u need a special valve lash tool for making those adjustments.
2006-12-25 13:29:48
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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I have repaired alot of Chevy engines in my time. I always adjusted them cold when I was building the motor or reinstalling pieces....less muss and fuss and less oil all over the place. The GM Manual says ( and I've been doing this for years ) is with the engine in the #1 firing position ( this can be determined by placing your fingers on the #1valve as the mark on the damper comes near the " O " mark on the crankcase front cover. If the valves are NOT moving then the engine is in the #1 firing position. If the valves move as the mark comes up to the timing tab then it's in the #6 firing position, and should be turned over 1 more time to reach the #1 position.) as just determined, the following valves may be adjusted.
V8- Exhaust- 1, 3, 4, 8
V8- Intake- 1, 2, 5, 7
Back out the adjusting nut ( 5/8's socket ) until lash is felt ( move or spin the push rod...if you can move it up or down or spin it easily..it's loose ) When play has been removed, turn adjusting nut in 1 full turn ( to center lifter plunger ) Use a piece of chalk to mark which valves you have adjusted to keep track ...hope I helped and sorry for the long dissertation.
2006-12-26 04:08:51
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answer #2
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answered by Anonymous
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definite it would be okay to easily replace out the lifters.. and re run the brake in technique returned... the way I even have constantly adjusted the lash is EOIC technique.. basically because of the fact the Exhaust starts to opens regulate the lash on the intake of the cylinder and basically as intake closes regulate the exhaust valve (it somewhat is after the motor has been run and the lifters are pumped up.).. that has constantly worked for me.. on my builds.. be beneficial and examine that not one of the frenzy rods are bent.. OH some circumstances an exhaust leak properly sound like a lose lifter.. basically a theory sturdy success tim
2016-10-28 08:54:33
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answer #3
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answered by ? 4
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Have engine running, back off (one valve at a time) till valve starts clicking and tighten a haft turn. You now should not hear that valve clicking. Proceed with the next 15 valves in the same manner.
2006-12-25 13:38:58
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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i own a shop,and you need to start it ,and let it warm up good ,then remove the valve covers on it and adjust each one until you hear a slight rattle,and the go about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn back in until it don't rattle anymore,you,ll hear a deep rumble sound from it when they are right,,once you do a few of them you,ll get used to the sound of it ,and how each cylinder should sound,you can also do this with the engine not running,,you,ll need a good repair manual for this,,but its done similar to this except its not running,,and both methods work well a good Haynes repair manual will help a lot with either method you choose to do,,good luck with it,hope this help,s.,,merry x-mas.
2006-12-25 13:48:35
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answer #5
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answered by dodge man 7
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need a special valve lash tool for making those adjustments.
2006-12-27 04:48:18
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answer #6
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answered by jerry 7
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there's a way of adjusting hydraulic valves without starting and running the engine... i forget the process but i will look for it. it's sooo easy too...
2006-12-25 15:03:50
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answer #7
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answered by Anonymous
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warm your engine,with one vavle cover off, using a 5/8 socket. ext,and rachet, back off each each rocker, you'll hear a tapping sound, at this point slowly tighten rocker until tapping stops. then turn it an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turns. do this on remaining vavles.
2006-12-25 14:40:31
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answer #8
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answered by DASH 5
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Maybe here?
2006-12-25 13:43:39
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answer #9
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answered by Anonymous
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