If you use a angle measurer for corners for crown molding and use a compound miter chart as reference, how do you get the precise angles required on your saw? For example, if you outside corner is measured and the chart says to have the MITER at 31.17 and the BEVEL at 33.53, how do you accurately get those cuts on your compound miter without positive stops. I can't see how you could get those various cuts 100% accurate on your saw.
2006-11-30 16:50:49 · 5 answers · asked by antonio v 1 in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
always ADD 1/8 of an inch to your cuts. this compensates for the "kerf" or width of the blade
2006-11-30 16:54:18 · answer #1 · answered by George 4 · 0⤊ 2⤋
Don't use the compound miter. The best way to cut crown is to figure the distance the top of the crown sits away from the wall, and put a stop an equal distance away from the fence on the base of your saw. Then cut the crown upside down. Visualize the base as the ceiling and the fence as the wall. It means your cuts are backwards. If you are making a cut for the left side on the wall, you cut the right side in the saw. Imagine if you were running baseboard against the ceiling. I know that sounds silly, but maybe that helps people visualize it.
So if you have an outside corner that is a bit under 90, due to drywall corner bead, cut it a bit over 45. To be precise, if you come with 89 as the angle, subtract 89 from 180 and bisect the difference, so you have 45.5. You may want to experiment with some short scraps, to get a good fit. Inside corners cope, like baseboard. On coped crown, you will find you have to backcut the piece quite a bit. A rasp and bit of sand paper can clean up the cut if you don't get it right the first time.
Crown isn't that hard, it just takes time and patience. Don't use the compound miter, be patient, and think it through.
Good luck
2006-12-01 02:50:01 · answer #2 · answered by robling_dwrdesign 5 · 0⤊ 1⤋
Set your saw to the approximate angle as mentioned bu the guide. Then cut two pieces that would fit around a corner and check them for fit. Micro adjust your saw until you have a fit that you can accept. I don't think there is a such thing as a perfect (100percent accurate) compound miter joint, just some are better than others. I usually start with a 34 degree swivel to the saw and a 30 degree tilt. That gets me close enough to adjust from there. The one thing to watch for is the "slop" in your saw. Even when your saw is locked on a certain angle, there can be maybe a degree of play in the angle. to compensate and get more consistent cuts, I will apply slight pressure to the left, on the handle, as I am making the cut. It is a minor detail, but it is the Small things that can make a big difference.
2006-12-01 08:13:50 · answer #3 · answered by tmarschall 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
You probably cannot get your cuts 100% accurate, but you can get very close without positive stops. Make a mark on the miter saw with a fine felt tip marker at the above mentioned angles. That should put you within 1/32 of perfection, which is definitely manageable.
2006-12-01 05:05:49 · answer #4 · answered by highlander 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
All good answers-upsidedown and backwards
2006-12-01 11:21:15 · answer #5 · answered by johnnydean86 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