First, you should decide upon what type of stain to use. If it is a nice wood type, such as oak, cherry, walnut, etc, you may not want to stain the table. Rememeber, when you seal the wood, using a varnish, or polyurethane sealer, it will darken the wood considerably. Perhaps you don't even need to stain the wood. Most people stain wood to try and match orther furniture, or because they find the shade/color of the stain combined with the type/color of the wood to be pleasing.
So, if you decide to stain, select the type. You can either apply with a brush or a clean cloth. Using a cloth saves brush clean-up and will provide as good a coverage as a brush. You choice. You can apply the stain, leave it to dry, or wipe it down to lighten the color. Conversely, you can add another coat after the first has dried to darken the color. The next step would be to seal the project. Stain leaves wood looking a bit dull, and a sealer will both protect the wood and provide a certain degree of sheen. You should decide the level of sheen you want before selecting you finish. Semil-gloss gives a duller sheen, and satin gives a highly shiny finish. Whatever you decide, stay with it. If you mix one coat of polyurethane with a coat of varnish, the two will interact and you could have a mess on your hands. Anyway, I would wipe down the table with steel wool (maybe "000" grade) after the first coat, and then maybe go to a finer grade for the next coat. Sandpaper can be used, but most people apply too much pressure and wind up discoloring the piece to a chalky white which has to be corrected with another coat. The steel wool will concentrate on removing any tiny bumps or ridges without damaging the general area ( don't press too hard with steel wool or it too will discolor). Depending up the amount of sealant you desire, three coats should suffice. The final step is once the finish has completed cured, apply a good floor paste wax. Apply with a soft cloth and butt when dry. Another coat should be enough. it will give the piece an even color and create and nice, deep finish.
Good luck
2006-12-04 03:40:02
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answer #1
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answered by stretch 7
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The one thing you didn't say is whether or not it already has a finish on it that you want to stain over or if you want to remove it first. If you have some kind of stain/varnish on the piece, then you will need to strip it first to get that varnish off the wood. If you don't, the new stain will not penetrate to the wood. If the piece is already stripped and down to the bare wood, sand it to make sure it is good and smooth first. Some woods, such as maple and oak, look good with just a polyurethane over the bare wood. If you do want to stain it, then get a good oil based stain such as Minwax and apply a coat with a brush used for oil paints/stains. Let it sit for about 10 minutes and then wipe off the excess. Let it dry for about 8 hours and then do it again if you want it to get darker.
After applying the stain, let the piece dry for about 24 hours. Then apply an oil based polyurethane. Apply it using a brush that is used for oil paint/varnish (a natural bristle brush). Apply it in a thin coat and in one direction. Going back and forth with the brush will cause air bubbles to form in the in the finish. Let this dry for about 8 hours and then use a 0000 steel wool and go over it light to rough the surface so the next coat will stick. Make sure you use a tack cloth after the steel wool. Apply a few more coats in the same manner and you should come out with a wonderful looking piece!
2006-12-04 04:14:40
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answer #2
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answered by joem_1701 3
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This Site Might Help You.
RE:
Refinsihing a wood table???
I have an old really old table that I'm trying to refinish. I used wood fill to fix up all the dings and sanded it down yesterday. How do I stain it and do I need to varnish it after?
2015-08-24 11:34:17
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answer #3
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answered by Edythe 1
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you have to make sure that you sand it smooth because any imperfection will show when you stain the piece. chances are were you filled in the dings the stain may not absorb the same way so you need to adjust how thick you apply around the dings . apply the stain with a brush and rub off with a cloth . Two maybe three coats will be needed and a varnish after it dry will protect all you hard work. Use a latex varnish it dry fast and looks great .
good luck
2006-12-04 05:32:50
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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Read the label on the stain you choose. With some, you can brush it on, but others recommend that you use a rag and apply it in circular motions. Whether you put a varnish on is up to you. Again, look at the label of the stain.
2006-12-04 03:17:05
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answer #5
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answered by Bestie 6
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you can buy a 1 step stain that has both in it which only requires one application, or you can stain it then add varnish or polyurethane. depends on how shiny you want the product. usually 2 coats is adequate.
2006-12-04 04:50:11
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answer #6
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answered by hankette 1
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I would suggest staining it, then putting on a clear-coat to make it shiny, and protect the surface.
Good luck!
2006-12-04 03:16:25
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answer #7
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answered by gatesfam@swbell.net 4
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well, i would suggest going to home depot and talking with someone in that respective department if there is one nearby. they were really helpful when i was working on a similar project.
2006-12-04 03:17:03
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answer #8
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answered by mattchue 1
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