I have a clogged bathroom drainpipe. The sink trap is brand new, so i know the clog is somewhere down the line. A 30 foot snake did not solve the problem, but i fear it is not taking the right path in the pipe, the adjacent toilet and tub drains work. In the basement below the bathroom i see a complex of drain pipes, all connecting to the main drain. There are two or three cleanout plugs that I know are there for a reason, and i have had experience in using these plugs, but the system was PVC. This system is cast iron and maybe 40 years old. My question is this. What is involved in loosening and removing a cleanout plug in a cast iron system? Is it likely to be hopelessly rusted shut? Do I run the risk of cracking loose a soldered joint? Is this an effort that could get me into serious trouble? Looking forward to all the advice I can get............Tom.
2007-01-06 03:41:59 · 11 answers · asked by moteidorb 1 in Home & Garden ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
Many separate issues, I'll try to hit them all.
Cleaout plugs in cast iron are often next to impossible to remove. Once removed, it is often that the threads on both are rusted away. If so, there are rubber plugs that have a mechanism in them that expands the rubber to plug the hole. If you get the right size, they work fine.
You will not damage a solder joint in the main line. They are extremely strong and are not simply solder. That is not a concern.
You said the other drains in the room are fine, only one is bad. If that is true, it can NOT be the main line. How could it be???
Did the new trap ever work or did the problem start the minute you put it in? If immediate, you may have installed it wrong or something dropped into it while working on it.
How about removing the trap and put a bucket under the drain. Fill the sink with water and open the drain. Does it empty properly? If so, try snaking the pipe that the trap goes into. I doubt you will have to go over five feet to find the problem, if it is there.
If you still have not got it, where are the cleanout plugs located? Again, the symptoms that you described do not indicate a main line issue.
2007-01-06 12:54:24 · answer #1 · answered by DSM Handyman 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
From your description it sounds like most drains enter the main line directly below the fixture. If the toilet and tub work then there isn't going to be a main line clog and fighting with the cleanout plug isn't going to do anything.
If you have a new trap and you've snaked through it then you've snaked the trap arm (horizontal line form trap to vertical drain pipe) too. There's not much left except the vertical from the trap arm to the main. Sounds like the snake took a wrong turn up the vent? If the house is single story and the roof isn'treal steep then you could try snaking down the vent. Probably you should just try again under the sink - remove the trap and as much trap arm as you can and try hard to maneuver the snake to go down the vertical.
2007-01-06 04:28:47 · answer #2 · answered by Mike 5 · 1⤊ 0⤋
The chances of getting a plug out of a cast iron fitting without ruining the plug are somewhere between never and NEVER. The procedure is to drill/chisel them out without destroying the female threads and put a new one in place when you are done. Your 30 foot snake must have taken a wrong turn as the plug has pretty much got to be within that distance of the sink. Did you remove the trap and start the snake in the correct direction under the sink?
2007-01-06 03:50:18 · answer #3 · answered by DelK 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
A new sink trap? Did the problem start right after you installed the new trap? Do you hear gurgling in the system . Could be trapped air. Is the sink vented. You can buy venting kit at a home center.
Just a thought........I'd hate to see you go through some nasty repairs without checking out the easy fixes first.
Best of luck
2007-01-06 04:04:45 · answer #4 · answered by ken b 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
The coverage company is responsible. hire a legal expert, do not comprehend what variety? Tort or contract legal expert? besides the shown fact that, issues you're able to do interior the intervening time: a million) commence logging all time neglected from artwork to handle the challenge 2) take fairly some photos 3) shop/ reproduction all information/ receipts/ place of work work 4) do not subject relating to the hot plumber... record a grievance against the previous plumber so no one else has to go through 5) take fairly some photos (emphasis) 6) commence preserving a tally on all expenses
2016-10-30 04:09:23 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
One thing you can try before replacing pipe is to remove the tub overflow cap. Take a rag and wet it, then stick it in the hole where the overflow cap was and hold it in place. Use your other hand and plunge the drian several times. I've used this method a lot and cleared some pretty nasty drains.
2007-01-06 04:53:16 · answer #6 · answered by Thunderhawk 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
My suggestion is to hire a leak locator or plumber with a camera they can send down to inspect the lines. A 40 year old cast iron line can rust through and collapse.
2007-01-06 03:45:00 · answer #7 · answered by Ben R 5 · 0⤊ 2⤋
if it's only a sink, try a 3/8 rod and make sure it goes down instead of up.
2007-01-06 11:33:34 · answer #8 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
I agree with michael p use the roof vent if it's accessible
2007-01-06 05:27:05 · answer #9 · answered by plumbinmonkey 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
cut the plug out if not sure how hire someone if not done correctly it will be expensive
2007-01-06 03:46:15 · answer #10 · answered by drain-king 2 · 0⤊ 1⤋