lambada / co2 sensor?

Question

after experiancing juddering problems with my car i went and had an electronic engine management check and was told to change the engine co2 sensor which i did, but the problem still persists any suggestions

Answer 1

The Lambda sensor is the sensible cheap place to start, without knowing the exact type of judering it is difficult to comment , but make sure it is not clutch or soggy or broken engine mountings the next step is identify whether one of more injectors is playing up if it is Multi point otherwise if there is no damage on the engine bay wiring loom it looks like a black box, £100 from a breaker or an arm a leg and six weeks wait from a dealer, then it might not fix it. Scrapping the car may be an option. Old Ernie would fit an SU carburettor off a Morris, and stick one of his pre 1990 "Cherished" number plates on it and chuck the Cat and Lambda sensor and the associated useless ironmongery away.

Answer 2

i know this may sound completely off track but where do you buy your fuel?

ive had this trouble on two cars, and both times it was because i was using supermarket fuel (tesco's etc). These fuels do not contain the same additives and can block up an engine making it run rough.

try using a fuel treatment such as slick 50 (you can purchase this from most decent stations) and use the higher rated fuel for a while to flush your tank out, and then afterwards in every third tank just to give the engine a clean through.

also a long drive will effectively clear away any cobwebs, i did a run from london to cornwall and back in my old car and it ran completely different afterwards (im not suggesting you have to go this far but it was just an example)

hope it works out, there really is a big difference between supermarket fuel and that from shell and texaco (you will notice a better mpg too).

regards

p.s if they tell you to get more lambada sensors changed, ask for them to be cleaned first as this may do the trick

Answer 3

Hi there,
When someone reads dtc's nowadays it's very easy to assume that the code shown is the cause.
The front O2 sensor is telling you that the emissions passing it are not causing it to send the correct signal/voltage to the ecm. It's best to get the people to read live data and the voltage should switch quickly between 0.3 and 1.0 volts when on high speed idle at around 2000-2500rpm, if the data shows a low or high voltage, its fuelling and this starts at the temp sensor, If the readings are 0 or over 2.5volts, its usually wiring or even the fuse blown, yes fuse blown.
So take it back to someone who knows how to read and interpret the data properly.
PS dtc = detectable trouble code
02 sensors are normally made from ceramic zirconia, zirconia generates voltage from approx 1V in richer conditions to 0V in leaner conditions.
Sorry to be too techy but it might help.
Cheers

Answer 4

Did you have the computer re - set after you fitted the new sensor ?
after you refit - fit certain component`s to a car ( not all ) require the computer to be re - set again !
And there is also the possibility that the new sensor could still be a faulty one ( just because it is new does`nt mean it is working ok )
I would try getting the computer re - set !

Answer 5

it could be the coolant temp sensor at fault.
that will put exessive fuel into the cylinder at all times. causing a judder and possible missfire