It has no markings nor the reset and test buttons. i need to know
2006-12-22 08:23:27 · 12 answers · asked by Anonymous in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
Look at your circuit breaker panel (or fusebox, if you have an old house). Find out what circuit that outlet is on. The CB or fuse for that circuit will be marked with the amperage for that entire circuit. If all your outlets were on one circuit (the CB or fuse), that's the total current that can be passed through that outlet before the CB trips or the fuse blows. As I recall, I've seen 10 amp to 30 amp for household circuits.
2006-12-22 08:34:39 · answer #1 · answered by mattzcoz 5 · 2⤊ 0⤋
If the outlet is made for the type of plug that 110V items have it is a 120V outlet unless it was installed with no regard for electrical code requirements. If it is a different type of outlet it is probably a 220V outlet unless it is a 110V outlet for more than 20 amps and very unusual for a home. Most 220 volt outlets are 110/220 volt 3 or 4 wire outlets. They require 2 wires connected to a 2-pole circuit breaker and a common wire. For a new installation, there must also be a ground wire. I believe that a 220 volt outlet circuit will need to be rated for at least 30 amps. That would mean that the wires for the existing outlet would be too small and couldn't be used even if there were enough wires.
2016-05-23 16:30:43 · answer #2 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Depends on location of the outlet and code specifications. Rule of thumb (if such), outside of wet locations (kitchen, bath, exterior), 15 AMPS, inside wet locations 20 AMPS with Ground Fault Interruption (GFI) protection. The breaker supplying the outlet will have the amperage embossed on the handle in numbers of 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50, 60, or 100 (most common household breakers). The breaker determines the amperage to the entire circuit (string of outlets).
2006-12-23 15:42:55 · answer #3 · answered by John Sr. 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Personally, I would replace it with one that is UL Listed. It will have the markings on it or it won't have a UL logo.
A lot depends on how many receptacles are on that particular line.
What wire size is being used. Old houses may have 14 awg. Usually without a earth ground. Newer homes are wired with 12 awg wire and have a return.
Outlets with the TEST and RESET buttons are ground fault outlets. These are usually located in the bathroom, kitchen, outdoor outlets, or any place a hard ground is outside the receptacle.
I would check the wire size, and fuse or circuit breaker to make sure what size they are and are compatible with each other. AND then purchase a UL Listed outlet. If you don't know what your doing, please hire an electrician! Your life may depend on it!!!
2006-12-22 13:53:31 · answer #4 · answered by Bigdog 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Typical wall receptacles should be 15 or 20 amp. Anything more would be for specialized equipment and the outlet would be different. Look at the panel box and it will tell you if it is listed. Most of the time, they are not. If you have a digital multi- meter you can insert the red to the hot (usually left) side and the black into the ground and should get a reading if you set the meter to 100 amps. BE CAREFUL not to touch the connectors to each other. Good luck.
2006-12-22 08:44:39 · answer #5 · answered by tim r 3 · 3⤊ 0⤋
It is most likely a 15 amp. It's simple to tell the difference.
If the top 2 plug slots are both verticle, it is a 15 amp.
If the top left slot has an extra horizontal slot and the top right slot of the plug is verticle, it is a 20 amp recepltacle.
It doesn't really matter because code allows you to install a 15 or 20 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit anyway.
Why did someone give me a thumbs down for this question??? I am an electrician and I am completely correct on this.
2006-12-22 17:02:50 · answer #6 · answered by the4biddendonut 2 · 0⤊ 1⤋
Most residential wiring probably uses 15 amp receptacles.
In a 120 volt receptacle that would imply up to a maximum of 1800 total watts for device(s) using the receptacle.
If you want to risk taking out the center screw holding the protective cover for the (duplex) receptacle, you'll probably be able to see the fine print abt the receptacles capacity.
2006-12-22 10:41:00 · answer #7 · answered by answerING 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Really the rating on the breaker is not what dictates a SAFE amperage,the wire size and receptacle rating is what to go by.If a oversized breaker is somehow installed the undersized wire could cause a fire...check or have the wire size confirmed.Before continuing.Best bet is to get a electrician to help.
2006-12-22 10:11:02 · answer #8 · answered by mr. mr. 3 · 1⤊ 0⤋
There is no current flow (amps) until something is plugged in and turned on. You will need to go to your fuse box/circuit breaker box to find out which breaker or fuse protects that circuit. Typically outlets are 15 or 20 amps
2006-12-22 08:44:54 · answer #9 · answered by shermisme 3 · 1⤊ 0⤋
most wall outlets are 15 amp unless... in new housing code states as follows, 20 amp outlets are required in kitchen, dining room, laundry circuit, and bathrooms, all the rest should be 15 amp unless the builder requires something else. this is Michigan state codes.
2006-12-22 09:40:51 · answer #10 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