What is the best thing to do for fleas???

Question

I have fleas bad time they bite everyone around here and i want them gone, any ideas???

Answer 1

Treatment of Premises
If you neglect to treat the pet's environment (the premises), you will miss more than 90% of the developing flea population -- the eggs, larvae and pupae. If the pet spends time indoors, the interior of the home should also be treated. Before treatment, the pet owner should:



Remove all toys, clothing, and stored items from floors, under beds, and in closets. This step is essential so that all areas will be accessible for treatment.

Remove pet food and water dishes, cover fish tanks, and disconnect their aerators.

Wash, dry-clean or destroy all pet bedding.

Vacuum! -- vacuuming removes many of the eggs, larvae and pupae developing within the home. Vacuuming also stimulates pre-adult fleas to emerge sooner from their insecticide-resistant cocoons, thus hastening their contact with insecticide residues in the carpet. By raising the nap of the carpet, vacuuming improves the insecticide's penetration down to the base of the carpet fibers where the developing fleas live. Vacuum thoroughly, especially in areas where pets rest or sleep. Don't forget to vacuum along edges of rooms and beneath furniture, cushions, beds, and throw rugs. After vacuuming, seal the vacuum bag in a garbage bag and discard it in an outdoor trash container.
Insecticide Application - Once fleas become established in a home, insecticides are almost always needed to control them. Always read and follow label directions on the insecticide container. Other than the person performing the application, people and pets should be out of the house during treatment. People and pets should also remain off treated surfaces until the spray has dried. This may take several hours, depending on carpet type, ventilation and method of application. Opening windows and running the fan or air conditioner after treatment will enhance drying and minimize odor.

Many different products are available for home treatment. The most effective formulations contain both an adulticide (e.g., permethrin) effective against the biting adult stage, and an insect growth regulator (methoprene or pyriproxyfen), necessary to provide long-term suppression of the eggs, larvae and pupae. Pet owners will need to carefully read the “active ingredients” panel on the product label to determine if these ingredients are present. Examples include Raid Flea Killer Plus(R), Siphotrol Plus(R), , Bio Flea Halt(TM), and Fleatrol(R). Most homeowners will find aerosol formulations easier to apply than liquids. Moreover, aerosol products which can be dispensed by hand -- and thus directed under and behind beds, furniture, etc. -- tend to be more effective than “foggers” or “bug bombs” which are indiscriminately set off in the center of a room. It is essential that the application be thorough and include all likely areas of flea development. Carpets, throw rugs, under and behind beds and furniture, and beneath cushions on which pets sleep should all be treated. Pay particular attention to areas where pets spend time or sleep, as these will be the areas where most flea eggs, larvae and pupae will be concentrated. For example, if the family cat sleeps within a closet, or hides under the bed, these areas must be treated or the problem will continue. Hardwood and tile floors generally do not require treatment, but should be thoroughly vacuumed.

Expect to see some fleas for 2 weeks or longer following treatment. Provided all infested areas were treated initially, these "survivors" are probably newly emerged adults which have not yet succumbed to the insecticide. Instead of retreating the premises immediately, continue to vacuum. As noted earlier, vacuuming stimulates the insecticide-resistant pupae to hatch, bringing the newly emerged adults into contact with the insecticide sooner. Flea traps, such as those utilizing a light and glue board to attract and capture adult fleas, can be helpful but will not eliminate a flea infestation unless used in combination with other methods. If adult fleas continue to be seen beyond 2-4 weeks, retreatment of the premises (and pet) may be necessary.

Treatment of Pet
It is important that the pet be treated in conjunction with the premises, preferably on the same day. Adult fleas spend virtually their entire life on the animal -- not in the carpet. Untreated pets will continue to be bothered by fleas. They may also transport fleas in from outdoors, eventually overcoming the effectiveness of the insecticide applied inside the home.

Pets can be treated either by a veterinarian or the pet owner. A variety of on-animal formulations are available that may be prescribed by veterinarians. Many provide only short-term relief against biting adults (a few hours to a few weeks); however, two new veterinarian-supplied products, Advantage and Frontline, control adult fleas on pets for 1 and 3 months, respectively. Some products also contain an insect growth regulator (IGR) to prevent eggs from hatching as they are laid on the animal (e.g., Raid Flea Killer Plus, Ovitrol Plus(R), Bio Spot(TM)). Convenient, long-term prevention of egg hatch can be accomplished either with the Ovitrol(R) Flea Egg Collar, or Program(R), administered orally to pets as a tablet. (See ENTFACT 628 - A Smarter Approach To Flea Control). Both of these products are available through veterinarians.

Pet owners should always read the product label. Certain products can be used only on dogs, and some list specific treatment procedures for puppies and kittens. Do not treat pets with the same products used to treat carpeting or the yard. As previously mentioned, it is important that pets be kept off treated carpets and surfaces until the spray has completely dried.

