveling compounds isn't a bad idea but if you're looking for a quick and more structurally sound solution then just build a base frame.

Good luck!

Answer 2

1

Answer 3

Several options here; First option is to rent or purchase a "foundation jack". This is a special jack that will "lift" the low side of the slab. Place AT LEAST a 4' level on top of the slab in a diagonal and jack until it is level (both north-south AND east-west). Once level, place a 5/8" minus, crushed rock or gravel (just ask the local sand and gravel pit for "5/8 minus" and they'll know what your are talking about) in the void space below the slab. Place enough so that it is slightly higher than the surrounding grade (the soil that is already high enough)...this way, when you place the load (weight) of the slab and then the shed on it, it will selttle to "level". Then just place your shed on the slab (but remember to anchor it correctly !).

The second procedure I recommend it to just leave the slab "as-is", since it is only 1-1/2" off. Build a concrete / steel / or wood foundation right on the slab, and cut the pieces to be level (making up for the uneven slab below it), then place your shed on the "level" foundation. This method isn't as "pretty", but is less work-intensive, and easier....it all depends on how much work you want to do.

The first method is cheaper and "prettier", but lots more work. the second costs more, but is easier.

As far as "rot" goes...(for EITHER method mentioned above), dig a about a 8" wide trench all the way around the perimeter of the slab, about 1' deep. Place about 2" of CLEAN, WASHED, 1", drainage rock on the bottom of the trench. Then lay a 4" diamerter perforated, corrugated drainage pipe (this stuff is cheap at somewhere like Home Depot, Lowe's, etc). Then place more of the same drainage rock over the top of the pipe to equal the surrounding grade (ground surface). Hopefully, you can "tie-in" the drainage pipe I just described into something like one of the "down-spout" drains on the corner of your house or landscaping, etc. This will carry away the water from the slab and shed. If you can't find a "tie-in" pipe, leave out the 4" perf pipe, and just fill the trench with the clean gravel I described. This will provide a "drainage" basin for the water to infiltrate into (away from the slab and shed). This is probably what created the settlement and problems with the initial slab...

Hope this helps. Good luck !

Answer 4

Always! Even sometimes or at times, the foundation I will need not to worry about because the foundation was built with the Holy Spirit, and whatever it is I may be working on or at, is just building from the foundation that the Holy Spirit put work in as a young child.

Answer 5

Build a form around the concrete slab. Lever the edges, making sure it raises the area the half inch on the one side. Buy mortar mix -enough to cover the lower area and raise the entire area a bit for looks- mix it and pour it into the frame around the base. Take a 2 x 4 and smooth the top of the mortar by laying the board across the rectangular frame. The mortar or concrete should come to the top of the form and the 2 x 4 should slid across it smoothly for a nice finish. The board is only used to smooth the concrete and must be removed once level to allow the new elevation to dry. Once dry, remove the wooden frame or form so there will be no need for worrying about wood rot because the foundation will be concrete. Set your shed on the dry concrete and you are ready to go!!!

Answer 6

1 1/2 inch is the exact thickness of a 2 by 4 or 2 by 2. place one(treated) across the lowest edge. Place a 1 by 2 or 1 x 4 parallel to it in the center of the slab. Your floor joists will span these and be more or less level.

Answer 7

Build a frame around it..and then get and pour in what is called Floorcrete. It's a self leveling product. You can Google it and find the instructions. There are other products out there that do the same thing.

Good luck

Answer 8

buy 2 10 ft. and 2 8ft. 4x4's. cut to length to match shed dimensions. lay them on the slab where you want the shed. level them from the high corner. what ever measurement you have on the low ends needs to be taken off the high end,so that when you are done you have a level wooden bese. use treated 4x4's. you can then rip down 2x4's to run in between the 4x4's for support like a floor joist. attach shed to base. all the leveling compounds i have seen are way expensive, and you dont use mortar mix for leveling concrete. youcould form the outside perimeter and pour a concrete base but also expensive. its just a shed i would use treated lumber...its up to you

Answer 9

as long as your not setting up a pool table in there I'm sure youre lawn tractor won't mind an 1 1/2" slope but if you need it leveled the cheapest and easiest way would have to be using wolmanized 4x4's or 2x4's or plywood beneath shed and attached to existing slab

Answer 10

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