How to Design a Garden Path?

Question

layout ,shape etc

Answer 1

Paths first serve a utilitarian function, making it easy to walk from
point A to point B. A basic path directs pedestrians pleasantly and
safely, keeping shoes dry in the process. But a well-designed path
does much more, inviting, sometimes hiding or revealing views, and
stimulating the senses. Paths also add interest to the garden by connecting
and unifying unrelated areas.
Instructions
STEP 1: Lay out the location and shape of the path. All things being equal, people walk in straight lines and will cut across right angle corners. Straight paths are predictable--but paths that disappear around a tree or a corner are more interesting, as well as more natural-looking. If a tree or boulder is in the way, curve your path around it. If a slope is too steep, put in a switchback. STEP 2: Make entry paths about 4 feet (1.2 m) wide so two people can walk side by side. Secondary garden paths, used by one person at a time, are narrower, from 30 to 36 inches (76 to 91 cm) wide. STEP 3: Choose a paving material that is suitable to its intended use. A path that will receive regular use needs to be solid, evenly set and not slippery. The best choices are brick or concrete pavers, poured concrete, cut stones or large stones set close together. Think about what materials would complement your house and its natural surroundings. Stroll through various neighborhoods and thumb through garden magazines to get ideas. STEP 4: Make sure the path won't bog down in water. In order to drain correctly, solid paths of concrete, brick or stone need to slope away from the house at 1⁄8 inch for every foot of length (1 degree), or 1⁄4 inch per foot of width (2 degrees). Or make the finished path about 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) higher than the adjacent grade. STEP 5: Excavate a sufficiently deep gravel base to ensure that pavers stay level for years to come. In the South and West, where the ground doesn't freeze, make the gravel base about 4 inches (10 cm) deep. In soils that do freeze, make your base 5 to 8 inches (13 to 20 cm) deep. Confirm with a local supplier. STEP 6: Add a 1- to 2-inch (2.5 to 5 cm) layer of leveling sand over the gravel so that you can nudge a stone or brick slightly until it's in just the right position. If weeds are a likely problem, lay down a layer of landscape fabric over the gravel before adding the sand. STEP 7: Use an edging to hold closely laid pavers in place. Edgings are commonly made of masonry, aluminum or steel. STEP 8: Use low-growing plants such as blue fescue (Festuca), candytuft (Iberis) or bush germander (Teucrium) along path edges to make the transition from path to landscape more graceful. Fill gaps between pavers with green carpet (Herniaria), blue star creeper (Laurentia), baby's tears (Soleirolia) or creeping (or woolly) thyme.

Answer 2

Much like designing anything, you should sit down and draw up a few different ideas of what you'd envision the end product as being. Think about the area that you've got and what sort of opportunities that there are to use some of the natural landmarks in the spot where you're going to put the garden path. There's likely a natural path already there which you can build upon and develop.

I built one for my parents once using the 12 X 12 flat blocks set in mud. After the mud dries, it's like you've got a solid walkway set in concrete.

Try some of these sites.
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Good Luck!

Answer 3

I used a handy tool on the Lowes site to get a general idea. It enables you to create beds, lawn areas and pathways. Then I went out into the yard to fine tune the design. I used a garden hose to delineate the beds and tied string to stakes to get the pathways curving the way I wanted them to go. In my case, I have a very boxy home with a lot of straight lines so I curved my beds and pathways for more interest. I actually used paverstones for three of my pathways and stepping stones for two others. Then I simply chose a layout for the stones that worked for the shape I designed. One pavestone path was wide enough to have borders on both sides but the others weren't. It helped to buy a few of the stones and play with the layout before I ordered enough to actually build the walk.

But you can also use degenerated granite, bricks, gravel and a host of manufactured products to make your garden path.

Answer 4

The way we did ours was based on use of the area. At first, we monitored how we moved through the space without any path. Then we started to create simple planting areas and added plants. These planting areas defined the paths in reverse...what wasn't in the area, became the path. Three years later, we have a mini botanical garden in our yard. Complete with paths, lights beautiful flowers and ornaments. And the best thing? We did it all by ourselves and looking at the fruits of our labors is way cool! Enjoy your garden.

Answer 5

It may sound a bit daft but you could buy some marbles the round glass ones and stick a few of those in, the down side is they will retain water around them as you need them to be level with the path. If the concrete is deep enough broken bottle bottom ends pushed in whilst it's still wet. If you have a dog let it leave a few paw prints. Mosaic mini tiles too.

Answer 6

It depends upon the shape of the house and the path.Then u can make it appropriate--with colour and where to keep and gardening or the statue or water fall.All depends opon the availibility of money also.

Answer 7

Hire a landscape designer.

Answer 8

Hire someone.

Answer 9

HIRE HIRE HIRE


♠♠♠THE QUEEN OF HEARTS♠♠♠

Answer 10

dont know