How do you fiberglass?

Question

How do you fiberglass? Does any one no a web site! I would really like some help.

Answer 1

I am a professional G.R.P laminator/mould maker. If you e-mail me at [e-mail] with any particular problem I am sure I can help. The basic process is outlined above in other answers. Polyester resin is the general purpose lay up resin but remember if you are making precision mouldings that this stuff does suffer from heat shrinkage and as such it may be better to use epoxy resin. If you are working off a mould then I will outline the basic process for the lay up procedure.

First ensure the mould is clean, tack rag the mould to be used and add a layer of release agent (often some form of wax and if this is the first pull off this mould it is best to wax the mould at least 5 times). Remember the end product will only be as good as this stage of the process and an extra 5 minutes spent prepping a mould can save hours of unnecessary finishing!!!

When you are happy that the mould is prepped and clean mix your gel coat. If you are using clear gel mixed with a pygment to make a colour remember the correct ratio is always 10 parts clear gel to 1 part pygment (or 10% so 5kg of gel would require 500g of pygment) this must be mixed thoroughly. Next the gel must be catalysed (catalyst normally comes free with the product) The amount of catalyst should depend on how warm it is where the mould is to cure, however as a rough guide I always advise that 3% of the weight is added in catalyst again mix thoroughly. Next the gel coat needs to be applied. The gel must go on even and thin on the first coat or it will be liable to streak where on any vertical or incline parts of the mould. Once the area is covered leave it to cure. Once cured apply a second thick coat of gel coat to the mould to ensure there are no thin patches of gel on the mould. At this stage it is imprtant to remember that you will be laying up onto this surface so it should be as flat and lump free as possible to help you on your next stage. Leave to cure.

Next get the polyester resin and mix in (again it varies on the temperature of the working environment and the skill of the laminator) 3% of the resins weight in catalyst, you can also add a little of the colour pygment if you so wish and mix well. From there using a brush wet the mould with the resin and apply chpped strands to any right angles, re wet these and ensure the resin has taken to all of them, otherwise thegel coat may be left unbonded to dry mat and cause voids. Next take 2 sheets of g.r.p mat wet both sides with the brush and place it like wallpaper on the desired area ( this is trickier than it sounds as there is an emulsion binder in the mat which is dissolved by the resin and makes it stretch if it becomes to heavy or is left for any time). repeat the process on the next part and then go back to the first piece you laid up and dab at the mat until it takes the shape of mould. You repeat this until the whole area is covered and then roll out the mat using special g.r.p rollers alternately go over the whole mould in a circular motion with two fingers forcing the air out using your fingers, then dab down the whole mould again using the brush.
After a little while you will get the hang of it but you do need to persevere as it is a skilled job.
Again any questions please e-mail me, carbon fibre and kevlar are also pretty similar to this method. Of course in industry we use spray machines to do most of the process but I won't bore you with that...

Answer 2

Lots of partial answers above, but perhaps limited experience. You didn't say if you are trying to patch a rusted fender or build a yacht. I've done both.

Basically Fiberglass construction is layers of glass fabric coated with poly or epoxy resins that harden. The resin is the binder, the glass fiber is the structural strength.

While glassing isn't a terribly difficult job, it's very skill and procedure-sensitive thing. If you don't understand what you are doing, your results will be poor or even useless. Definitely- study up. Get good information on basic procedures first. Understand the conditions required, resin options and fabric options.

The reference to boat work as sources is best, ans there are many valuable ones online with FG construction sections.
Just do a Google or Yahoo search for "fiberglass boat construction" or similar terms. At various sites, look for their sections on how to use the product.

Answer 3

It looks like people have already given you some good tips for fiberglassing, but I just want to add one thing.

I've dabbled with fiberglass here and there for car audio, and the best tip that I have recieved so far is to place wax paper onto the surface that you have fiberglassed while it is still wet. The wax paper will release later when it has dried. The wax paper smooths the surface, so that you don't have to spend as much time sanding it later.

Answer 4

Strangely enough, one of the best sources on using fiberglass is in the boat repair section of your local library. Most boats made since about 1970 are fiberglass and there are numerous how to books out on repair or making the whole thing. Just check.

Answer 5

You really need a book with pictures to show you how its done.

Using fibreglass is not too difficult, but you need to 'see' how to handle the stuff.

Remember that the matting is irritant, and the resin sticks to skin, so gloves are a must. Unless you are working outside a respirator is also a must - the fumes DO make you ill!!

For cleaning equipment you can use standard cellulose thinners - this may work out cheaper than acetone for you.

If you are in the UK then a company called Glassplies in Southport supply reclaimed resin and second grade mattng which is fine for DIY work, and works out a lot cheaper than buying small quantities from the motor factor.

Answer 6

You use an epoxy like West System. Slather it on. Lay a layer of fiberglass. Slather more epoxy one lay another layer. You want the fiberglass sheets to overlap. Don't do so much that you have curing problems but after you get the strength you need place a final layer of epoxy, let dry and sand, sand, sand. Never did it myself but I watched my husband enough repairing Jetskis for a living.

http://www.westsystem.com/

Answer 7

you must be a glutton for punishment...fiberglass resins and sheeting are really not good for the human body in any way.
it is simple , really: first you apply the resin, it is painted on the surface like paint, then you apply the fiberglass sheeting, it is laid out as smoothly and flat as possible, and all air bubbles rolled out and smoothed out and another coat of resin is applyed to the top of that, now you can go for a second layer if you wish and if you haven't rubbed your eyes by now and they are not swollen shut, you may apply a second layer of fiberglass sheet to the surface of what you've just done and another smoothing and removing of air bubbles and a final layer of resin. ( or you can go for a third , fourth, fifth etc layer.)

Answer 8

If u need to produce identical products of fibreglass , then u will make moulds from timber and other permanent diecasts . Thenafter u get into making the final product , as mentioned earlier. Hence fibreglass work entails expensive initial outlays.

Answer 9

do you mean .how do you fibre glass a loft?..first clear one half of loft youl need a good light ..a full set of overalls ..hat ..goggles ..breathing face mask . .buy enough rolls to bring thickness of fibreglass up to 250mm ..in old money that's 10 inches ..roll it out filling all gaps ..after you have done one side ..repeat on other .remove all protective clothing outside ..have a bath ..youl need it ..there are grants available to some groups of people check on web

Answer 10

Give jack w the 10 points...he's absolutely correct! And I'll get 2 points for supporting him!