To re-cap, "de-fleaing" the pet is an essential step in ridding a home of fleas. However, pet owners must also treat the pet's environment, the home. Having your pet dipped will not, in itself, eliminate fleas in an infested home.

Treatment of Yard
Most flea problems in Kentucky can be eliminated by treating the pet and the interior of the home. In cases where pets spend most of their time outdoors, it may also be necessary to treat the yard. One way to determine if the yard is infested is to walk around the property wearing white athletic socks, pulled to the knee. If fleas are present, they will be seen against the white background of the socks.

Outdoor flea treatment should focus on areas where pets rest, sleep, and run, such as doghouse and kennel areas, under decks, along fences and next to the foundation. It is seldom necessary to treat the entire yard or open areas exposed to full sun. Insecticide formulations containing chlorpyrifos (Dursban) or permethrin are somewhat effective for outdoor flea treatment. These can be applied with a hose-end or pump-up sprayer. Long term suppression of fleas infesting kennels or outdoor areas can be enhanced with formulations containing an IGR such as methoprene or pyriproxyfen.

Fleas can be successfully controlled by diligently following the steps outlined above. Homeowners who lack the time to control fleas themselves or who are uncomfortable applying pesticides may wish to enlist the services of a professional pest control firm.

Answer 2

86mets had the right answer. It was pretty much verbatim from one of the cooperative extension sites we visited when our daughter brought her cat from a flea invested house into ours.

The animals should be on Advantage or Frontline.

Vacuum the house thoroughly as the eggs survive in rugs and corners for several weeks after the adult fleas are killed by Advantage or Frontline on your animals.

We found Zodiac was most effective on areas where animals tend to rest and where the dead fleas' eggs fall off--like on rugs under tables and behind couches. You spray on a light mist in these areas. You'll just have to keep the animals away until the area dries thoroughly and airs out. We've found this product at Petco and some grocery stores.

U of K entomology and other college extension services are great resources. We tried them all.

Check with your vet on the animals. Our suggestions worked for our dog and two cats and the kids (funny how the fleas would go for one kid over the others).

Answer 3

1. vaccuum everywhere - under furniture, between sofa cushions etc; launder everything that pets contact in the hottest water that is safe for it. Every. Thing.
2. treat with a growth regulator containing spray that you apply by hand (not a bomb). My fave is Siphotrol Area Treatment (Vet Kem) It doesn't take that much, just a light spray. Apply to places fleas would hide - fabrics, crevices, under furniture.
3. apply Advantage or Frontline or Revolution to all pets
4. treat your yard or the area right outside your door with a flea specific treatment (I have no particular recommendation - maybe get an exterminator)
5. Repeat steps 1 and 2 again in two weeks regardless of whether you see fleas

Doing only step 3 and repeating it every 3 weeks will do the trick too, but won't give you immediate and complete results.

Answer 4

I just spent the last 2 days cleaning this whole house!!
Very strange i should come on here and see this...
I called the vet and she said they have a pill now that wont harm your pet but it kills the flees.
Its calledCapstar.I paid $4.00 for each pill.I had to buy 6 pills since i have 3 cats.You can give one per day until the fleas are gone!
She said it is the best stuff ever marketed!!!
So i am giving it a try....So far i dont see anything but dead fleas.
I am keeping my 2 lil ones in one room and my older cat downstairs-since i have cleaned everywhere-i dont want reinfestation.This way i can just cleanup as they shed the dead fleas!
You have to vacuum matresses and couches and wash any clothes/blankets your pets may have layed on as well.
I have worked my butt off but they aren't scratching tonight.I am just gonna give one more pill just to be safe!!
Instead of using poison on the carpets.I put down baking soda and let it sit for about half an hour too.The vet recommended this..
Good luck to you..

Answer 5

We had this problem to and what we found the best is brewers yeast. You can buy it at a health food store. It is cheap and very effective. For my 10 pound dog we gave him 500 mgs / day and followed the directions on the label for people.

Brewers yeast stops most bugs from biting. We live in the country in a place where there is all of bug and this works for most insects. When we first moved to the country our dog did not want to go out side because of the horse and dear flies after we started him on the yeast we could not get him to come in.

Answer 6

give them a flea bath then put some powder on them an then repeat for the next 3 weeks

Answer 7

Put some Frontline (PetSmart) on the animal. When the fleas jump on the animal, they will be killed. Spray Raid on the floor. Pretty soon, they will all be gone.

Answer 8

Yeah fumigating is about the only option if you want them completely gone for sure,unless you want to wear a flea collar, lol.

Answer 9

How the hell did you get fleas!!! Only animals get them unless you have alto of pets or there is alot of animals. Just put fleas repellent.

Answer 10

Dr.foster@Smith are cheaper on flea meds than your vet office. now if it is in the house you usually have to have someone come and spray. but it want do anygood until you have your pets done. and the yard if they stay in it. more than likely that is where are getting them.
some of your feed stores have some sprays you can get but it is according how bad you have them.

Answer 11

Flea powder.