What should I test for in my freshwater aquarium?

Question

Besides ph

and has anyone used those stick on test things?
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=8994&N=2004+113074+1031

Answer 1

Three basic tests for freshwater aquarium are
ph to test the water hardness or softness, ammonia and nitrates.
The ph you want should be as near to 7 as possible with normal fish like goldfish or tropical fish.
Ammonia is produced by waste fron the fish and rotting food or plant matter.
Nitrates are produced by the bacteria in the filter system and generally increase as the ammonia decreases.
Both ammonia and nitrates need to be as near to zero as possible but you can have a higher concentration of nitrates than ammonia as ammonia is the most poisonous of the two.
You cannot test for stress levels or diseases like Ich or velvet.
Temperature can be read from the thermoneter.
How to set up a tank and condition it is explained on my web site

Answer 2

Nitrates (no3), Nitrites (no2), and Ammonia (NH) are the essentials to test for. Nitrites and Ammonia are both deadly to your fish in tiny ammounts. Although they can survive in amounts above 0ppm, it would be similar to you living next to a volcanic vent; not very good for the lungs. Nitrates are relatively safe in smaller quantities but can be dangerous when levels get higher. This is why you should do a biweekly water change on your tank. If you have specialty fish, you may also need to test for salinity as many "freshwater" fish require some salt. pH is only necessary if you have fish that require a specific acidity (like Discus or Rift lake cichlids), otherwise most fish are pretty good at any relatively safe level.

Good luck.

Answer 3

You can't test for Ich or Stress. You can see those when you observe your fish.

You should test for ammonia which should be 0ppm
nitrites which should be 0ppm
nitrates which should be under 40ppm
kH and GH (carbonate and general hardness)
And pH, of course

kH, GH and pH should be stable. Most fish can adapt well but some fish require certain GH/kH or pH, so you need to know what your tap water is like.

A liquid testing kit is better than a strip test.

You can use those tank sticky things, but they only alert when certain levels are getting dangerously high.

Answer 4

Nitrites, Nitrates, Amonia, and pH are the main ones.

Through Nitrogen cycle Nitrites(least harmful) turn into Nitrates, which eventually turns into Amonia(most harmful of 3), which is eventually brokedown. Takes about 2 weeks to go through cycle.

Goes through cycle when starting up tank or if a fish dies.

A pH around 9 is probably the best, especially for breeding.

Answer 5

pH does not test hardness, it tests alkalinity.

To learn about both and how they relate, I offer a link to an elist discussion about them. This stuff, tho lengthy, is well worth the read as it will provide you with detailed knowledge of pH, GH and KH and how they interact.

Answer 6

Heavy Metals.

Answer 7

stress levels? how do you test those! i have my stressometer out the back...lol quick jimmys floating sideways...thats got to be stressful...2 stress units there...
Id say water temperature, pH primarily
DO, alkalinity , conductivity if you want to be anal about it -or if you have a particular unknown problem also metals and nutrients but hey if its your drinking supply and you dont have existing issues those things are unlikely to emerge as problems And check waste levels

Answer 8

Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and hardness should all be tested regularly.

I keep those tank ammonia sensors in my quarantine tank and hospital tank. They work marvelously in fresh or saltwater.

Answer 9

Ick, Water heat, Stress level

Answer 10

phospate is another thing you can test...
it can be pretty bad for the fish if it's too high.