whats the easyest way to change the brake fluid ?

Question

For a 04 Ninja zx6rr

Answer 1

First, I'd get a friend. You can do it yourself this way, but it's easier with a friend.

Then I'd get some DOT 3 brake fluid.

Then I'd get a Mityvac, or an Actron vacuum pump brake bleeder kit (or some souped up version of it).

Then I'd get a Motion Pro Hydraulic Brake Bleeder , which in my opinion works better than speed bleeders. Speed bleeders have a tendency to corrode, and get stuck. This one doesn't attach permamently, and therefore I think it's cooler.

Then...follow what this guy did in the webbikeworld write-up (see link below). I followed his steps, and it's pretty much brainless. Why re-type what he already wrote.

What I'd recommend in addition to his comments is as follows. First, I'd recommend you grease up the fittings around the threads. That'll help prevent air from seeping in. But you have to grease *all* the way around the threads. 2nd, I would also add a dab of grease or petroleum jelly around the seal of the vacuum jar. I found that increased the vacuum's effectiveness significantly. 3rd...I recommend you be *very* careful not to get brake fluid on your paint job, as it will *quickly* take the paint off your bike.

As for how often to go through this mess, my recommendation is that you do it at least every other year, preferably once a year. Yes, brake fluid can essentially perform its duty longer, but it is highly corrosive, and hydroscopic, which means that while you leave it in there, it will eventually 1) corrode the brake reservoir housing and master cylinder, and 2) absorb enough moisture from the air to affect braking performance. Corrosion is the real pricey consequence, as eventually you may notice the brake seizing.

A note I want to add regarding comments suggesting folks should let things "naturally bleed out." The absolute worst thing one can do is leave air in their brake line. And the absolute easiest way to get air in your brake line is by letting it naturally drain out, or by not paying attention to whether the reservoir is filled with new fluid as you drain the old fluid out. If you notice that your brakes are considerably mushy after your fluid change, chances are you left air in the line. Air compresses as the brake lever is squeezed, leading to the mushy feeling...and no braking power. If you choose to do it without a vacuum bleeder, it's definitely a 2-man job. I would use the brake lever itself to push the fluid out. but one person has to be ready to close the bleeder screw before the brake lever is released, otherwise you'll suck air into the system. It's kind of a pain to coordinate.

Answer 2

Well, Im not sure why you changing it. It is usually great for several years.
But the best way is to disconnect the brake lines at the caliper let it naturally drain out. connect everything and filler it up.

Then you need to bleed the brakes, with the system full of fluid and sealed pump up the brakes and crack the bleeder valve open to releave the air. you will need to do this until there isnt any air coming out of the valve. and makes sure to fill the resivoir up after ever time. and be sure to do front and back calipers.

Answer 3

The normal way of changing brake fluid is to bleed it out. That means to put new fluid in at the top and drain it out at the bottom. If you try to empty the brake system before refilling, you might run into problems. Buy and inexpensive pressure bleeder at an auto parts store.

Answer 4

I use a MityVac and can do it by myself.

Use the Mity Vac to siphon out the old fluid in the master cyl. Refill it. As you draw the fluid out of the bleeder valve you'll see it change from dark to clear and you'll know its changed.

Cove all your painted parts with plastic before opening the master cyl.

Answer 5

disconnect the bleeder and let it gravity bleed.

Answer 6

pay a mechanic....hey, you asked easiest, not cheapest!