My car's battery needs a jump if I leave the key in the ignition, even for a few minutes?

Question

My car is a 2001 Honda van (Odessy). Is it that the battery is going dead or is it the connection to my starter? If the key is removed promptly when car is turned off, it'll start fine, but if the key was left in (to listen to music, or just key in ignition without any function) Then I need a jump.
Are these signs of a battery needing change, or is there something more?

Answer 1

Your battery is weak and time for replacement. Have a load test done on it (this is where they apply a load to 1/2 of the cold crank rating for 15 seconds) if it drops below 9.6 volts during this period your battery has no holdong capacity, (ususally due to sulphated plates) if you do lots of short trips with your car this is extremely hard on the battery as it does not fully recharge after the heavy draw from starting.

Answer 2

Does your ceiling light use electricity when you leave the room (if you don't turn the switch to "off")??

Well the vehicle won't use electricity if the key (ignition switch ) is off either! But it will continue to use power in a number of circuits if the key is "on" in either accessorey or ignition position! It also uses a lot less power in the "accessory" position, (than the "ign" position), since the heater (in most cars anyway) is out of circuit, along with the computer & headlights (if one of those that runs the lights when the ignition is on), - this is supposed to be a 'safety" innovation, (but it "sucks power" rapidly if engne not running), --or if alternator "quits", -(you won't go far before the battery is dead)!

The starter itself could be wearing a little bit, - and require more "amps" to crank the engine than when new, but otherwise has nothing to do with battery going dead! But your battery could be getting near "expired condition", - and it doesn't hold a lot of "power" anymore! As battery ages, it builds up a kind of "sludge" in the bottom of cell chambers, - it is called sulphation ("decayed" lead), - as this happens there is a little less lead on the "plates of battery" available to hold "charge", and finally it gets to point that it "shorts out" cells, and then the battery won't hold a charge for long, -- or if a little worse won't even take a charge anymore!


So I would take the "car" to a place that sells batteries (like wal-mart, - ot AutoZone type stores), -- they can check the battery and see if it is on the way out,--Since battery could be "weak" by this time! Also I always buy the very biggest battery that I can get to fit in the battery compartment! This is especially important if you are in "cold country" as it requires more "amps" to crank a "stiff cold" engine, -- and if it is cold enough, the "cold" decreases the amount of "amps" that the battery is capable of providing. So it will naturally start the engine more easily on real cold mornings -with "big battery" (in Wisc. for instance it could be between -30 & -40 degrees)..... The manufacturer generally puts in the smallest battery that "will do the job" to keep down expenses!

Last of all,- the bigger the battery, the longer it will run accessories when the key is not in "off position", -- "off position" actually turns everything off! All that can operate is the 'courtesy lights inside the car", and the "idiot" (key in ignition switch warning)! Some things can still be turned on manually like the parking lights (& and headlights will work manually on some cars with the ignition off), - also 40-way flashers! Everything else is pretty much out of circuit, -with exception of direct circuits on the radio (for program memory, and clock), - and computer, - to remember "driving characteristics" of the car! Plus maybe the "anti-theft alarm" on some newer cars! If you disconnect (or the battery goes totally dead),- these programs information will be lost, - and if right kind of car, you can't even get the car to run, (as it concludes you are a "thief trying to steal the car")! If this happens you have to re-program radio and anti-theft system, - computer will re-program as you drive the car, with the "non-default" information all over again!

DON'T just go out and buy a new battery,-- or a new alternator, till you have the total electrical charging system checked out somewhere. You may end up with a battery you "didn't need", - or an alternator "you dind't need", - since a "bad battery" does not nescessariuly need a new alternator (also)- to charge right!--Nor does a bad alternator nescessarily require a new battery to work right either ! I assume you asked for answer to this, because you don't have" indefinate amount of money" to spend,-- or you would have taken it to the "agency" and let them "sort it out"!

Answer 3

Sounds like you need to replace your battery. Honda is an extreme great auto. What usually happens, battery from new sulfates everyday throughout the life of the battery. Also, demands and usage plays a big roll too. Extreme cold weather are also very hard on batteries. Rule of thumb, replace an auto battery every 3 years. Anything beyond this time period, your placing you and your family at high risk of battery failure unexpectedly.

Answer 4

It sound like you need a new battery. One way to find out is to test the battery using an ammeter. Your local garage should be able to do this easily.

Answer 5

It definitely sounds like that you need to have your electrical system checked out for possible shorts! You may also want to check under your steering column to make sure the wiring is not freyed or loose from your ignition switch.