How much, on average, would a garage charge to replace the oil pan of a 1991 Ford F250, 4.9L, automatic, 2WD?

Question

I priced an oil pan and gasket at a couple of my local auto parts stores at a range of anywhere from $125 to $150. A local garage owner tried to say the job would cost me $475.00 with parts and labour. I know labour costs run high in some places in the USA, but not in this area I'm talking about. I also realise this is a messy job most mechanics really wouldn't want to get into if they had the choice, but his quote and the price I found for the parts alone make up a big difference. We're talking almost $350 in labour the way I figure it, unless of course there are more parts needed that I didn't count. Then again, could this guy be trying to hose me? Thanks!

Answer 1

I don't know the configuration of the engine in the F250, but it COULD be easy if the pan is accessible: disconnect any possible oil sensors, drain the oil, undo the bolts, clean everything up, install the new pan with the new gasket and appropriate sealant, an hour tops.

On the other hand, if there are chassis members or exhaust pipes running under the engine and bad access to the pan, it could mean undoing a lot of stuff before you even get to the pan.

I'd suggest crawling under and taking a look, and try to guess how much junk needs to be moved to get the pan off. If there's nothing there, he's trying to hose you.

Then call three other mechanics and ask them; or call the Ford dealer and ask for the "book rate" for the job. If they all say the same thing it's probably not BS.

Answer 2

You'll need the pan, a gasket, an oil filter, and oil. If the engine is fuel injected, the labor time is 4.5 hours. Carbed is 3.3 hours, according to Alldata. Its tight, but this is how you get it out. Unbolt the engine mounts from the frame, jack the engine up, and place 2x4 pieces between the mounts and frame. Let the engine down. Now unbolt the trans mount from the crossmember and jack the trans all the way up to the floor. You should be able to slip the pan out the back. You may have to turn the crank to clear the front throws with the front of the pan. Get a FelPro gasket with what they call Pro Studs. They are barbed plastic guide pins that you thread in to the pan bolt holes, and then will hold up the gasket, pan , and reenforcement bars all at once so you can get the bolts started. Nothing to it.

Answer 3

You cannot remove the sump on this motor without removing the crankshaft pulley. There is no need to take the sump off anyway. Re fasten it up DO NOT overtighten the bolts. Fill with some cheap oil to about 1/4" below the full mark, add a can of engine flush and run the car for a couple of days. Drain with the oil hot and leave for 15 minutes. Then fit a new sump plug and seal and fill to the full mark with a good quality oil. Check for leaks at the filtre and sump joints, engine running and nip up if required On no account use diesel!!!!

Answer 4

Not sure what shop rates are in USA but price sounds close to me, if that's including pan & gasket, oil and oil-filter I say ''throw in a lube job with that price'' and leave it there.
took me 6 hours to do one in my driveway with my friend's 92 Ford F250 without air tools and a hoist.

What was needed was:

(1) up to 6 litres / quarts motor oil
(2) oil filter
(3) cat litter (to soak up spilled oil)
(4) gaskets
(5) gasket sealant
(6) oil pan (we got a used one from wrecking yard)
(7) new drain plug w/O-ring

Answer 5

It just the oil pan dude! Just drain it, drop it, put a gasket on it then replace the pain. Simple enough as long as you have a garage. Just buy a Chiltons and see how easy it is, plus they are always good to have.

Answer 6

not enough clearance even with motor jacked up. have to unbolt from trans and lift it a bit.