If the water is not running into the overflow pipe[because the valve doesn't shut off], you have to purchase an original equipment flapper, if it's in the overflow, change the valve to a fluidmaster. Respond if you need more detail. Fluidmaster also makes a superflapper that is better.
2006-12-26 14:30:35
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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orlandojo, stop. the trouble is where the flapper seats! over time water can carve rock canyons. if it can do that, the lil' ol piece of plastic is no match for it. you need to replace the whole seat that the flapper shuts against, for about $20.00. it will involve removing the tank of the toilet from the base, but is fairly straight forward. while you have it that far apart consider replacing the fill system. that should only run you another $15.00, and you won't have to touch the thing again for 20 more years. get the new bolt kit that holds the tank to the base of the toilet $5.00, and for less than $50.00 you have rebuilt the thing for less than a plumbers house call. and you didn't have to take it up from the floor! the instructions come with the parts and are easy to follow, a screwdriver, pliers, and maybe a pair of channel locks is all you need. good luck and happy new year!!
2006-12-26 16:09:17
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answer #2
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answered by car dude 5
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All the people who answered have interesting responses. My first question would be-"How old is the toilet?" If you don't know, remove the tank lid, and flip it over. Inside the lid should be the manufacture date. That gives you a reasonable approximate age of the toilet. If it is pre 1991 to 1996, my suggestion is to replace the toilet. The reason for this is water conservation. Around 1991, the 1st generation 1.6 gal per flush toilets hit the market. They were just that, 1st generation, and had many problems. Then the 2nd generation came out, and some problems were fixed, but they had new problems. Now the problems have been fixed, and even some new designs have come out recently. As far as doing the job yourself, go right ahead, and try it. I would recommend having a phone number handy for a plumber, just in case, when you pull the old toilet, and the flange breaks, or the bolts won't unscrew, and you can't even get the toilet up. If you are just trying to fix the existing toilet, look at the money you are going to spend, versus the cost of a new toilet. For the guy who said put in a new one and forget about it for 20 years, doesn't understand anything about manmade materials. Everything you buy today, is designed to break. Why do you think they put all those replacement parts made out of plastic, in your toilet? Toilets from the 50's and 60's had brass valves and fittings, and would last 20 years, but not anymore. Almost every manufacturer has out sourced the building of their products overseas, to stay competitive. This means they have to skimp on quality also. As a master plumber, I go to school every year, to keep up with new products. I pay money to go to school, pay money every year to renew my license, and pay lots of money for insurance, just for the priviledge of performing plumbing work. It is a thankless job, one that is scorned by most people, who think they have read a book about plumbing, and now they are qualified to give out advice. The next time your water line breaks at 2am, or your main sewer backs up, and starts to back up in your bathtub, do me a favor and ask these people on here to come fix it for you!
2006-12-26 18:49:21
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answer #3
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answered by poppyman54 5
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A couple of good answers to your question--here is another--sometimes the pipe that runs water from the valve into the top of the overflow pipe is pushed in to far, and it causes a vacuum--in other words, the end of the pipe inside the overflow is below the water level in the tank, and it siphons out the water, this is the water that flows down around the rim--may be your problem--had a toilet that did just that Pulled up the pipe a half inch, problem solved.
2006-12-26 15:23:27
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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The first guys answer is the best in the list. The tank seal would have nothing to do with it, and a 5 year old child could replace a toilet if given direction (don't pay a plumber)
2006-12-26 14:05:34
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answer #5
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answered by Happy Killa Pants 2
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If you mean the overflow pipe. Your water level in the tank is too high, adjust the shutoff. if the flapper is still leaking, it could be the chain is being caught under it.
2006-12-26 14:01:30
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answer #6
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answered by T C 6
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I actually just had a plumber out a couple of weeks ago for this very problem! I needed a new toliet put in. Cost $65 to find out my problem. Probably would have been cheaper to just purchase a new one to begin with - what with the increased water bill & plumber fee.
2006-12-26 14:30:57
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answer #7
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answered by chey_one 3
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The flapper isn't creating a seal could be a chip or lime build up
2006-12-26 14:04:12
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answer #8
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answered by Larry m 6
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It's probably overfilling and running through the overfill. You have to readjust the water level in the tank with he bulb or the float.
2006-12-26 21:59:24
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answer #9
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answered by cowboydoc 7
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SO U REPLACED THE FLAPPER AND IT STILL LEAKS, YES?
YOU CHECKED SO IT DOES NOT OVERFLOW INTO THE FILL OVERFLOW TUBE, YES?
NEXT, YOU CHECKED THAT THERE IS NOT CHIP OR CRACK IN THE TANK DRAIN FITTING, YES?
THEN IF U DID ALL THAT AND IT IS STILL LEAKING, GET OUT THE PETROLEUM JELLY AND SMEAR IT ON THE FLAP SEAT AND THE LEAK SHOULD STOP, IT HAS FOR ME, LOVE IT.
IF IT STILL PERSIST, THEN BUY A NEW COMMODE.
2006-12-26 14:53:14
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answer #10
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answered by john t 4
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