Is it easy to replace the top part of a lavatory?

Question

The top part of my toilet (the bit with the ball cock in) is leaking. Is it easy to replace? Only I'm renting and hate workmen! Can I replace the top bit without needing an entire new loo?

It's leaking from the base of the top bit. Is there some sort of plastic hole filler I can seal it with? Or I think I'll just put a bucket there lol:)

Answer 1

If you are renting it should be the responsibility of the landlord- not you. Call and tell him you need a repair.

Answer 2

Since you do not want strangers in your place here is what you need to do. First determine where it is leaking. I read an answer on here where they asked if the flapper was leakin. This would only leak into the bowl and then refil the tank when it was low. It may be leaking thru the tank bolts. They secure the tank(back part) to the bowl. There are 4 of them and it is possible the rubber washers are just bad. It is also possible the float is not set low enough allowing water to run out of the handle. determine what type of leak you have then visit Lowes or HD and ask for help when buying the approiate part. A common talk weighs about maybe 30 lbs. If you can lift that no matter what the problem is you can fix it. Don't forget to remove all water from the tank. Use a sponge to get it all. Good luck.

Answer 3

It is easy, go to the homecenter and get a Fluidmaster toilet valve and flapper and a flexible toilet supply line. Shut off the water, flush the toilet, completely. Take a large sponge and soak up the remaining water in the tank. All you need are decent pliers. Make double sure the water is off. The tube that connects the toilet tank to the valve has a nut at the top, take it off counterclockwise, do the same at the bottom of the tube, try to pull the tube off at the top, if it won't move you will have to cut the tube. Pull the top off and then pull up on the bottom to clear the valve. Unscrew the nut directly under the tank, place a towel or shallow pan underneath, in case you missed any water. Go inside the tank and pull up on the valve with the ball, gently. Remove the small tube that connects to the overflow. Take the whole part out. Look in the bottom of the tank, the rubber piece that let's the water out is the flapper, disconnect it from the handle and take it out. Take the new valve and place the large rubber washer on the bottom thread with the beveled side down, connect the small overflow tube at the top, securely. Place the valve in the tank where the old valve came out. Take the large, flat nut and, carefully thread it to the bottom of the valve, tighten it securely, don't try to kill it! Connect the overflow tube to the overflow with the clip. Connect the new flapper to the handle, place the flapper in the tank and hang it on the tabs at the bottom of the overflow. Adjust the chain of the flapper so that the flapper comes up enough to let the water out, but doesn't get pulled too far. Take the new flexible supply and tighten the bottom nut onto the valve securely, do the same at the top, check for leaks, adjust the cup on the toilet valve to the amount of water sufficient to clean the fixture. If it's leaking outside the tank, it is not worth replacing the tank, for the same price you can get a new toilet. If it's leaking between the tank and bowl, you need a new tank to bowl gasket set, you would have to determine the brand and model of your toilet , get the part. There are either 2 or 3 bolts holding the tank to the bowl, plus the water line. Take off the top nut from the supply tube, take off the nuts underneath the tank, lift the tank off onto a large cushioned work area, compare the new parts, make sure they are the right ones, a large gasket and 2 or 3 bolt and nut sets with smaller gaskets. Place the large gasket completely over the large nut under the tank, place the small gaskets onto their nuts, insert them in the tank, place the tank back on the bowl, gently and squarely, tighten the nuts a number of turns each until the tank almost contacts the bowl, reattach the waterline and test. There is no filler...Try this, You'll need a very large screwdriver, and someone to tighten the nuts underneath while you hold the bolts with the screwdriver, it could be just one is loose, its usually the back one on a 3 bolt.

Answer 4

It is not a difficult job to do, however, you do need some tools. I figure that the problem might be with the rubber washer that holds the tank. A quick fix would be to shut off the water valve and empty the tank, dry the interior and below the tank where the leak is with a cloth. Loosen the bolt that holds the tank, and wrap around a piece of string. Re-tight the bolt and check it out if it still leaks. Good luck.

Answer 5

If you mean that it's leaking where the tube coming up that contains the ball & float assembly meets the tank and on the underneathe side of tank it is connected to your cold water supply line, then you need to turn off your water shutoff valve that comes out of the wall or floor and leads up to the bottom of tank, completely drain tank by flushing, sponge out the remaining water in tank, disconnect nut under tank where waterline meets tank, remove old upright tube & float ball as one unit, pickup replacement at Ace or wherever, ask for Newer type setup if you have the old float ball setup. Newer type is vertical tube with float and shutoff valve inside tube and arm to hook chain to that connects to flushing handle. Install complete setup through hole in bottom of tank, using large rubber washer provided to seal from the inside and use large plastic nut with fiber washer to tighten down from the ouside ( Only hand tighten plastic or nylon parts, never use a wrench), Re-connect water supply line, turn on shutoff valve and check for leaks. If leaks are present then hand tighten a little more to stop leak. Plasic parts generally don't need teflon tape or teflon paste to seal connections but it won't hurt. If by chance your home is real old then then you might not have a shutoff under your toilet coming out of the wall. If thats the case you will then have to shutoff entire home at water main. Good Luck. Joe

Answer 6

The whole interior works come in a kit at the hardware store, and they come with complete instructions. It's not hard at all.

If it's just leaking from the tank into the bowl, you may just need a new flapper valve - that rubber deal that flops up when you flush. Again, easy to replace.

If it's the valve leaking water into the tank, the float may just need to be adjusted. Another easy fix.

Start at the hardware store. they'll guide you in the right direction.

Answer 7

The (2) rubber sealing washers at the base of the tank that hold the bowl and tank together are probably old and cracked.

You may be able to simply tighten the nuts a little. (that sounds bad)

Answer 8

Yes but get the same brand. But you need to call your landlord.

Answer 9

Get your dad to fix it for you.