What fabric was used in upper class dresses for women in the medieval times?

Question

I need this information for a project at school and we get to go to medieval times (the restrant).

Answer 1

It depends on several factors including where in Europe and what part of the middle ages.

In the 12th century in France, silk was the prefered material for the court dress known as the "bliaut". Silk was expensive, it could be made in Italy, but was often imported from the east. However, silk is stronger than any other fabric and made the extremes of the bliaut (a tightly laced torso and fluttery trailing sleeves) possible.

On the other hand, in England, the kind of very fine wool known as "scarlet" (it originally refered to the fabric, not the colour) was highly prized among the nobility. It could be dyed just about any colour, which allowed for dresses in a rainbow of colours (although red was the most sought after - and expensive! That is why "scarlet" has come to mean that shade of red). It became very well known on the continent, too and started a very lucrative trade for English wool merchants.

In Scandinavia, extremely fine linens were considered the height of fashion for well-to-do ladies. Norse ladies prefered pleated dresses and linen holds a pleat better than any other fabric. Silk was used primarily for decoration there: appliqued on cuffs and collars and such. Wool was considered an everyday fabric.

In Byzantium, brocaded fabric (with elaborate pictoral designs woven into the them, rather than printed on them) were used by the upper classes. Since Byzantium was considered the height of culture, this style spread to the rest of Europe. The tomb effigy of Queen Eleanor of Aquitaine from the 13th century shows her wearing a brocaded dress. The best brocades were made of silk, but they could also be made of wool.

Starting in the late 12th century, napped fabrics called "fustians" were developed. These became popular among the nobility in the Italian city states (like Venice and Florence). By the 14th century a kind of fustian we now call "velvet" had fully developed. True velvet was made from either silk, or a combination of silk and cotton. An imitation velvet called "velveteen" was made from all cotton. This was used for a lot of upper class clothes in the 14th & 15th centuries (the end of the middle ages) all over Europe.

Also during most of the middle ages, cotton was horrendeously expensive except in Sicily and Egypt (where it was grown). The King of Spain gave Queen Elizabeth I of England a cotton dress that she never wore because it was too precious, even for a queen!

A couple more notes:
In the middles ages, all women (including upper class women) wore two layers of dress: an under dress (sometimes called a chemise or kirtle) made of plain white or undyed linen, and then the "fashion layer". For lower class women this would have been a linen, hemp, or wool work dress. For upper class women, it would be the kind silk, wool, linen, brocade or velvet dresses I have described above.

In some times, like the 12th century, the over dress was cut so you could see part of the underdress (usually at the neck, wrists and hem). In other times, like the 15th century, you did not want your underdress to show at all. It was cut so it could be completely hidden under your overdress.

Lace was not common in middle ages until the very, very end. Then it was more common in places like Spain and Italy than the rest of Europe. It became common all over Europe during the Renaissance period. The most common ways to decorate a dress in the middle ages were by applique, tablet weaving (a way of making narrow patterned ribbons to sew onto a dress) and embroidery.

Have fun at Medieval Times!

Answer 2

Silk or velvet. Also lots of lace since that could be made locally.

Answer 3

Well there wasn't much around then, either cotton, wool, or silk. I would venture to say silk.

Answer 4

silk, wool, linen