So Far all of the above.... Everyone is correct so far.... Plus
With no heat and a Full coolant system
Heater Core or Water Pump....
IF the Electric Fan isn't running engine will over heat but the heater core will be twice as hot....
Also if you keep over heating it the Head gasket will Go
This engine blows Head gaskets very easy if over heated
this is a Olds 2.5 design corporate engine... Strong built but has very close limits to RPM's and Heat...
Have someone check it out with you... If there has been a on going ringing noise or rakkett from the belt area look at the water pump...
Good Luck....
2006-12-17 07:52:28
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answer #1
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answered by Spinner...428 6
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There is the possibility that the new thermostat is not working properly. I know this sounds crazy with it being new, but some years back, I had this very thing happen on a car we were servicing at the garage. The thermostat was not opening causing the guage to read hot and there was no heat from the heater since the water was going back through the bypass hose. And this was a name brand thermostat. Occasionally you can get defective parts even in name brand. It's VERY RARE, but it does happen. You have mentioned two symptoms that may or may not be related. First is the overheat condition. There could be a number of problems such as the thermostat, the temperature sensor in the engine block being faulty and not giving an accurate reading, and/or cooling system leaks. Second is the not heating. On a cold day, 3 miles is not enough distance to be putting out enough heat to feel it if you live in a cold climate. Heater core blockage may have occured over time, even on a well maintained car. That would be a cause of no heat. Old antifreeze has a tendancy to break down over time causing sludge buildup on even the most well kept cars. Lime buildup is another cause of blockage in both radiators and heater cores. If you have lime in your water (tap water) it can, over time, build up in the cooling system at the ends of the tubes in both the radiator and heater core. Like stalagtites in a cave, just a lot quicker in a car. I would start by flushing the cooling system and replacing the antifreeze with a name brand such as Zerex or Prestone. Sure these cost a bit more than the store brand counterparts, but given what I've seen over the years, the cost difference is well offset by savings in repairs. And go with the tried and true 50/50 mixture of coolant and water when refilling the cooling system. Then if that doesn't completely do the job and it still overheats, the next step (assuming there is still no leakage) would be to check the thermostat again and the temperature sensor in the engine. And to correct an earlier person's answer, the 2.5 was a Pontiac built engine. It started out in the Starfire/Astre/Skyhawk body styles as a RWD engine and was converted to the FWD cars beginning in 1980 with the Omega/Pheonix/ et cetera. The only Olds built 4 cylinder engine was the "Quad 4".
2006-12-17 13:59:08
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answer #2
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answered by pygmybilly 3
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Possibly a blocked heater core- does the heat work properly? Or you may have come type of corrosion in the hoses that go to and from the core. I had a similar problem in a Dodge Intrepid and was able to have both hoses changed and system flushed for about $150. If you have a buildup of back-pressure it is a good indicator of a blockage- common in even well mainatained older cars
2006-12-17 07:47:41
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answer #3
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answered by truthinhistory 2
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in case you have spark, and beginning fluid made no difference, then you definately the two have not have been given any compression or the timing is off. If the timing belt has jumped or broken this might reason it. Does the engine spin actual quickly? Is the cam turning? those may be the 1st issues to make sure at this element.
2016-12-30 13:35:01
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answer #4
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answered by ? 3
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did you check and see if the electric fan is comming on is the radiator good
2006-12-17 07:48:11
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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sounds like the water pump has failed.
2006-12-17 07:47:41
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answer #6
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answered by Anonymous
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