my mollies are dying & i'v only had them 4 2 day's help...?

Question

i reciently brought 3 pet mollie fish from my local pet stor. i took them home & put them in (arround) a 55 lieter fish tank & one of them has died allready (i got them on monday it is now wednessday) the other 2 are looking pritty bad aswell ( i think my pot belly is pregnate)... i have a heater in the tank & it is set to 25*c (i turned it down from 27*c) i have a live plant in there & also have a rock that they can squeeze under, or sit behind. oww i also have a pet fighting fish (male) in with them & they sometimes play with one & other. he is still really healthy (& prittyer than ever). i dont know what to do.... i was planing on getting some female fighter fish to put in there to (couse my other 3 tanks are full) i wanted to breed them but if the mollies are dying then they might to .........PLEASE HELP!!!!!

i know how to breed fighting fish (im not that dumb ) i allway's reaserch a fish & ask pet shops bout them first then i buy them..... & i did cycle my tank (i have had my betta in it for a week & i cycled the tank b4 that).....

& as i said my betta is looking really really healthy & beautiful so it carnt be the water (i think) plz dont b rude i really need healp.....

umm people ceep thinking the tank is a 5 litre & i just want u to know its a 55 litre... just to let u know

hey everyone i think i found out whats rong..... anoither one of my mollies died & the last one was on it's side just breathing .... so expecting the fish to die (i know im crule) i turned the water temperature back up & wen i woke up this morning , to my surprise the last LIVING fish was swimming arround looking verry happy.... i dont know what happened there but i think the mollies like the water to be arround 27*c not 25*c ....so yeah so far so good lets just see if he/she lives 4 a while. p.s thanks to those people who commented (not including the ones who cept saying to cycle my tank I ALLREADY HAVE!!!!) i have had paradice fish (which are still alive just in another tank) & a better in that tank toteling arround 2 months befor i put the mollies in.......ok thanks

Answer 1

For starters it sounds like you did not cycle your tank. Read this: http://bryce.t31g3n.googlepages.com/cyclinganaquarium

Secondly your tank is too small for mollies.

Answer 2

I'm sorry everyone is being so judgemental. I've a few suggestions:

1) Ok - sometimes fish are just crap quality. They are inbred or old or just unhealthy cause of the fish shop conditions. Not much you can do about this...

2) Did you introduce your own water gradually? It may be that the conditions in your tanks vary widely compared to the fish shop. I'd take a sample of your water into the fish shop and get them to test it. Also phone them and tell them your fish are dying... they shuold offer to replace the dead ones.

3) Have you checked the conditions in your tank? Maybe you're having a nitrogen spike (especially likely if you only had a fighting fish in your tank and then added three other fish). Use the testing kits you can buy.

If I were you then I'd do a 30% water change (with dechlorinator - but I bet you know that!) - although somepeople will suggest as much as 60%. It's up to you. Also look carefully for any sign of illness on the fish. You could always add some melafix - always useful if fish are mysteriously dying.

Editted to say:

Just because your Betta's looking healthy doesn't mean your water's fine. It might just mean he's either hardier than your mollies or used to your water conditions if they're off. Also, he may look ill tomorrow.... Please change your water.

Answer 3

A 5 liter tank is pretty small. You DONT have to cycle a tank for weeks, or even days to have fish in it. As long as you have a good filter and do regular water changes you wont have ammonia/nitrates etc. I buy 500 fish each week, and clean out 75 tanks each week to put them in, never cycling any of them. You can still buy a fish from a petstore, and put it into a tank you bought the same day. If your ph is fine, and you don't have ammonia, it could be lack of oxygen from an over crowded tank. Goldfish, guppies and bettas don't need airstones and why they can survive in just a bowl.
If your tank tests ok and its not over crowded, you may want to go look at the other mollies at the pet store, chances are they may have disease. Good luck

Answer 4

One of the reasons that your fish may be dying is because you did not allow your tank to go through the Nitrogen Cycle ("cycle" for short). This is the process in which the ammonia that comes from fish waste as well as decaying matter such as food is broken down by bacteria into nitrite and then into relatively harmless nitrate. Your tank must cycle for the health of your fish.

