how do you care for a dwarf bunnyrabit?

Answer 1

like any other type of rabbit-
new water every day
food twice a day- 1 morning 1 night
clean cage every other day
feed hay once a week
good luck
ps i have a netherland dwarf rabbit named Cleopatra but we call her cleo

Answer 2

There isn't much difference or extra care involved with a Dwarf rabbit. The same basics, food, water and shelter apply.

Keep the toenails trimmed regularly. Check ears, nose and teeth routinely.

For more information on caring for a rabbit in general, visit the site linked below.

Answer 3

Dwarf rabbits need a reasonable sized cage and lots of hay for bedding.They do not like extreme cold nor do they like the heat. Their food requirements; hay carrots cauliflower rosepetals thistles dry bread pellets and plenty of fresh drinking water. They also need grass and exercise so they do not get bored.Their cage has to be cleaned out once a week.

Answer 4

Did the person you got the little bunny from not tell you? Go buy yourself a book or go to houserabbit.com

Answer 5

just like a normal bunny

Answer 6

The Zurich Animal Protecion Society provides some very useful general information specific to Dwarf Rabbits...

The dwarf rabbits live in groups under conditions close to nature, dig caves allowing them to retreat if they want to as well as for cub rearing, and mostly move around running and lolloping. They are very curious, scout out extensively their habitat and also need material like little trees and bushes where they can wear out their teeth.If they get the possibility for it, the dwarf rabbits, who have been bred from the wild rabbits over many generations, still live this behaviour pattern. The life expectancy of the dwarf rabbits is 8 to 10 years. It is, however, very important that they have the possibility to move a lot and live in a large enclosure. Don't keep dwarf rabbits! DThis advice is very urgent especially in those cases where pet ownership is only possible in a small cage in the apartment instead of a spacious enclosure in the open air. Keeping a dwarf rabbit alone in an individual cage borders on cruelty to animals!


Social behaviour
All the dwarf rabbits are gregarious animals. They need the contact to fellow species. It borders on cruelty to animals if one keeps just on single dwarf rabbit. Two bucks (males) get along together only during the first months of life. From the age of four months up the social ranking fights start. These can also lead to injuries. Two does (females), however, get along very well together if they grow up jointly from the very beginning. Couples always produce cubs over and over again. In order to avoid this, a castrated buck and a doe is ideal. They even lie close together and lick each other's head. A newcomer is being sniffed at intensively in order to find out whether he is welcome or not. A socialization with other pets is possible. Cats and dwarf rabbits may even become friends. If one wants to keep guinea pigs and dwarf rabbits together, there must be at least two animals of each species. The animals urgently need the fellow species so that they can communicate and feel well.


Behavioural disturbances
Most of the abnormal behaviour patterns, like for instance gnawing at grilles and gratings or biting the pet owners, are exclusively the result of keeping the animals in ways not appropriate to their species. The person who keeps dwarf rabbits too close together, possibly even without fellow species, locked up behind gratings, must not be surprised if the group animals who love to move and to communicate suffer, fall ill or develop behaviour disorder. Keeping single animals in individual cages cannot be accepted! If two does quarrel, it is advisable to integrate a castrated buck. Two bucks get along well together only during the first two months. Violent social ranking fights with injuries are not a behaviour disorder, but a normal social behaviour. Dwarf rabbits must like each other, too. It happens that new integrations require a lot of patience.


Man-Animal communication
Whoever would like to understand his dwarf rabbits, must know their body language, especially so because their vocalization is rare and in most cases almost not audible. Ears put back, head stretched forward and tail sticked out mean danger. The animal might bite at any time. If the animal squeezes up flat against the floor, he wants to take cover. Drumming with the hindlimbs are warning signals, a threatening gesture and signs of fear. Animals of the same species are thus warned and can disappear in their hiding place as quick as a flash. Standing up on their hindlimbs - for instance in the high grass - is a behaviour pattern which allows the animal to have a better overall view or to better sniff smells. It takes dwarf rabbits only little time to get used to the voice and the smell of a human being and then he is tamed within a very short time.

