You have a few good answers here already if you have "adhesive" (sticky-glue trap feeling) However the chemical process is actually very fast and easy just kinda messy.
I just wanted to put in my two cents because you said "Chisel Method" That leads me to wonder if maybe you are talking about a cement based thin-set mortar (usually grey or white) . If this is the case then up date this and I'll try to go into detail Good Luck
2007-01-07 02:33:10
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answer #1
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answered by texasfixit 3
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After removing and installing thousands of sq. ft. of tile I have questions. You state "adhesive"??? Is that in fact what's held the tile? Or might it be the proper tile mortar (thin set)?
If in fact it was mortar (Concrete type) then you can forget chemicals etc, as suggested, and get a floor scraper designed to attach to a broom type handle and expend the energy to chip out the old.
Certainly there are other paths you can take. You can install new subflooring over what exists.
Steven Wolf
(The Rev.)
2007-01-07 02:38:45
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answer #2
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answered by DIY Doc 7
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if your talking wall - slow and steady with a paint scraper and heat gun can help -- NEVER use flamable substaits on wall or floor as it gets sucked up into the think you working on - and it is in there for a good long time - it evaporates yes- but it still leaves residues that burn very quickly -
If your talking floor mortar--
1- pop all the loose tiles you can and then buy a thin set - self leveling floor compound that is mixed and poured over the floor and fills all bumps and levels the floor and at the same time gives you a new level floor- 1/4 inch added for the most part - to work over for your new floor-- MOST use tile again - but the new added height will be 1/4 to 1/2 + higher from original level of floor-- and in kitchens you need to watch that fridge height to get it fitting back into place. And need to watch existing counters -if they are not removed - they really do become fixed into place.
2 - thin set / self leveling floor right over tiles - ( I recommend number 1) - dry and move forward-- but this is the quicker- easier way- and most ways like that lead to future work- loose original area will crack of damage new flooring look and appearance.
2007-01-07 02:28:40
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answer #3
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answered by lonestar 2
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Are you speaking strictly of Adhesive? possibly on the face? OR Tile Mortar nonetheless linked to the decrease back of the tile? Adhesive could be detachable with products like "GOOF OFF" or different such designed for the purpose. Mortar removal won't be able to be performed by applying any potential so some distance presented. Rev. Steven
2016-12-12 06:04:16
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answer #4
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answered by fechter 4
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There are only two solutions that I have found.
1. Use a heat gun and a scraper. This will get the job done but it is still work.
2. I find it easier to purchase 1/4" substrate and put down a new floor. You can buy the 1/4 " material cheap. Cut to size and secure it to your old floor. This gives you a clean, level and flat surface to work from. The end result is great and you do not have to scrape.
Good Luck
2007-01-07 02:09:34
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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Pour over self leelling mortar and retile. It is less tiring than other methods. Forget chiselling (laborious) or torch. (Fire haz.)
2007-01-07 02:50:07
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answer #6
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answered by Nightrider 7
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They sell special scrapers that make it a little easier. There are no shortcuts that I know of, however.
2007-01-07 02:29:30
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answer #7
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answered by Anonymous
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heat gun will help or you can use a alcohol Base cleaner or if it is to hard you can use a angle grinder with a smooth sandpaper disk on.
2007-01-07 02:06:44
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answer #8
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answered by tazdevil007au 3
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Heat Gun or torch
2007-01-07 02:00:58
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answer #9
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answered by Boston Bluefish 6
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yes
2007-01-07 02:00:15
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answer #10
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answered by Anonymous
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