Ball Python Help?

Question

Hi Everyone,
We Have Just gotten a 2 foot Ball Python Feeding day is coming up this saturday... We have read many books an info on line but we are still hoping things will go smooth. If anyone has any ideas to be sure things go smoothly please let us know.

Answer 1

Hi,

Congratulations first of all on your first (I am assuming) ball python. You certainly made a good choice as they are great beginner reptiles. First, I will state that if you just brought it home this week, then I would give it about a week to two weeks to settle in. In this period of time, I would NOT handle him or spend much time around his enclosure as all of this could cause stress which might delay his willingness to eat.

Secondly, understand that this time of year is typical for ball pythons to have a short fasting period. Sometimes, a fasting period could be 6-8 months, especially if older. This isn't a problem, however, you should monitor him if this occurs and make sure that he is not losing body weight. If not, then there is really nothing to worry about.

Thirdly, you want to ensure that your temperature gradients are proper. You don't want to allow your snake to be too cool and you dont want him too warm. You want to make sure that your snake has the ability to choose his body temperature through thermoregulation.

You will want a basking temperature of between 88-92 degrees and an ambient temperature of about 78-80 degrees. You also want to make sure that you have proper humidity which you will want to use a hygrometer...doNOT guess. The proper humidity should be between 50-60% and raised to about 70-75% during shedding times. After the shed is complete, then lower the humidity back down to the 50-60% range. Improper temperature and humidity can result in an upper respiratory infection which could be fatal if left untreated.

Make sure that the substrate doesn't get wet and stay that way, as you don't want your snake forming water blisters on its skin (this isn't typically a problem unless the issue is corrected) so make sure that he can stay dry. Having a water bowl large enough for him to soak in is a plus as well.

Be sure to give your snake at least 24-48 hours after he eats before you handle him again. If you handle him too shortly afterwards, he might just return your rodent to you...not pleasant..trust me.

The upside to this is that the snake is a little older now and is probably used to being handled. Therefore you dont have the hatchling shyness deal too much. Although he will most likely act a little shy until he gets used to you. After he builds a better comfort level, he will start to explore some and move more when you handle him.

Good luck with your ball python and if you have any other questions, feel free to email me at [e-mail]

Take care,

Chris

Answer 2

I dont know what you have read but when you feed it make sure it is in a different tank besides the tank it lives in it is never a good idea to feed a ball in the tank it lives in. This will reduce the risk fo you getting bit. Even though balls are not prone to bite. its just a good idea to do with any snake cause they see your hand reaching in the cage and they might think that it is food and strike. Also keep an eye on the snake as it eats. Cause mice and rat both can claw the snake and injure or kill it. This is more of a problem with rats cause they are more aggressive. You can feed him frozen or live food live is heathier and and frozen if warmed proberly is safer. It would be a good idea to find out if he was eating live or frozen before you got him. Cause if he was eating frozen and you feed him live it could give him mouth blisters from not being use to striking not always but can happen. If he was eating live food then he may not want the frozen no matter how warm you get it or even if you use feeding thongs to make it seem alive. I have this problem with one now. he will only eat it if its alive. this is because they are constricters and preferr to kill it. Ball Pythons can be picky eaters so be aware of that. And they also go through stages where they may skip a couple of feedings before eating agian but generally will start eating soon mostly around the time they shed not always but sometimes I havent had this happen much. Like I said I am not sure what you have read but this I hope helps you. also be aware Ball python have a tendency to become obese so do not "power feed" never a good idea also feed your snake in the evening this is heathier they can get sick if you feed them during the day

Answer 3

Hi! I raised ball pythons and acclimated some interesting wild caught morphs.

First of all, please don't fall into a "this snake must eat today because it's feeding day!" mindset. Your snake may eat on the first try, no problem, but snakes respond to new environments differently, and as ball pythons are on the shy end of the python temperment spectrum, it's not unusual for a ball to go off it's feed for a week or two, or even a month when it's moved. And they can do so and remain quite healthy. I've had wild collected balls that took a month to eat. When they finally deigned to do so, they made up for their fast with a vengance. As long as your python has an appropriately warm and clean home and clean water available at all times, a skipped meal or two isn't going to harm him.