Animals "talk" to their fellow species by body posture, position of the tail, facial expression, vocalization and many more. If the human being has the position of companion and substiute for fellow species, then he must try to make up a little bit for the big deficit. The easiest way to do this is to talk calmly to his pets. Also dwarf rabbits are capable of learning and understand very quickly what words or the tone of voice want to say.


Undesirable behaviour
Dwarf rabbits should only be allowed to run free around the apartment under supervision, for they might get up to mischief by gnawing at carpets, wires and furniture and also could endanger themselves. In order to wear out their steadily regrowing incisor teeth, dwarf rabbits have the natural need to gnaw at everything. A wire made of tough synthetic material is an absolute point of attraction for them! Furthermore, for reasons of territorial behaviour the animals deposit their droppings and urine and can also have an accident as a result of rash fright reactions and getaway behaviour. The pet owner can, therefore, take preventive measures himself and avert bad happenings, if he detects an undesired behaviour.

Rabbit racing in the apartment? Admittedly, it is much fun to watch the quick little bunny hopping animals darting sideways and hastily running away. If this happens under supervision, there is nothing to be said against it, because free run is necessary. Nevertheless, possible dangers must be taken into consideration. The ideal thing would be to prepare a run-out yard for one's pets in the garden.


Mood barometer
A glance at the body posture tells already a lot. If the dwarf rabbit puts his ears back and pauses in a crouching posture, then he is frightened. If he stretches his head forward and sticks out his tail, again with his ears put back, he is ready to bite at once. In principle, also the dwarf rabbit should not be touched while eating or resting and one should let them have these quiet moments without disturbance. Also in the mating season and during the rearing period of the cubs special rules are valid.


Psychology of animals
The fact that the beautiful but not particularly economic dwarf and "sport" breeds are gaining ground shows that rabbit ownership has turned from a mere meat production into a hobby. We must not forget that also dwarf rabbits have, regardless of the type of use, the same needs for contact with fellow species, run-out yard, retreat possibilities etc. and that these needs are in the center of attention when keeping and looking after these pets.

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House Rabbit Society is a nonprofit rescue and education group. Below is some information from their website on general rabbit care:

Why a House Rabbit?
Perhaps you've just adopted your first rabbit, or maybe you already have a rabbit and would like more information to help you understand her better. The House Rabbit Society, a national nonprofit organization, recommends that you keep your rabbit in the house rather than outdoors. Rabbits are intelligent, social animals who need affection, and they can become wonderful companion animals if given a chance to interact with their human families.

The benefits of spay and neuter
Although most rabbits will use a litterbox, hormones may cause unneutered males and unspayed females to "mark territory." Spaying or neutering your rabbit improves litterbox habits, lessens chewing behavior, decreases territorial aggression, and gives your rabbit a happier, longer life. Have your rabbit neutered between ages 3 1/2 to 6 months, depending on sexual maturity, by an experienced rabbit veterinarian. For rabbits more than 2 years old, get a veterinary checkup first.

Housetraining
Rabbits may have free run of the home. However, it's best for most--and necessary for some--to start with a cage. To make cage time learning time, fasten a litterbox in the corner of the cage that your rabbit chooses for a "bathroom." As soon as he uses the box consistently, you can give him some freedom. Place one or more large litterboxes in corners of the running area outside the cage. Use only positive reinforcement (treats and praise)--never punishment.

Bunny-proofing
Bunny-proofing your home is part of living with a house rabbit. It is natural for rabbits to chew on furniture, rugs, drapes, and, most deadly of all, electrical cords. Cords must be concealed so that the rabbit cannot reach them. Exposed cords can be encased in vinyl tubing (found at hardware stores). By splitting the tubing lengthwise with a utility knife the cord can be pushed inside it. Give your rabbit enough attention, safe chewables, and toys, so that she is distracted from chewing furniture and rugs. A cardboard box stuffed with hay makes an inexpensive playbox. Young rabbits (under a year) are more inclined to mischief and require more confinement and/or bunny-proofing than mature rabbits.

