how do you insl marble tile on counter tops. how do you install marble tile on a fire place.?

Answer 1

With no offense to answer number one about the substance, I disagree,,,BUT I also wouldn't use Marble for any counter top but a bathroom. I do not happen to like granite, though it is the trendy choice now. I prefer a composite such as Corian, but it's all relative.

After installing thousands of sq. ft. of all manner of tile, I suggest it's no different than ceramic. Measure, square the area, use the proper substrate, mortar, spacing, and grout, and install.

Certainly installing on a horizontal surface is less a challenge, and without knowing at all, what the fireplace is, in substance, by your Q info, I'd have to have MORE info.

Steven Wolf
(The Rev.)

Answer 2

I will assume you ask because you already know the pro's and con's about marble. So I won't tell you that marble gets easily dammaged by lemon, and milk soda pop, etc. I will also assume that you know that Honed (or mat) marble is now widly being used as opposed to Shiny marble.

So we will just talk about installing a marble tile counter.

In this example I will use a 24 inch standard kitchen counter. You can change the details as you need but the basic is the same.

This a method I use with tiles and a molding of my choice.

PREP
-Remove whatever counter you have now.

-Choose a molding as an MDF 1 Inch wide x 1/2 inch high x 8 feet long, you know the one they place on the floor along the baseboard to do the finishing.

-Then you will need to place a solid substrate 3/4 or 1" MDF boards over the cabinets where you have to install the tiles.
-Get all you're susbtrate precut at 25Inch by 8 feet from the hardware store
-At home, cut the boards to the required lenghts and install the boards over the cabinets.
** Now this is critical -it must be solid, if it wobbles, the tile will eventualy crack or even pop out.

MOLDINGS
Now you are ready to apply the moldings.
-Precut a molding to the right lenght
-Apply some wood glue on the top outer edge of the counter where the moldings will be placed or under the molding itself
-Using a nail gun and the right size nails, nail the moldings on the outer edge of the counter.
- Clean up the excess glue.
-Let dry

BREAK - go watch tv and we will be back tomorrow.

-Sand the moldings and the bottom of the substrate and excess glue until you have a smooth paintable finish. It should look as much as possible as if it was one piece with a very fine joint in between.

-Paint or stain the complete molding and go in and under whatever will remain exposed to the desired color.

What will be left on the counter is a 24 inch space where 12 x12 tiles will easily fall into place.

Now ask this at the hardware store to give you proper glue which can be used with MDF and Stone.

- Place the tiles on the counter making sure it all fits in properly. If the tile is toolong by 1/2 or less, you can cut into the gypse to make it fit, or you will need a grinder or wet saw to make the needed cuts. If you never did it before you may want to cut all the tiles first, place them in. If your marble is very veigned, this will be especially good to make sure you like the pattern you are creating. Number them on the back ( not on the front as they may stain) and remove them. Start to glue them in.
-Joints - well the smaller the joint, the nicest in my opinion but not as solid as a wider joint, buton a counter I reccomend as thin joint as possible.
- choose a color that best matches the tile, a touch lighter is usually the preference.
- you need to use a wall grout (or unsanded) mix to a creamy consistency and using a float (like a big rubber trowel) apply. No problem to over the entire surface, but do go over it a few times to make sure you push the air pockets out. Wipe while its still humid with a sponge and let dry.
BREAK time- lets go eat out tonight.
Next day, ( 24 hrs later)

Using- cheese cloth clean off the rest of the film.
-Wash using any type of marble soap or baby soap. No more tears means there is no acid in it, get it.
Wash it all well allow to dry.
BREAK a scotch and a cigar time.
When it dry -you need to seal these tiles and grout.

-apply a stone sealer, they are called IMPREGNATORS not a topical or coating sealer. These will penetrate to protect from discoloration. Marble will still lose its luster when the wine spills on it, but at least it wont turn red. If you were putting granite tiles, well wine acidity doesn't affect or remove the luster , but the coloring can still be absorbed if not protected. So you have to protect the stone.
-Allow to dry for 72 hrs ( curing time)

And thats it, you have an affordable, nicely professional looking counter.

Answer 3

Im sorry Ever Wolf, i'm sure you're a good contractor, but you're no tile installer. Non-sanded grout is for grout joints 1/8" or smaller. sanded grout is for grout joints 1/8" or larger. The sand is for stability in larger grout joints. NEVER use sanded grout in anything smaller than 1/8" When installing marble tile, it is customary to butt the tiles against each other with no grout joint at all. The edges of the tiles are machined with a micro-bevel so there will be a slight groove between them that are to be filled with an unsanded grout. Use latex fortefied WHITE thinset mortar. Marble can be a bit translucent and the darker grey thinset can show through. There is alot more to consider such as what to do with the edges, but that is too involved to try to explain here. good luck with your project!

Answer 4

As for the counters(if your going over formica): 1/4 in. hardiboard screwed down with (concrete board screws-trust me they do make a difference).
Band the faces with the same hardiboard, say 1.5in. strips, attached with mastic and roofing nails, be sure to predrill small holes for nails or you will break the hardi.
Install as you would anything else, butting together, and use unsanded grout. Keep in mind to do this right you will need to have quite a few of these tiles bullnosed/profiled. This is an expense many dont think of up front, but is usually an issue. Going rate here is $6-$8/linear foot if you take it to a granite shop and pick it up.

The Fireplace: The best way I have found is to lay the top course in first. Nail up a ledger board and make sure it's level. You can overlap the firebox to cover the seam, but I wouldn't overlap it more than 2-3 inches. Now center and install the top row resting them on the ledger board, keeping in mind how the "legs" are going to look. you want them to come down in one piece(not having 2 pieces with a grout joint that takes up 6 inches. In a few hours when it's setup, remove board and install legs.

Answer 5

I agree with the Steven W., also being a contractor, and will only add that you'll have to use a wet saw to make the cuts, which you can rent from most tool rental places.

Answer 6

you never realy want marble for countertops. it's too soft for countertop use as it will scratch rather easily, it's best to use granite for countertops.