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6 answers

In the spring you will need to spray with a systemic designed especially for borers. If you are going to treat it yourself, make sure you cover your skin everywhere as the chemical can burn or be absorbed transdermally. It took me two very throrough sprayings at 14 days apart. It needs to be done BEFORE they blossom!

Good luck.

2006-12-10 12:51:49 · answer #1 · answered by Patricia D 6 · 2 0

You are in a very tough situation here. Once borers drill into the branches and trunks of the tree it is very hard to eradicate them totally. If it is only one branch, cut it off and burn it. If you should have to treat with insecticides look to use "lindane oil" available at most farm supply stores. Mix up a batch and spray directly into the holes made by the culprits. Be sure and read the mixing procedures and doses needed, and follow them to a "T". Repeat again two weeks later. Once borers enter a tree they are so deep down in the heart of the tree it is hard to get at them. I have found lindane oil to be the best bet. Good luck.

2006-12-10 19:01:52 · answer #2 · answered by ♥Billy Ray♥ Valentine 7 · 1 0

Mr. Valentine is correct in recommending Lindane... it's very effective in controlling borers that attack a variety of fruit trees. In California, Lindane is becoming very difficult to obtain. IF you cannot find this product, here are a couple of alternatives you might want to consider;

Preventive sprays of insecticides, applied to coincide with periods when adults are laying eggs on the bark, are the standard control practice in controlling these borers. Certain formulations of carbaryl (Sevin), permethrin, and esfenvalerate (sold as BUG-B-GONE by Ortho) are labeled for this purpose.

These sprays are applied as drenching treatments to the lower trunk, usually beginning in late June or early July. One treatment usually is sufficient in lightly infested plantings. However, a second treatment, applied about one month later, may be needed in plantings where the peach tree borer is especially damaging and abundant.

Another alternative is to consider using insect parasitic nematodes. These nematodes are applied as a drench to the lower trunk and soil during periods in fall or spring when soil temperatures are at least 55 degrees F. The nematodes will then infect the borer larvae and kill them.

Below is a site that sells the "Steinernema feltiae" species of nematodes that you might be interested in using to control this particular borer;

http://www.livingwithbugs.com/ent_nems.html

Hope this information helps. GOOD LUCK!

(certified professional crop advisor with a degree in plant science)

2006-12-11 20:54:29 · answer #3 · answered by jazzmaninca2003 5 · 0 0

Hi,
I agree with Pat D. above, and I would also do a couple of "soil drenches" with a product I use for several of my outdoor plantings.
I use this systemic soil drench concentrate made by Bayer.
I mix it fairly strong in a 5 gal. bucket and pour it around the base of the tree or bushes/vines I'm treating.
It works great for the honeysuckles against aphids and such.
It works great for the other bushes that get treated.
I would use it on most any plantings I have, provided that the plantings are going to be eaten by humans.
I believe it is called "Advantage", or "Advance".
Start your drenching just as your trees are breaking dormancy, then again after they leaf-out.
This protection/treatment supposed to last 1 year.
Hope this helps,
Dave

2006-12-10 13:26:28 · answer #4 · answered by what'sthis4 4 · 0 0

my uncle tried some dish soap and water in a spray bottle once he said it kept the bugs away. they don't like the way it taste. don't drench it. just spay a mist.

2006-12-10 07:21:11 · answer #5 · answered by loretta 4 · 0 0

By boring them in return!

2006-12-10 06:55:25 · answer #6 · answered by Sami V 7 · 0 4

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