Is there a tool to bevel drywall seams quickly beside utility knife?

Question

if so does it have a name ^_^

Drywall Rasp looks like a tool plane, that a lot of dust. yeah i know length way comes already beveled but the end arent beveled yet. yeah i've drawed out the mud but it kind of feels like cheating.

i'd also like to bevel the area when i patch a wall. i dont want to heavy coat the wall with paint

Answer 1

I'm kinda leaning toward some confusion too but noting answer number 4.
After installing thousands of sq. ft. of drywall, I wonder?

Are you asking about creating an actual "bevel" on a flat area?
Drywall edges on an uncut sheet are already "compressed at the long measure, to allow Mudding and taping.

In areas where two cuts have to join its best that they do so at corners or where they meet molding or are hidden by it.

Part of the process, which is most important, is planning. Knowing where and how the "sheets" will be installed.

Certainly you can rasp joints/seams to cut down the "flush" thickness of a "cut piece" and it will be messy and require some level of skill, and more tape and mud.

With no offense, and assuming you may be a "virgin" at this I have a suggestion.

Lay out a sheet of plywood, even flat on a floor. Waste a sheet of drywall or scrap, and test the process in all variations. Compressed seams, flats cut, etc.

The issue, certainly with two cut pieces "Butting" together, is that there is no depressed area for mud and tape, hence a minor raising of the finish. A good "Hanger/Finisher might draw out the MUD farther than one might expect, to fool the eye once paint is applied.

Steven Wolf
(The Rev.)

Answer 2

Yes, There are ways. At first I thought this was not necessary. Because 99% of all seams are butted even when they require seaming reinforcement binders. The first idea that came to my mind was using mat board cutter such as what you would find in a high end arts and crafts retail store. Another suggestion would be a cordless trim saw with a small circular bevel saw blade for accuracy. The mat board cutter uses a sharp razor knife and would generate the least amount of dust. And either one would leave a crisp edge.

Answer 3

years of practice is the "tool". the pro's mud and tape the butt seams, 2nd coat with 6" knife, 3rd coat with a 10" or 12" knife.the whole trick is to spread it out and make the wall appear flat. then sand 1st with 80 grit, then finish with 150. myself, it takes me 4 or 5 coats, but i'm a siding and roofing kinda guy. i find doing multiple thin coats is better than messing up the paper by a lot of sanding. hope this info helps and good luck, and happy holidays!

Answer 4

I think I follow you here...you mean beveling seams that are butt joints, where you don't have the built-in bevel like you have on the sides, right?
You might be looking for a rasp...
http://www.all-wall.com/acatalog/info_3_MT14389.html

Answer 5

I think most missed ur Q. If ur talking about finish mudding seams there is a tool used by the pros called a banjo. It holds the seam tape and applies the mudd in one motion. I find them cumbersome, hard to use, and harder to keep clean. Finish mudd is an art and you just have to train urself.

Answer 6

Not really but, you could always try a "Drywall Rasp". I is more for smoothing your cuts.

Answer 7

yes its called rotozip, its a great tool , you can find it at sears , lowes, homedepot

Answer 8

YES

Answer 9

yes...