If this is not a real severe leak, here is what you can do! First check under the car in area where the water from teh a/c drips out when using it in hot weather. If tehheater core is leaking, even slowly, - it will drip out the drain line (this works in heater and a/c use alike (a/c runs &removes humidity when heater or defrost works also),-- if you find any water there, - pick up a little on your fingertip, -- put it to your tongue, - if it tastes sort of "neutral", - it is just water,. However if it has a bitter (strong anti-freeze), - or "sweetish taste", - very thin mix of anti-freeze! Note"--, anti freeze (in quantity is poision), - so don't drink a quart of it!! A mere "taste" of it won't, -- at least hasn't killed me in 55 years as a mechanic! If yiou smell a sweetish odor similar to "burn't candy" (sugar).. it is vaporizing and coming out inside passenger cxomaprtment!
Ok, - back to the cure! If the leak is very slow, - so maybe it "drains the water reserve "bottle" (tank), -- every day or two, -- or even requires a quart or so to replentish the radiator, - as well as "fill the reservoir (tank). Go to auto supply store and get a "tube" of ALUMASEAL, -- (don't accept something else said to be "as good as")! Keep going to different places till you get "alumaseal"! While engine is cold, remove the cap, "top off water", - and run engine till the thermostat opens up, -- when it does, the upper radiator hose will start to run hot water through! At this point, remove the cap and put all the alumaseal into the filler neck (a little water wil have run out as it heated up). - if not down enough to put it in while engine running, you can shut it off, - wait half a minute or so and let the water stabalize, - it will now be low enough to let you put powder in! (NOTE: the instructions are wrirten on side of plastic "tube" it comes in )! Now start up teh engine, - fill the reserve tank back up again, and go drive the car fot 10 miles or so, -- it should now have plugged up the leak, - if not it will in near future as you drive!
This is a good product I have been using for about 40 years, it works prety good in plugging leaks, -- and if it doesn't do the job, at least it hasn't hurt the engine or cooling system parts (don't use half a dozen tubes of course!!
2006-12-04 02:21:41
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answer #1
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answered by guess78624 6
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If you had a major leak at the Water Pump it is quite possible that other leaks might not have shown up on the initial pressure test - path of least resistance and all that. However, if they had done their job right they would have done a second pressure test AFTER replacing the WP.
If your Grand Am has the 3.1L V6 engine then I can almost guarantee your lower intake manifold gasket is leaking and probably has been for years. ALL of them do eventually. It is quite possible to miss this on a Cooling System Pressure Test but it is unbelievably obvious to check visually since the leak is external and always occurs in the same places. At my shop every single GM car with this engine gets visually checked for a lower intake gasket leak. It's just SOP.
Timing cover gasket? Don't see many of those leaking but I suppose it is possible. I suggest you have the shop Pressure Test it and SHOW YOU where it is leaking while they are testing it.
2006-12-04 12:55:07
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answer #2
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answered by Naughtums 7
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It doesn't sound as if this garage is very experienced in auto repairs. The system should have been pressurized to determine where the leak is coming from. That should have solved any diagnostic questions. After the first repair was completed, the system should have been pressurized again to verify that the repair was complete and that no other problems were present.
I would get away from that repair facility as soon as possible.
2006-12-04 10:25:43
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answer #3
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answered by jarhed 5
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first off it cant be the timing cause oil works it due to moving parts like timing gears,in less you have a belt then nothing,so i would get someone Else to take a look they might be trying to get over on you.
2006-12-04 10:18:24
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answer #4
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answered by dwayne g 1
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