How can I balance authenticity and SCA traditon in a Pelican cloak for the persona of a Conquest-era Norman?

Question

I play in the SCA and I've been asked to make a Pelicaning cloak for a man who plays a Conquest-era Norman (1066-1086). Things like the Bayeux Tapestry don't seem to show decorated cloaks of any kind and this gentle is very authenticity concious. He is both a knight and a count already, so higher status garb would be appropriate for him.

I'd like to embroider something, but I'm not sure how to balance what may be conflicting interests. I know that the English were known for thier embroidery and that later Normans were known for elaborate beading and embroidery (all that Romanesque statuary in France and the Coronation mantle of Roger II from 1133), but I don't know know about this narrow time frame.

Would a half circle mantle be appropriate? Or if I use a rectangular shoulder-pinned mantle could I embroider the short ends?

Answer 1

Super question.

This is the essence of all SCA garb; it's always got to be at least somewhat modern, if for no other reason than our garb is made of contemporary materials (e.g., even if I spin my own wool, it's wool produced in the 21st C., not the 13th.).

So, it's all about compromise, whether we like it or no.

Having said that, I'd resist the temptation to do a half-circle; these seem to be the province of the clergy at that time. The rectangular cloak might be a better choice.

Here's what I would consider: I'd do the cloak out of rich, supple wool, a little too heavy for dress weight, but still soft and fluid. I would painstakingly blanket-stitch the hems with twisted silk thread (buttonhole twist would be ideal). Any good hunting color would be appropriate.

Then, to add the necessary Pelican touch, I'd go look at what Raymond's Quiet press has to offer in penannular brooches. He has done considerable research, and many of his ornaments are made from direct castings of original works. Here's a link to a page on his website that has a Pelican brooch; scroll down for item EL-4. He has many more, especially Pelican/Knight pendants.

Good luck; I am sure your lucky Pelican will appreciate your generous care on his behalf!