Direct to Stud Tub Surround?

Question

I want to install a direct to stud tub surround. I'm not removing the drywall from tub to ceiling, only as high as the tile - leaving approx. 2ft of drywall. Once I remove the tile/drywall, can I slide the lip of the surround under the remaining drywall, or do I remove enough drywall so the lip is exposed and then cover the lip with drywall, mud, and tape? I hope that makes sense.

Answer 1

Direct to stud wall surrounds need two things: to be in direct contact with the studs, and usually need to interconnect with the other wall pieces. The back goes on first, then the sides. Each piece makes contact with the tub in a downward motion, thus you need at least 8" to 12" of room above for this sliding down to happen. Drywall is quite easy. I would leave the ceiling alone, clear all three walls, then drywall over the tabs of the wallsets completely.

Answer 2

Certainly some of it makes sense, no offense. I've redone more bathrooms than anything else lately and wonder why you wish to go directly to the studs?
I disagree with answer number one, and for this cause. Why would you disrupt existing vaible drywall by cutting then replacing as a patch? Certainly you have to allow enough space to install.

You don't state the nature or substance of the "surround"

Is it molded fiberglass or PVC thick enough to remain sturdy? OR is it the thin plastic molded thickness that so many are?

Again I'll go back to the Why question. The walls suroounding a tub/shower area should have some concrete backer board, and I don't use "green board" any more. Is it that you need an extra inch of space in the area? Actually I'd probably consider repalcing whatever substance you use, all the way to the ceiling. You'll already have mess and disposal to concern with, why not re-do the entire area in a smooth flow,,,NEW.

I'd be happy to get with this through e mail, for some more detail and sharing.

Steven Wolf
(The Rev.)

Answer 3

If this is a 1 piece tub & shower unit, you can mount directly to the studs, or over whatever wall board is there. You couldn't slip 3 sides under the wall board, all at the same time. You could possibly slide under the back wall, but the sheetrock on the ends would have to be taken up higher. Why try and fight it, just take out a little more sheetrock , then replace it down to the tub. Your tiles will cover the lip of the tub surround, so that water can't get back into the walls.

Answer 4

may I ask a question? we are in the midst of a bathroom and kitchen reno ,and are going bonkers with all the products out there.
here is our dilemma~we have had a couple of companies come out and give us quotes on acrylic overlay with surround. wicked expensive..
we have a home that is 55 yrs old and a cast iron tub.. not freestanding in an alcove..we had a friend slap on a surround over tile probably 10 years ago,but now we are changing colors,the rub is a beige/tan color and we want white..
the new tubs cast iron are made in china, and acrylic ones dont really hold up.. that being said.. if we had a reputable company reglaze it to white, would it be possible...to tear walls out around it for a surround to stud with the existing tub? does that sound unresonable? or a pain in the butt..

Answer 5

why? why not just remove the tiles and leave the the old drywall up? all you need to do is crack the old tiles with a hammer, not drive a hole through the drywall, and then with a flat bar pry them off like a shovel under snow. now the surround will have support under it and be warmer too. to do what you are thinking of doing might set the surround back too far to the lip of the tub. with the thickness of the drywall 1/2", and the tile 1/4" , the mud and adhesive 1/8" those studs are further back than you think!! check the direction's for the surround first, none that i have used have been designed to go directly on the studs. unless you have severe water damaged drywall and even then i'd replace it. read the insulation instructions before you go too far. good luck.

Answer 6

I would recommend using water-resistant drywall. You could than fasten the tub directly to the studs through that. Do you have Tyvek on the outside wall or another vapor barrier? If so, that should be good enough. I would also recommend using closed-cell insulation like spray foam to insulate the walls. It is much more resistant to water than fiberglass or cellulose. You could than adhere cement board to that drywall and do your tile. Good luck!

Answer 7

You have to take at least 8" extra dry wall above the lip. Some wall systems slip into knotches and you'll have to have room to go up & down.
Did you get the wall surround? is it by sterling?

Answer 8

THE TUB SURROUND GOES DIRECT TO THE SHEETROCK AND OR DURAROCK, USING A GLUE CAULK SPREAD ON THE BACK SURFACE.
THE SURROUND PACKAGE COMES WITH A TRIM HARDWARE THAT GOES AROUND THE EDGE AND THEN USE TUB AND SHOWER CAULK