1996 Chevy Tahoe brake problem!!?

Question

I do have rear drum brakes which was also replaced. New drums, wheel cylinders, and shoes. There is no leak in the system. Everything from the master cylinder to each wheel was bled over and over again. I have replaced everything in the brake system that I could. Unless I'm forgetting something. And yes the rear brakes were properly adjusted. I just simply out of ideas and still no brakes. Thanks for all the help. And if you have any more ideas I would certainly appreciated it. Thanks again.

Answer 1

Check the brake proportioning valve. It adjusts braking power between front and rear.

Answer 2

ok you have done everything. was this the original problem to start with ??? if it was and the problem is still there you have missed something. i dont believ the perportioning valve will give you a soft pedal, usually this is only caused by mis-adjusted rear brakes or a defective master cylinder. what you can do in this situation is pump up the brake pedal several times, hold it down and have someone pop off the master cylinder cover, then release the pedal, if you see a gyser come up from the front or rear reservoirs then the is still air in the system in that area.....also do you have a trailer brake thing in your cab, make sure its not leaking there..................that is a good point about the anti lock brakes, you could have air in the system there, i am sorry as i completely forgot about ABS. let us know if you have ABS or rear anti-lock only

Answer 3

Perhaps you are comparing this newly worked system to the way it felt before. People want a good confident feeling about their brakes, but sometimes when you change parts the feeling changes. This may not indicate a problem. First, be sure you aren't using any fluid. You might want to check this daily for a while. Do the brakes stop the vehicle? First step very hard on the brakes while you are stopped. This will find the weak spot if you have one. (You should do this occasionally with any older car.) Next find a place where you can really get on them while driving without creating a hazard and see if they lock the wheels or if they are antilock, do they perform as they should? Does the car pull to one side or the other? Then compare the pedal feel to other like vehicles with about the same mileage on them. Maybe have someone who isn't used to driving this vehicle drive it to see if they detect a problem with the way the brakes feel. Sponginess is sometimes a relative thing.

Answer 4

if you've replaced the master cylinder you will have needed to check the brake peddle push rod to master cylinder piston Clarence the piston may not be able to return properly in master cylinder causing a bad pedal.they usually 1-1.5 millimeter Clarence.iv also come across cars with the wrong size wheel cylinders fitted 3/4 as opposed to 5/8. if everything OK though you may need to try a pressure bleeding kit or even leaving the pedal wedged on over night. you could even have faulty new wheel cylinders i haven't had any trouble with abs but there's all ways a first time. good luck. clamp off the front & rear brake hoses with brake hose clamps first at furthest point from the drums & callipers and try the pedal if they improve try clamping at end nearest drum & callipers if improves could still be problem in drum or callipers keep trying util you have eliminated hoses and callipers and so on you may find it dosnt improve no matter what you do which could point to mastercylinder area.

Answer 5

when you bled the brakes did you pump them up and bled them with the key off. and do you have anti lock brakes no it if you do then there is a different way to bled them.

Answer 6

what was the original /actual problem? Did replacing with new parts cause the problem to get worse? need more & detailed info.