If your tank did cycle, it may be due to disease. Check for any anything on the fish such as white spots, stuff that looks like cotton, etc. Also look at its behavior such as flashing (fish rubbing up against decor) and/or erratic behavior.

Without further information form you, it is hard to say why your fish may be dying.

http://www.aquariumhelp.aliveinindy.com

I hope this helps

Answer 5

A Short Brief on the Nitrogen Cycle.


When you start a new aquarium it will go through what is called the nitrogen cycle.

The nitrogen cycle is a process which allows "good" bacteria to establish and multiple in the tank, thus breaking down the fish wastes.

Fish excrete ammonia as a waste product. Ammonia is highly toxic to fish and even small quantities in the water can kill your fish. The first bacteria that establish as part of the nitrogen cycle break down ammonia into a product called nitrites.

Nitrites are also toxic to your fish, but not nearly as toxic as ammonia is. As the nitrites start to rise in the tank the bacteria that feed on nitrites will start to multiply and consume the nitrites breaking them down into nitrates.

Nitrates are also toxic to fish, but only in very high quantities. The nitrates will continue to rise in your tank as long as you have fish and are feeding them. Water changes are used to reduce the nitrate levels.


How long does this process take?

Typically the nitrogen cycle takes between 4-6 weeks to complete. During this time it's recommended that you take samples of your tank water to the local fish store and ask them to test it for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. The test levels will progress as follows:


Stage 1:

Ammonia zero
Nitrites zero
Nitrates zero

Stage 2:

Ammonia starts to rise
Nitrites zero
Nitrates zero

Stage 3:
Ammonia continues to rise
Nitrites begin to rise
Nitrites zero

Stage 4:
Ammonia levels drop
Nitrites continue to rise
Nitrates begin to rise

Stage 5:
Ammonia: zero
Nitrites levels drop
Nitrates continue to rise

Stage 6:
Ammonia: Zero
Nitrites: Zero
Nitrates continue slow rise



Tips to reduce the time of the nitrogen cycle.

The easiest way to reduce or eliminate the nitrogen cycle is to use a filter from an established tank. This filter already has the bacteria needed to breakdown ammonia and nitrites. By using an established filter you essentially bypass the nitrogen cycle.

Another easy way to shorten the cycle is to use "seed" gravel from an established tank. Simply take a few cups of gravel from an established tank and add it directly into the new tank. This gravel will contain a starter of the bacteria needed. If you don't want to add the gravel to the tank because it is a different color/stone than your gravel you can simply put it into a nylon stocking or cheese cloth "bag" and drop it into the tank. Using this method can cut your cycle time by 50%.

Finally there are live cultures of bacteria such as Bio-Spira (available at http://www.fishstoretn.com ) which will seed your tank with the bacteria needed. This product can virtually eliminate the cycling process.



Stocking your tank during this period.

During the cycling process you want to stock your tank very lightly. This is because if you have too many fish the ammonia will build up faster than the bacteria can break it down and your fish will die. I recommend only 1 or 2 hardy fish such as mollies. You want a fish that can tolerate the fluctuating ammonia and nitrite levels during the cycling process. There are many fish which should be avoided during this process including all catfish and any scaleless fish such as loaches.



Feeding during the cycling process.

I recommend that you feed your fish only once per day, and only as much as they will eat in 5-10 seconds. You should net out any food left over after feeding to prevent it from breaking down into ammonia. Once the cycling process completes you can double the feedings to twice a day.



Water changes during the cycling process.

If done correctly your tank shouldn't need any water changes during the cycling process. However should you find that your ammonia or nitrite levels are dangerously high during the cycling process you should do an immediate 25-50% water change to lower those levels. Water changes during the cycling process can extend the time it takes for your tank to cycle. Once the tank has completed cycling you should start your weekly 10-25% water changes to lower the nitrates in the tank.

Answer 6

First off. Female bettas cannot go in with male bettas. Please do not ask how they breed. Look it up. It takes too long to explain.

Secondly, Did you setup the tank before buying fish, letting it sit fishless for a few weeks?

Answer 7

the mollies probably went into shock from the tank transfer especially if you canged the temp on them shortly after the tansfer. this can cause multiple illnesses.

Answer 8

if the one is pregnant then its a she u may have just had two boys and not enough girls that's how i lost one of my mollies

Answer 9

the ph? the nitrates? any thing can help them