i have horse hair and plaster walls and celling will it be easy to remove and put up newer dry wall products?

Question

also should i get the walls and celling check for aspestis

i was wondering because some of the walls are developing crask and are forming spaces between the celling and wall and in some rooms the celling is actualy looking like it is about to fall and in another the celing is damaged by water from the roof in one corner any help on this new info is helpfule thank you very much

Answer 1

If your existing plaster has asbestos, you'll have to contract out that portion of the project to a licensed asbestos abatement company. They will have the equipment and the knowledge on how to contain the asbestos so it doesn't get all over your house. They will also be able to dispose of it according to your local laws.

Once the plaster is removed, you'll have an opportunity to rework your plumbing, electrical, HVAC and insulation. You might even want to do something about your windows if they are not double pane glass.

Depending on the thickness of your plaster, you may need to add furring strips to your studs so that the surface of the drywall will be even with the edges of your existing door jambs, electrical boxes, and other hardware. Better yet, it may be a good idea to nail 3/8" plywood to the exterior studs to serve as a shear wall for improved earthquake resistance. Use 8d (penny) nails, spacing them 6" on the edges and 12" in the center of the plywood. However, if you have a stucco exterior, use screws instead of nails because the hammering would crack the stucco. Same thing for when you hang the drywall.

You're contemplating a major project, especially if you're thinking of doing the entire house. Besides all that I've mentioned, you've got the door casing, the baseboard, drywall priming with PVA primer, finish painting, and new carpet. It will take a few days.

Answer 2

Rather than remove the plaster and deal with all the dust and mess, why not just install dry wall over the existing plaster? You don't have to worry about asbestos because any existing would be encapsulated. All you would need to do is locate the existing framing, either 16" or 24" on center.

Answer 3

Given the age of the house I can say that the old plaster will come down with little difficulty though you will more than likely have to have an asbestos report filed with the building inspector's office. Call an experienced asbestos abatement company and ask about inspection etc.

With the walls down you'll be able to run new plumbing, electrical and HVAC with little difficulty and you can insulate the house with the walls empty. Is this a flip?

Exercise caution and wear a respirator.

Answer 4

What that home inspector forgot to tell you is that you can cover it. You can go over it with 3/8" or 1/2'" blue-board and then plaster. Depending on your budget you could elect to remove moldings or just go to them. A good plaster will make the job look great. You should be able to apply blue board yourself.

Good Luck
Moskie257

Answer 5

Yes, check for asbestos. It was commonly used in horsehair plaster. Do this before you begin tearing down the plaster to avoid distribution of the asbestos. You will most likely need a professional to assess the plaster. Follow his/her recommendations.

Answer 6

If the plaster is in good shape, why would you want to?
Remember, behind the plaster is lath, hundreds of separate little boards that also have to be stripped from the walls.
Just ask yourself; will it be worth all the effort?

Answer 7

you can use all-purpose or "hot" (45 minute mud, dries fast, so be careful,) mud to glue the Sheetrock to the walls it will last forever, and must use a chisel to remove it, (you can use a trough 3/16inch by 3/16 inch for light texture, up to 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch for very heavy texture. you should attach the Sheetrock with screws too, (2/12 inch or 3 inch gold or zinc grabbers, black ones will rust and run in high moisture areas like baths and kitchens) . studs are usually on 16 inch centers. use a saws-all, or a hammer to locate at least two studs to verify centers, stay away from outlets/light switches. disconnect all power to room for safety! (they did not use shields back in those days, if you can locate the wires you are safer). apply mud to back of rock, or wall, spread evenly. press Sheetrock to wall and wiggle or pound lightly to remove air pockets. screw into place. you can screw to the lathe, but it will not hold, and cracks may occor. contact me for more info. p.s. use 5/8 inch thick sheetrock on the ceiling, and i suggetst greenboard around high traffic and water areas

Answer 8

Why take off? Put new over the old. Just use longer screws.