House rabbits and other animals
House rabbits and indoor cats can get along fine, as do rabbits and well-mannered dogs. Dogs should be trained to respond to commands before being trusted with a free-running rabbit, and supervision is needed to control a dog's playful impulses (this is especially true for puppies). Adding a second rabbit is easiest if the rabbits are neutered adults of opposite sexes, and they are introduced for short periods in an area unfamiliar to both rabbits.

Major Health Problems
Intestinal blockages: Because rabbits groom themselves constantly, they get furballs just as cats do. Unlike cats, however, rabbits cannot vomit, and excessive swallowed hair may cause a fatal blockage. Rabbits can also develop a serious condition known as GI stasis which has many of the same symptoms. If your rabbit shows a decrease in appetite and in the size of droppings, get advice from a rabbit veterinarian.
Prevention: keep bunny brushed (less hair is swallowed); provide exercise time/space--at least 30 hours a week; give a fresh handful of hay daily; add fresh vegetables gradually to the diet; give petroleum laxatives during a heavy molt or if synthetics have been swallowed.

Bacterial balance: A rabbit's digestive tract is inhabited by healthful bacteria. If the "good" bacteria balance is upset by stale food or a sudden change in diet, harmful bacteria can take over the digestive track and kill the rabbit.
Prevention: Keep all rabbit food in a cool dry place and make dietary changes slowly, giving a new food in small amounts. If no abdominal gurgling or loose stool results in 24 hours, the food may be offered again. If your rabbit goes outside, check for pesticides and toxic plants. (A list is available from your local poison center.)

Infectious bacteria: Many rabbit diseases are caused by bacteria, not viruses, and can be treated with antibiotics. If your rabbit shows symptoms of a "cold," take him to a veterinarian familiar with antibiotics that can be safely used in rabbits. Oral drugs of the Penicillin family, such as Amoxicillin, should NOT be given to a rabbit, since there is risk of destroying good intestinal bacteria.

It's up to you
Find an experienced rabbit doctor before a problem develops. If your rabbit has been harassed by a predator, take him to a veterinarian even if no injuries are apparent. When it is over, keep your rabbit cool with nearby wet towels or ice.
Regularly check eyes, nose, ears, teeth, weight, appetite, and droppings.

Danger Signs
Don't waste valuable time Call your veterinarian immediately if you see:

Diarrhea with listlessness
Sudden loss of appetite with bloat and abdominal gurgling
Loss of appetite with labored breathing
Loss of appetite with runny nose
Head tilt
Incontinence (urine-soaked rear legs)
Abscesses, lumps or swellings anywhere
Any sudden behavior change

HOUSING
Roomy cage
Resting board
Litterbox (in cage)
Pellet bowl or feeder
Water bottle/crock
Toys (chew & toss)
Pet carrier

RUNNING SPACE
Indoors:
Bunny-proofed room(s)
Litterbox
Toys (chew & dig)
Outdoors:
Fenced patio/porch/playpen (with floor)

CONSUMABLES
Limited pellets daily
Fresh water
Hay /straw (for digestive fiber and chewing recreation)
Fresh salad veggies/fruit (add gradually)
Barley/oats (verysmall amounts)
Wood (for chewing recreation)
Multiple enzymes (digestive aid)
Petroleum laxative (when needed for passing hair)

GROOMING
Flea comb
Brush
Flea products safe for rabbits (no Frontline!)
Toenail clippers

SUPPLIES
Dust-free litter (not wood shavings)
Pooper scooper
Whiskbroom/dustpan
White vinegar (for urine accidents)
Hand vacuum
Chlorine bleach (for disinfecting)
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