surveyors-do i need to do anything about a front elevation wall thats bowing?

Question

there is a gap of around an inch inside at the corners, the building was built around 1700 and three storeys, single brick i think. i had a survey 7 yrs ago when i bought it and it said because the vbuilding next door had wall ties i could strap the joists to the wall but when i looked this seemed to have bbeen done some time ago.

sorry you are correct its 9 inches.
the strapping thats been done is strapping to the joists only.
the gaps of 1 inch are inside on the 2nd floor on both corners, where the front wall meets the side walls.
thanks for your help so far

Answer 1

the obviouse sign of the strapping being done "is metal plates front and rear of the property , aprox 9inch dia (round or square)
between the plates (internally) will be rods , attached to the plates and joists!!!! if not there get the work carried out asap!!

Answer 2

This depends on a few factors. 1st, Location of your building and the front elevation wall. 2nd, has a building/home inspector taken a look? 3rd, what is your average annual rainfall, is there any runoff of the water into the watertable or leechfield or city stormdrains away from the retaining wall? 4th, w/o seeing the wall and the environment that it's built in, why did the previous surveyor say to strap the wall joists to an adjacent wall ties? Would they be strong enough to hold the gravity-weight of the elevation wall for a few years or is this a temporary fix until your finaces would be strong enough to actually allow for some earthwork and masonary skills?

If the bowing is more than 2 to 5 degrees away from plumb, I would invesitgate it. How to determine plumb old school style...take a weight of 1lbs or more, tie a string to it. Hang it so that it free floats. This is your plumb line. Have someone hold it so that it's vertical to the ground and from a distance of 10 feet or greater, judge if its within the tolerance of 2 to 5 degrees. This is a layman's plumb. If you feel that it's beyond the tolerance, and you have some answers to my foremost questions, then spend the money to have it evaluated by a professional before it gets to the point where the wall slides or worse and then you have a bigger problem on hand.

Answer 3

as a builder myself your question does not make a lot of sense..where is this gap? is it a gap or is it a crack ..single brick you think ? measure the width of wall at window reveals ..if house is 1700 ..it will not have a cavity ..but the walls should be at least nine inches thick .. if only single skin ..did your surveyor point this out to you ..he should have done ..if not i would sue him .. how did you get a mortgage on it .to check for movement ..get a straight edge at least 6 feet long ,,hold vertically on wall with a spirit level held on side of straight edge ..is it out of plumb ...move straight edge out till level ..measure gap ..if more than an inch ..mmm ..to check wall for bulge .. get a piece of wood ..2 by 2 is fine ..lenght unimportant..with a Friend at one end of wall with a block of wood in one hand and a length of string in the other ..you at other end with block of wood held vertically..you get the other end of string and pull it tight across the length of wall..is the gap equal? or does it touch.. or nearly touch ..if it does mmmm ..check and come back for next step

Answer 4

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Answer 5

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