how do i winterise a outboard motor?

Question

my boat has been kept in harbour,need to fetch home for couple of months so 85hp outboard will be left dry and unused,i have heard of something called (fogging) what is this and how do i do it?is there anything else that i need to do before storing boat?boat has done a lot of hours running in saltwater out of whitby last 6 months.

Answer 1

Above, all great answers and advice, you may need "Flushing" or Rabbit ears" to put on the motor to flush out the salt deposits, you did'nt say what year motor, newer ones have a flushing connection built in to accept the garden hose, Turn on hose water first, all the way, start motor, flush with engine running (make sure that water is coming out of the "tell tail".on the motor, if not SHUT DOWN MOTOR, and re-adjust the "EARS", or you may overheat). Get a can of "FOGGER" (two types, one with a hose, and one with a red tip like on a can of WD-40, depending on if it's a newer motor or not, older motors use the red tip type can of fogger) (Marine store) and remove the air intake for the carburatures (newer engines have a port to connect the fogging hose to) . Disconnect fuel line (Get rid of old fuel as stated above, and use it in the lawn mower) let the engine run a few seconds and warm up to operating temp (it should be there from flushing), and then shoot in the "FOGGING CAN" right into the carbs (all of them) unless it is a hose connection, then just press the button after hooking up to the fogging port. The idea is to have the boat run out of fuel while injecting fogging can contents, the boat is running out of gas, and the fogger (light oil) is keeping it running, it will smoke like Hell but, thats OK, (thats why is called fogger) keep spraying until really smokey (your neighbors will love you), then shut down the motor, and you're done, this drives water out, and lubricates the piston and cylinder, making spring start up easy, put back air cover on carbs (some folks unscrew the spark plugs and put in cylinder as well, my school of though is that it already went through the combustion chamber so this is not neccesary (in my opinion), Marine Grease all "zirk" fittings (Grease nipples) on the tilt tube, and pivot tube on the motor (They are obvious) neglecting to do this will cause "LOCK UP" next season due to salt getting in there from last season, it's easy, just a few shots of grease from a grease gun, get the gun, it's $8 and you'll use it again. You may also do the lower unit now, or wait until the begining of next season. The water pump must be changed no less that once every two years, it's the weakest link on an outboard motor, store engine in running position on the transom to drain any water left in the heads out.

Answer 2

Jim seems to have an extremely sturdy answer. I extremely have purely long gone over my outboard motor and that i might upload that it purely relies upon on the place you're storing it to 3 quantity. The gas stabilizer circulated by using the gas device is a no-brainer. there is likewise gas dryer. How approximately your battery? those go undesirable too from purely sitting there. The plates can grow to be coated and non conductive and the boat's device can draw it down. The flush, fill, and drain plugs interior the outboard can freeze up and can desire to be drilled out extraordinarily if the steel of the transmission case would not like the steel interior the screws or the motor has been rebuilt and painted over. changing out the decrease kit oil interior the foot is rather easy to do away with previous watered down oil. you will possibly desire to empty the gas waft and lines and spray the carb and plugs with carb purifier until now and after iciness. relies upon on the type and variety of motor you have as to what all you could or might desire to do. many things are wide-spread, some small issues are unique to that motor. optimistically all this might help.

Answer 3

Most of the answers have the right idea. Running the engine (fogging) sounds a bit odd to me, if the engine is producing thick smoke then that means there will be unburnt oil left in the shape of carbon left in the cylinder. Carbon is a swine to get rid of unless you remove the cylinder head to scrape it off. When the engine is run the next season the carbon (soot) will tend to accumilate and build up.
I own a lightweight seagull out-board and for every winter layup I hang the engine in a barrel of fresh water and run it for about 20 mins. This gets all the salt out of the engine. I then drain the water out of the shaft and pump. Take out the spark plug, clean and leave it wraped up for the winter. All of the outside of the out-board are wiped down with an oily rag. All threads are greased and the fuel tank is emptied and the cap left off so the remaining fuel vaporises leaving the tank dry. Points (if they have them) are gapped and sprayed with WD40 as is all other electrical equipment. A shot of engine oil (about a teaspoon full) is put down the spark plug hole and the engine turned over to coat the piston rings. This prevents them from corroding to the bore. Finaly the engine is wrapped with a couple of layers of old sheets and stored in a cool dry place ready for the next season.
That all there is to it really.
The same rules apply to all other outboards and inboards if the boat is out of water for the winter.
Great sailing around Whitby.
Used to live in Marske many years ago.

Answer 4

As above, but I'd take the chance to give it a good service too, such as cleaning out the carb and fuel system and doing the lubricant in the gearbox. Leave the water drain out if you have one on the transmission leg. Oh, and get rid of any fuel you have, it'll be stale by next season.

You could also spray the whole thing with WD40

Answer 5

remember to flush out the cooling water circuit with fresh water because it is almost certainly full of salt deposits. Flush it through with a hose.

I'd also remove the plug, scoot some WD40 into the upper cylinder and replace the plug. Call me old fashioned if you like.

You might want to check the transom clamps and give them a light coating of grease too.

Answer 6

Last long answer is spot on, except as I was injecting the fogging I also used to, at the last second, run neat anti-freeze through the cooling system as it prevents corrosion and also any pockets of liquid left in the cooling system won't freeze in the winter.

Answer 7

Most importantly as above, flush out the cooling circuit. Add some de-scaler such as Fernox. It will help remove the salt deposits.

Answer 8

put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank and empty all posible water cause once it freezes the hull will bulge and may crack