Ball pythons become prey imprinted. They will be accustomed to one specific type of prey and refuse all others until they become reasonably hungry. If you can find out what prey he was fed and in what form before you got him, that will make things easier. Some people feed their balls mice and some feed them rat pups. They might look similar, but your snake knows the difference. It generally took 2-3 weeks for me to switch balls over to a new prey as opposed to boa constrictors and burms, which will eat just about anything they can overpower. And a snake raised on frozen/thawed prey will sometimes refuse live prey at first and vice versa.

After you offer the prey, step back and be quiet and still. Watching from across the room is better than hovering. Offering the prey in the evening helps--ball pythons are nocturnal by instinct although those in captivity will generally eat at any time you offer prey after they are comfortable in their surroundings. And give him plenty of time to eat--sometimes they will watch their prey or scent around it with their tongue for a while before they eat.

Balls can be slow to start feeding but they are such a nice little snake in appearance and temperment that it's worth a little patience on our part. And once they start eating well, they are hogs! Good luck with your snake, and I think that things will work out just fine for you. Ball pythons are wonderful pets--you chose well.

Answer 4

the best thing to do is to give him about a week to adjust to his new enclosure, then go ahead and feed him. if he won't eat then try afew days later. you want to keep the temp in the day about 84-86 and at night keep the temp at 80-82, this is during the cooler months and during the warmer months keep the day temp at 88 and night have it at 82-84. make sure that you have an under tank heater and the top light like the uvb light and the heat bulb. do not use a heat rock because it will burn them and when that happens it will make the snake shy away from the food. if they burn them selves they will not eat. i have 2 of them and they eat every other week. also you can try smaller rats for the snake to see if he will eat it an if he does then feed this size for about 2 weeks and then go up the next size of rat. no need to worry about if he does not eat right away just as long as you keep water in the tank for him, ball pythons are known to go almost 2yrs without eating, so if he doesn't eat right away for you, you will know why. my 2 are about 4-5ft long and they are the most tamed snakes you can have. they are the best for kids to start off with. they are easy to care for. good luck. you can email me if you have any other questions about your snake, [e-mail]

Answer 5

Most of the information provided is very useful. "Power feeding" is a sure fire way to send your pet to an early grave however. It causes the body to try to grow faster then some of the other systems can handle. 2 - 4 appropriately sized prey items a month are more then sufficient to healthily sustain your pet. Consider how much food they would be able to catch in the wild.

Answer 6

Give him at least a couple weeks to get used to his new surroundings, first off. You don't want to add stress to an already stressful situation. Once he is well acclimated, then try something unintimidating like a mouse. That should get him started. Once he starts taking mice aggressively a 2-footer should either be fed 2-3 mice in a feeding or possibly move to young rats.

Answer 7

i had a colombian boa. first time i fed it, it wouldn't eat. but then i noticed that it eats in the dark. put the mouse (if you want your snake to be tame, i recommend warming up a frozen mouse) in a visible spot away from the bedding, so the python doesnt swallow the bedding with it and leave the room, turn off the lights. also make sure the temperature in the tank is what it's supposed to be. it also controls the snakes apetite

Answer 8

Power feed is what ive done with all 4 of my balls and just give them a week or two to get used to his new tank but after that two foot who knows start with 3 mice and go from there i always feed live many people will tell you feed frozen but just watch the feeding if your doing live and make sure that when the mouse or rat is wrapped up isn't bitting the snake if the scratching the snake thats fine there claws wont break the skin but there teeth will and if that happens some snakes wont eat again.....Frozen is easy dethaw and use some prongs and shake the dead thing in front of the snake till he strikes

Answer 9

You have to make sure you move him/her to a separate box or enclosure to feed it, so when another feeding time comes around, it wont bite you when you stick your hand in the tank thinkin you are food.