how do i know if i need 110 or 220 power source for washing machine?

Question

I want to know if i need to hire an electrician to wire my laundry hookup with 220. Dryer electrical requirements are: 30 amp, 120/240 volts, 60 htz. A four-wire or three-wire, sigle phase electrical supply required. A time-delay fuse or circuit breaker and separate circuit is recommended.

Answer 1

if it's a combo unit then those can run off of 240v with the washer tapping off 1 leg and a nuetral. Newer dryers are now wire 4 wire hook up, old ones are 3 wire, but current NEC code mandates 4 wire hook up. So thats 2 hots ( A and B legs on a single phase power which is 120/240 ) 1 Nuetral and 1 Ground. For 30 amps all wires are #10 ( stranded or solid or you can get 10-3 nmc and run it back to the panel and get a 2 pole 30 amp breaker ). The reason for the 4 wire is in the old days their was 2 hots and 1 nuetral, but the nuetral was bonded at the chassis, not a good thing should you get a current leak, the chassis then become energized with any load inbalance, then if if it's on concrete an your barefoot, ZAP. Now they seperate the nuetral from the ground until is bonded back at the service panel.

old receptacles were either a NEMA 6-30-R or 10-30-R
new ones are NEMA 14-30-R so the dryer should have a NEMA 14-30-P ( cord ) on it.
R = receptacle ( what would be in the wall )
P= plug ( coming from the dryer )

Answer 2

You tell by the plug. If the dryer plug resembles that of any other three-prong just stick in the wall that has a circuit with a strong enough breaker. (To find this out go to your circuit box--the breakers will be labeled, most houses are built with a laundry room in mind). If the plug is quite large and the prongs are angular then it is a 220 line and you might need to rewire, but if a 220 plug isn't present it might just be the case that the plug isn't wired in and the breaker still has a 220 capacity. If it does then all you have to do is wire a new plug--somethign anyone can do. If it doesn't then you will need to run a 220 line into the room from another breaker.

Answer 3

Dryers are typically 30 Amp 220 volt and washers are 110 volt and 20 Amp. You should have a separate circuit breaker for the dryer and it is nice to have a dedicated line to the washer (so you don't blow the CB all the time).
If the units are the stacked units on one frame, then usually you just need the 220 volt 30 Amp circuit breaker and the washer feeds from that too.
Make sure the units have chassis grounds with good connections.

Answer 4

Running a new 220v circuit is really no harder than running a new 120v circuit.

I am assuming you have a breaker panel, and you have some sort of wiring access from that breaker panel to the Dryer.

You would run an adequately sized wire (I think 30 amp calls for #10 wire) and you will need to get wire that is bundled as a 3 conductor set with a 4th green ground wire from the new Dryer Outlet to the breaker panel.

At the breaker panel you will need to install a new double pole 30 amp breaker (looks like 2 breakers in one.)

The new 30 amp breaker should have installation instructions, and you will have to take the breaker panel apart to install, and turn of the power to the house.

Even with the main breaker off there is some live wire going to the main breaker so be very careful.

Install the black and the red wire to the new double pole breaker, install the ground and the white wire to the common and ground grid in the breaker box, install the new breaker in the breaker box, and put the breaker box back together and your new dryer circuit is ready to run.

Answer 5

Your washer will be a 120: the dryer on the other hand will be a 220 I hope you didn't get a 120, you can by them but ?
If your not wired for a 220 get an electrician to run a wire for you. Save you a lot of headaches down the line.

Answer 6

You already have done your homework really well. You seem to know a thing or two about these. I was about to tell you all these but you have answered your own questions.

Just so you know - dryers are 220v. Washers are 110V. Since you appear to be knowledgeable, let me further suggest that if you do not have a 110V supply, you can wire it yourself. It is not that big a deal. Buy a 14 guage wire, run it from your fusebox and have a separate fuse. Switch off the main, match the same type of fuse that you now have, make it 15 Amps and connect the two terminals the same way as the others are done. Viola..! you have power. Save a lot of money. Electricians charge as much - if not more - as doctors. There is no need.

Same for plumbing. If you have the tools such as propane torch, sodders, acid paste you can do it yourself. Ask your hardware stores to show you how to do it. They are very helpful. You save a bundle.

The satisfaction of knowing the job is well done - priceless.

Answer 7

By the plug, a 220 plug is 5 times the size of a 110. The prongs of a 220 are completely different shape than a 110. If you are putting this in your house you do not need a 220 washing machine. That is an industrial size washing machine.

Answer 8

If you are trying to wire this for the first time it would be a good idea to get an electrician to do it. Most dryers are 220 and most washers are 110

Answer 9

If there is a huge plug on the wall it's 220 for your dryer. Older homes have three wire, newer homes have four wire, but ALL dryers come with three wire cable. You can buy a four wire cable at Lowes or Home Depot and change it yourself. It's a no brainer.

Washer should be 110 - standard size plug/cord.

Answer 10

read the nameplate rating on any appliance....washers are usually 110 volts aprox 12-15 amps....which require per code a separate (nothing else on the circuit) branch circuit.
dryers are usually 220 volts and 30 amps.....requiring either a 3 prong or 4 prong outlet....depending on the cord you have on the dryer..