how to install electric service for a hot-tub?

Question

what size wire do I use? do I need a disconnect box located close to the hot-tud?

Answer 1

really you should leave this to a pro, but i will try to answer as best i can with the little infomation given.

The size of the wire depends on a number of factors, the current, whether it is 110 or 220, the rate of draw at full use, and so forth. yes, a disconnect convienent to the tub should be used, but far enough away so you are NOT in the water or its splashes when turning it off or on. i would imagine that you will need at the least number 8 gauge wire. always use stranded wire rather than solid, it heats up less can can handle more current than solid wire. the wire should be encased in schedule 80 plastic conduit if inside, schedule 40 if outside. you might have to use 4 gauge or even larger, without knowing the max amps it will draw i cannot say for sure. use a GFI breaker on the circuit please. if in doubt go with a larger gauge wire than you think, rather than smaller (they smaller the number the larger the actual wire...why, i dont know for sure.) there should be some kind of instructions or a manual or something with it, that tells you what you need if you got it new. if there is any doubt at all, call a pro, or at least check with the manufacturer of it for their reccomendations. As anyone knows, electricity and water are never a good mix, so be very careful how you do this. keep the breaker removed from the breaker panel until the very last thing. if you have to go back and make repairs, remove it again. better safe than sorry.

Answer 2

There are many kinds of hot tubs. I assume this is a portable type an therefore heated by electricity rather than gas. Some small versions only require a 120 Volt 20 amp circuit and can be plugged into the wall outlet.. You will know if this is the case because there will be a standard u-ground cord and plug on the spa. The larger sizes require 240 Volts and the amperage varies by model and size. You need to look on the name plate of the spa for the ampacity of the unit. The wire size is dictated by that number according to the National Electrical Code. 20 amps needs #12AWG wire , 30amps needs #10AWG wire, 31 - 50 amps needs #8AWG wire, 51 - 65amps needs #6AWG wire. You will need a NEMA 3 or 3R rated disconnect within sight of the hot tub. You will also need to have the wire connected to a circuit breaker that is rated for the ampacity listed on the name plate. I would recommend that you hire a professional electrician for this work. Using the wrong breaker or wire could cause overheating and fire. If you do this yourself, turn off the main circuit breaker in the panel before attempting to touch anything in the panel.

Answer 3

Topic: Electrical Wiring in the Home

expert: Bob Mossman
Date: 12/26/2004
Subject: wiring for a spa/hot tub
"You also need to find out how many amps this unit takes at 240 volts which I assume is the voltage you want it hooked up for since you get the most in the way of heat out of it to keep the water warm. Typically its 20, 30, 50 or 60 amps. The installation manual will tell you this information and if you need a 3 wire or 4 wire hook up. Some units require a neutral (white wire) connection and others don't. The manual will tell you all these things."

Answer 4

Most hot-tubs run on 50 Amps @ 240VAC and therefore the minimum size wire is #6. If the run from the main service panel is a long way then you'll need to go up in size to #4. Now regarding the disconnect box, it is always a good idea to have it near the hot-tub since it will need to be GFCI enabled.

Answer 5

The typical hot-tub will require either a 30A single-pole breaker (high-speed pump and heater will not run simultaneously) or a 50A double-pole breaker if all systems, heater-blower-pump, are to run at once. Both ground-faulted of course. The typical heat-pump with electric resistance back-up at 5 tons will require a 40A double-pole breaker. If no resistance heat is required (NG will provide back-up heat), that will need about 30A. Assuming both are double-pole breakers, you now are at 80A of load. Assuming the only other load is general household appliances, and you are cooking and making hot water with natural gas, 125A will be fine - especially given that your connected load (add up all the breakers) may be up to 125% of the main breaker rating. There are NEC calculations to determine this. Good luck with it. Your local utility will be able to give you your allowable connected load and also tell you what your average load has been over the years. But there should be no particular reason why you have to increase your service size based _only_ on what you have given us here.

Answer 6

dude just get a blue el out there