How can i remove sections from an interior load bearing wall without damage to adjacent ceilings?

Question

i want to remove an 8' section of a 1st floor interior load bearing wall of a 2 story house with a concrete floor slab. how do I know if the floor slab will take the more concentrated loads from the wall next to the opening? any hints to support and remove the section of the wall? i expect to use 2-2x12's as a header over the opening to catch the ceiling joists, supported by 3-2x4 jack studs on each end. temporary supports will be 4x6 headers on 2-2x6 columns each end, about 2 feet out from the existing wall. ceiling joists are running perpendicular to the load bearing wall. I have a fair amout of experience in home repairs, etc.

Answer 1

I would suggest NOT using a temporary "header" as it could "kick out" and is relatively unstable. Instead, I would suggest laying a 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 flat against the ceiling and placing a temporary stud under each joist. Cut them 1/8 to 1/4 inch long and set the bottom on a floor sill. The extra length will wedge them in place so massive nailing is not needed. The down side is that this will cause localized damage to your existing ceiling finish. Nothing a little drywall mud can easily fix. You will most likely have to use your hammer to bump the top into place.

You may want to let a little more than 2 feet- 4 feet is probably good since you will be doing this on each side of the wall- in effect giving 2 temporarys for each permanent stud.

The floor slab is most likely a guess- unless you want to core drill to determine thickness and reinforcement in there and have a calculation done by a structural engineer. My gut feeling is that it will be okay. I would nail you permanent header supports into the adjacent stud and add some 45 cross bracing to tie it into the next 1 or 2 studs to help spread the load on to the floor.


Other than that one suggestion, it sounds like you have it under control.

One last suggestion because I left my building code at the office and dont have it at home. Please double check the double 2 x 12 permanent header- it sounds good sitting here but I always like to double check such things.

Answer 2

You seem to have the project figured out okay, and you have some excellent suggestions thus far. But to specifically address your foundation concerns and give you peace of mind, if the interior wall is indeed a load-bearing partition it will already have a concrete footing below it. To establish this as fact, remove the shoe mold and base board along the wall in question and take a hammer drill with a 1/4" bit (long bit -- 8" min.) and drill alongside the sole plate. A typical slab is about 4" thick, so if you continue to hit concrete well past the 4" depth mark, then you probably have the footing you're desiring. If you do hit dirt after 4" inches then you don't. This method allows the re-assembly of your base boards is the project is a no go.

Answer 3

If you are certain that it is a load bearing wall it is most likely that the concrete floor is poured thick under this wall. i doubt that you will punch the jack studs through, are the upstairs walls also bearing on this section and is there a doorway that presents a point load on the span. If so without exact load specs I would be inclined to use a doubled microlam instead, others suggestions about using diagonals inside the remaining wall sections is a good one. IF it is a solid wall or no wall above it it would not be necessary to temporarily let the structure hold itself without any other bracing while the wall opening is made be sure there is no heavy furniture or someone running through the house while you do it and have the replacement parts ready to set immediately. It is surprising what can be taken away before a structure begins to sag. I routinely replace beams with steel I beams for clear span flush ceiling basements. we will remove large sections of center beams without support accept for point loads

Answer 4

You need to check how thick the concrete is. Also consider a plate under your jack studs. a continuous plate into the wall would be better than just under the jacks. But first I would check the concrete. I made a 14' opening in my house and used a double LVL header but it sits on the foundation wall so it was no problem. also some load bearing walls carry alot of weight some do not so I would consider that as well. Good luck.

Answer 5

Concrete Load Bearing Wall

Answer 6

ok is always best to see the problem 1st tho will try to help
if u pull down a load bearing wall it always best to use acro's which go from the floor to the ceiling to act as a temporary support u will need 2 each side of ur expected opening
when u take out a supporting wall u must put a supporting beam across the ceiling to carry the load into the remaining walls either side these can be steel, concrete or solid wooden lintels
DO NOT USE STANDARD PINE OR SPRUCE
you put the acro's in place 1st then starting at the top remove the section of wall u wish to remove then put in the lintel and cement in place once dry remove the acro's and make good

Answer 7

you seem to have this project under control. The only tip that I have is that for every stud you remove you put back under the header. For example if you remove 8 studs put 4 on each side.
Good luck and don't forget to put a piece of half inch plywood between your 2 x 12's so that you will have 3 1/2 inches

Moskie257

Answer 8

Two feet would not be too tough, but eight feet is a lot. Add to it the fact that it is a two story house. I would want an engineer to help with this.

I would suggest something to spread the load on the concrete floor. Perhaps some square 3/8" metal plates.

Answer 9

To be safe you should consult a construction engineer

Answer 10

I was here on Yahoo Answers for something unrelated, then this question was shown on the sidebar...