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If it breaks we will have to take the head apart, thought would try Yahoo for suggestions

2007-01-12 14:25:49 · 14 answers · asked by emad_gination 1 in Cars & Transportation Maintenance & Repairs

14 answers

spray a sh*tload of PB blaster or Liquid Wrench on it, let it sit for a day, then spray some more, wait another day, then give it a try with the ratchet. If it doesn't come loose then, nothing will do it.

2007-01-12 14:30:53 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

As you have read in the many answers that have been given from lubricant to heat. One thing that has not been mentioned, which as worked for me, is cold. I had a similar situation and packed dry ice around the the area of the plug (this is conjuction with lubricant). The cold shrinks the metal and will usually allow the item to be broken loose. As it comes loose you will (as mentioned in another answer) want to turn the plug back and forth removing it a little further each time until you can get it out. I have used this method on stainless to stainless components that have seized and found it to be the only thing that will work (in conjunction with lube). When you get it out bring the piston to the top and very carefully using the proper thread tap, tap out the hole then take a piece of tygon tubing on a vacuum and vacuum out any particulate that may have fallen into the cylinder (make sure the piston is at the top which can be done by placing small steel rod on top very carefully though). Unfortunately it is a trial and error situation where patience is the key. As mentioned in the beginning of this anwer, this worked for a plug that I had stick in a Toyota MR2 head. The head was saved and a new plug worked fine.

2007-01-13 00:10:06 · answer #2 · answered by kar183402 1 · 0 0

Try applying a lot of heat to the head around the circumference of the plug. Move the plug wires out of the way and anything else the might melt. The rate of expansion of the metal in the head is slightly greater than the rate of expansion of the metal in the spark plug. We're talking the slightest amount but that is all you need.

2007-01-12 23:29:16 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Apply smooth CCW torque just enough that it starts to turn. Stop and turn the plug back CW a little. Spray more lube and repeat turning back and forth adding a little CCW each time. Keep adding lube/solvent. You probably have carbon on the threads. Modern plugs last so long that a lot of people have these problems. Its a good idea to remove, inspect and clean plugs every so often to keep the threads in good condition and to check for any funny business going on a the cylinder.

2007-01-12 22:55:13 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Dodge Man may be right,,,,,,,,,,,It wont break if the socket fits properly and stays straight on the plug. If you can use the longest handle you can find. Even if you can fit a pipe over the end of the ratchet, You need more torque.

Even if you can borrow an impact wrench use that. Just be sure the socket is the right size and six point.

2007-01-12 22:40:45 · answer #5 · answered by apup76 3 · 0 0

if it's a ford 4.6 or a 5.4 it's probably going to bring the threads with it. would like to know what car you got and engine size(size matters). you can always put a bigger cheater on it and hope it's the plug that gives, if not, it had to come apart anyway. fyi a plug left loose will do this because it doesnt seal and carbon gets forced up the threads, sticking the plug.

2007-01-12 22:45:36 · answer #6 · answered by car rx 2 · 0 0

dont use a cheater pipe, dont use penetrents, and do not use a none sparkplug socket. tighten it before you try to loosen it. if you can back it out some but not all the way its either carboned up or mushroomed. break out a half *** decent torch, Oxy-Acet will do nicely and heat the surrounding area not the plug itself. if worse comes to worse, i know this is gonna sound stupid as hell and ill prolly be scorned from the automotive world forever for it....break it out. to do this you MUST BE CAREFULL!! break the insulator off and and drill out any porcelin fragments, once you do this carefully that a flat chisel and slowly tap on it till it bites in the side and tap of it till it starts turning. ive had to do this as a last ditch effort and it worked several times. clean up your mess and vacuum out as much debris as you can from the cyl. and for god sakes, use anti sieze next time.

2007-01-13 00:53:34 · answer #7 · answered by justin n 3 · 0 0

u know maybe you just need more leverage cuz thats the only way left to take them out. they shouldnt break if anything you might strip the threads but even then all you have to do is redo the threads and put in a helix coil and it should do it but thats a lot of work that you dont want to do. so again try leverage and if it dont work then i guess you do have to take off the heads.

2007-01-12 22:33:40 · answer #8 · answered by jeepaholic 3 · 0 0

cast iron heads;
1.) break off white insulator.. tap it with a hammer.. strain your guts getting it loose with a tight socket wrench?

2.) remove head.. drill out spark plug.. re-tap the treads.. install new plug?

aluminum heads;
same thing as above.. except heli-coil new threads..

beat up whoever installed plugs without anti-seize on the threads of the plug?

Does this help any?

2007-01-13 02:43:02 · answer #9 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

i own a repair shop,and whats causing this is probably carbon on the very end of the threads of it,,soaking it may help it usually does,,but if this car as an aluminum head on it ,it may bring the threads out with it when it comes out,,and it will have to be repaired,,or a plug wont stay in it,,,you,ll just have to be patient with it,,and hope it comes out,,there's no miracle cure for this one ,,i have to do the same thing once in a while..good luck hope this help,s.

2007-01-12 22:35:25 · answer #10 · answered by dodge man 7 · 0 0

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