i have a hardwood floor in my house what do i need to do too put ceramic tile down?

Answer 1

First, I'd prefer hardwood over tile, except in wet areas like kitchens an baths. But you do what you want.

Second, and this is very important, never, ever install tile directly over hardwood. Maybe I'm misunderstanding some people, but it seems some people are implying it is ok to install directly on hardwood. If I'm misunderstanding, I'm sorry. Hardwood isn't dimensionally stable enough to be used as a substrate. A substrate is simply the material you set tile on. Hardwood will expand and contract and within a year or so, you will have tile coming up. If you want another opinion, please call a tile store or contractor. The proper substrate will be 1-1/8” thick, with the subfloor. Any thinner and you risk loose or crack tile or grout, due to deflection.

The first thing I'd do is remove the hardwood. While you can install a suitable substrate over the wood, you are now having a height problem. If you are talking about 3/4" hardwood, you are now raising the floor another 5/8" to 1" depending on tile. If it is laminate floor, I wouldn't trust tile over the floating floor. After removing the floor, clean up the floor. Watch for humps from the subfloor, which you may have to sand down. Then there are several suitable substrates. The easiest, in my opinion, is fiberrock or hardibacker. It cuts like drywall and tile bonds well enough for residential applications. A step up is concrete board. It is much harder to work with, heavier, and cutting is messy, even with just scoring, and if you cut with a diamond blade, it is very messy. But in my opinion tile bonds better to concrete board the fiberrock. There are other things like Ditra-Mat and Map-Lath, but they are expensive, and aren't as easy to install as the manufacturers claim. But then they are the best substrate, that tile floor will be there forever. Whatever you use, look up the manufacturers installation specs on there website. And then install it as they say. If you don't, and you have a problem, even it isn't your fault, someone can point to underlayment and say it was not installed correctly, and therefore it isn't my problem.

Another thing, don't use a mastic. As someone said, mastic is for walls. A latex modified mortar is best. And if you can find it, I highly recommend, and usually don't recommend a specific brand, but use TEC. The best mortar I have used, hand down. Another brand will be fine, but here's the math. For 300 sq.ft of tile you will use about four bags. If the cheaper brand is $5 cheaper, wow, you saved $20. Twenty bucks for better thinset is well worth the money, trust me.

But above all, hardwood is not a suitable substrate. Just search "tile over hardwood"

Answer 2

The closest to the correct answer so far is from - Wood42ras. However, there are other options to his procedures. Your main concern on a wood floor is the flex in the floor...this is why "durock" and other boards are used alot in tile installs on wood floors. But, if your floor joists are 16" on center, and you have at least 1 1/4" thickness subfloor (Your wood floor plus maybe a plywood underlayment below that) Then you can go directly over the wood flooring. As long as it's smooth, level, adhered well, and the tile mortar will adhere to the surface (meaning-no wax, finish, etc.). You don't want any movement under the tile whatsoever. Also, (my recommendation) you can use a 1/4" underlayment - called "Hardibacker or Hardiboard" This board provides as much stiffness to the floor as 1/2" Durock with only half the thickness. Another note is that when putting an underlayment such as "Hardibacker" or "Durock" down, the correct installation method is to put thinset under the board (just like you do the tile), then screw it to the floor, then install your tile. Everything else was pretty much on target.

Answer 3

Damn there is a lot of miss information given out....So let me tell you what you are facing....Yes...you have to install Dura-rock...a concrete board, use 1/2...the 1/4 or 3/8 is more for walls...If the hard woodfloor is level with no bumps or raised area then things go good...if not then you have to make it that way either by sanding or removing the areas...After the dura-rock is all screwed down then comes the fun part....Use thin-set...not mastic...Mastic is for walls...don't use that pre-mixed thin set it dosen't live up to what the producers say it will.....then layout your floor for the tile design that you want...if you are just laying the tile straight to the walls then start in the center of the room and work out....this will make all the boarder tile equal...then comes the mixing the thin-set...make it to the consistancy of oatmeal...use a 1/2 trowel...what is the width of the grout line....this is important....There is something that you need to keep in mind...if you choose to go over the wood floor (i wouldn't,I love hardwood floors) with the dura rock and tile you will raise your floor over an inch and that means your doors will probley have to be cut.....let your tile cure at least 8 hours, best 24 hrs, before you grout....now as for tools...a certain amount of special tools to include a cutter...Some might say that after all this and the tools I need...hmmmm hire a professional for the best job because this is something you will be walking on for a long time and if it is not level and done right you will not like it...

Answer 4

I agree with the first two answers. You might in to something you would regret later. Can you sand your wood down and stain it? You can have a shining finish to put in after stain. I have to have a whole bottom floor ceramic tiles because this house is built in the slap. I couldn’t have anything else except a cement floor. I think you might want to keep your wood, to save you all those hard work and money. Wood floor is the best floor if it could be fix.
Here is the answer if you still want to do it.
1. Go to the hardware store to ask them what do you need.
2. Tear up or ripping of your wood floor.
3. Put down your ceramic floor in the steps that you have learned from your researching and plan. Good luck to you.

Answer 5

Are you crazy? Is the hardwood floor in bad shape or just scratched up? Is this hardwood floor in the bathroom? If your answers are "no" them I would leave it. If it's scratched up I would sand it and re-surface it. If your heart set on put down the tile, them I would, pull up the floor , carefully to re-sell the wood to fund your tile floor materials. Real hardwood floor sell (with installation) for about $7 - $15 per sq ft (installed), the tile your putting down, would cost anywhere from $2-$5 per sq ft Installed. Good luck and research every option.

Answer 6

I wouldn't put tile over hardwood if I had the choice, I'd refinish the hardwood.

I help my brother in law (a professional tile setter).. it's not as hard as people make it out to be. In fact doing tile in my view is 10x easier then some of the laminate crap I've laid.

Answer 7

liberty has answered your Question perfectly - great job- you have multiple layers and strength already on your floor- check for creaks or loose spots and screw the floor down if need be - if you have can see the studs fron the floor below your golden and you can work with another to get the squeeks out beforehand- do not overwork yourself for easy installs - you need to know that once tile is picked - then it will be hell to go back - choose wisely- old hardwood can be ugly and spotty when refinished- and refinishing is not always the answer - take a few days to think - then act- and love your choice regardless

Answer 8

whats wrong w/the hardwood floor,sure beats ceramic tile. thats my opinion. but to do your job right ,you should really remove your wood flooring. then put down a concrete bd.. you should use the concrete bd to keep away from expanision.if you go over your hardwood flooring you will raise your floor level to high. hope you make a good choice. good luck itch

Answer 9

Personally, I also love hard wood floors but they're yours and you can do what you want.

If you cover the existing floor with 3/8" plywood and nail it every 8" you can tile on that. No problem!

Be sure the surface is flat without any divits or bumps.

Answer 10

Put down a layer of a product called Dura Rock. It is cement board. it comes in 3X5 sheets. Screw it down with either drywall screws or special dura Rock screws. This will give you a good surface to adhere the mortar to.