91 Cavalier and the rear brake will not bleed (keep getting air)?

Question

Hello and good day. Here is my dilemna, I was doing a tire rotation and found a wheel cylinder that blew. I replaced the wheel cylinder and during this process had to replace the line that goes from the flex hose to the wheel cylinder. Now that this has been replaced I have been bleeding for a long time but there is continuous air.
The master cylinder is 5 months old and the lines were replaced during that time.
I tried to gravity bleed it for about an hour and then start bleeding again and even though i finally have a little bit of brake there is still limitless air bubbles (1/4 to 1/2 inch bubbles and a stream of little ones). I have bled through half a quart of fluid and this still is the case (and bled with car off for a while and then on). Bleeding is with a hose in a jar and my wife in the car (pump pump bleed stop, pump bleed stop over and over).
HELP
Is there something I am missing or is there a problem that I am not aware of.
I hate cavaliers.
Thanks

Thanks for the help. As it turns out the master cylinder appears to be defective. As it turns out this is a common problem and I have a feeling if I put on a new master those front calipers are about ready to leak. So scrap it is and I just happen to have a 93 mazda 323 I had waiting for just such a probelm and she should be on the road by Saturday.
Makes more sense to fix that up because it is way easier to work on and the brakes just bled like usual. 4 to 6 pumps total and no air.

:)
Wow those cavaliers are something else. Touch anything and watch the dollars add up, 15.00 or 20.00 at a time but it still adds up.

Thanks again for your time

Answer 1

Yep hose is toooooo long and may be to big 1/4in or smaller and not more than 12-16in long also do you have the cover off the reservoir if so even full shell suck air even the pros have trouble but do those and you should get er done Goodluck

Answer 2

Change them one at a time. Try to keep the fluid inside the hoses by going to the auto parts store for a rubber cap the same size as the hoses. Begin changing the calipers at the rear right brake. Replace the caliper and replace the hose on the caliper. After you are done replacing the right rear caliper, remove the master cylinder reservoir cap and fill the fluid up. Replace the cap. Have a helper push the brake pedal down ONCE so you do not foam up the fluid. bleed the system this way until you get fluid coming out of the caliper. Do this ritual with the left rear next, the front right, (passenger side) and the left front last. Always make sure you did not drain all the brake fluid from the master cylinder. If you did do this, you will probably need to bleed the master cylinder because you got air in it also. To bleed a master cylinder, have your helper push the brake pedal down ONCE and hold it down. Get the right brake line wrench to fit your FRONT brake line to your master cylinder and crack it open until your helper says it is down to the floor. Have him hold it there and tighten the fitting. Do this about two-three times, then do the same thing with the REAR brake line on the master cylinder. ALWAYS CHECK THE FLUID LEVEL OF YOUR MASTER CYLINDER WITH EACH CALIPER CHANGE OR YOU WILL BE BLEEDING YOUR MASTER CYLINDER BECAUSE YOUR BRAKES WILL FEEL SPONGY FROM AIR INSIDE THE MASTER CYLINDER.

Answer 3

I am not sure but sounds like you are bleeding the wheel you worked on. All 4 must be bled. You must be sure to refill the master and not allow it to get low as it will suck air. It is not necessary to run the engine. As previously stated, close bleed valve. Pump, pump, hold pedal down, even if it's on the floor, open bleed don't let up on pedal push it to the limit. Close bleed. Iwould do this twice then go to next wheel and repeat.

Answer 4

Make sure your master cylinder is full of fluid.
Make sure your wife is pushing HARD on the pedal.
Have her push HARD then crack open the bleeder while she is still pushing, then close it back tight.
Have her release the pedal.
Repeat.
Fluid has to come out.
Also, like the other guy said, start at the furthest brake from the master cylinder first.
Plus I am assuming that you don't have antilock brakes. If you do, you need to operate the ABS to bleed the brakes (I think).
Good luck. You'll get to work.

Answer 5

if you bleed the master then is there a proportioning valve below the master? if so they can malfuntion and may need bled as well, if this does not help the valve may need to be replaced! i dont envy you, those cars and thier sister cars have been a thorn in my side many times! if this doesnt solve your problem you can email me for more ideas at [e-mail] for other things i may think up later.

Answer 6

just to make sure that you are closing the bleeder screw before she takes her foot off the pedal. Also you must bleed from the futhest wheel from the master cylinder. EXAMPLE right rear, then left rear , right front then left front. Good luck