i am turning my garage into office & need to know about isulating it?

Question

it has single skin brickwork & intend to baton out interior walls & plasterboard, but knot sure whats best to insulate cavity with.

Answer 1

The problem with 100mm insulation is you will have to batten out to almost the same thickness as the insulation. You are much better off using insulation wall slabs these are designed to fit CLS battens. Make sure you space the battens so the slabs fit in with out having to cut them. Also think about buying plaster board which is foil backed. Use bugle headed screws rather then nails.

Answer 2

BEFORE you concern yourself with insulating be sure you install proper vapor barriers If you do not, your insulation will not keep the area warm/cool since it will be clammy.

WALLS - build interior 2x 4 walls over the brick then insulate with kraft paper faced insulation with the best R value available for use between 2 x 4 studs. Use a swing stapler (job goes much faster - about $20 - use like a hammer but installs staples) to secure the kraft paper edges of the insulation to the 2 x 4's. The kraft paper faces the occupied area, just under the new dry wall. Be sure to mud and tape the dry wall joints to insure fire resistance.

Dry wall is an excellent fire barrier, however heat and flames will enter a non mudded/taped joint with disastrous results. Ever wonder why many new home builders mud/tape dry wall joints in garages when there is no plan to paiint?

FLOOR - I recommend covering the floor with carpeting BUT before you do, lay a sheet of 6 mil plastic sheeting as a vapor barrier. Do this whether or not the floor is on grade or above a crawl space and wheher or not it is poured concrete or other material(s)

CEILING - If you have access, use unfaced R-30 roll insulation above the ceiling. It need not be secured. You should have soffit vents - be sure you do not cover them with the above ceiling insulation. Ceiling insulation will give you a huge pay back. A ceiling should not feel any hotter or cooler to the touch than the adjacent room during heating and cooling seasons.

PERMITS - You are changing the basic use of your home and, in the U.S. this requires a permit. You must comply with all codes. If you do not you will have a problem when you sell and also when the tax man catches up with you. .

INSURANCE - Do not forget to advise your fire insurance company. The value of you home will be increased when you finish this project.

Answer 3

well, there are many choices. the best will be the sprayed on foam. this you usually have to have hired done. next would be the highest R value fiberglass you can get in the cavity without squashing it. Dead air is the real insulator. that foam in the cans around electrical boxes and behind them helps too. you can use the blown in paper stuff too, but it tends to settle out over time and i do not recommend it. be sure to insulate the ceiling or attic more than anything, heat rises.

anything that traps air will work. crumpled newspapers will work f the cavity is sealed enough. if you make absolutely sure the cavities are sealed, like applying caulk or construction adhesive to the studs and all, making a continuous line and a complete seal, your efforts will be increased.

Answer 4

Since you're likely to spend a lot of time in there, get your electrical and plumbing worked out (if you're going to have it. Frame it out, put up drywall, and have aircrete (a spray foam insulation material that becomes solid as it dries) applied. It's like foam, it's like cement, and it's like Great Stuff. It will keep you nice and warm as well as give your wall a lot of mass, so it will be quiet too.

If you do a search of aircrete on the internet, you would be able to find someone near you that does this.

Answer 5

If you had applied for planning permission and or `change of use`, your architect would have already specified these. You cannot do this without permission from your local council. You can be heavily fined and be made to return the office back into a garage, by the court. It is not worth trying to `get by it`, there is always someone who will report you, Also councillors and planning officers go on Yahoo!

Answer 6

depends on the cavity for the best insulating i would go for is 50mm polystyrene and 150mm Fiberglas wool

Answer 7

best is( king span )i used 100ml thick when we done garage and the same in roof i got flat roof,sheets are about 6feet x8ft

Answer 8

you could use poly board it has 2 inches of polistereen 12mm plaster board it can be fixed with screws or dob /dab i have this in my house and it saves me a lot of money on heating bills =money well spent

Answer 9

Polystyrene (WIckes) or rockwool glass fibre!

Gf is better - start at bottom and work to top!