Installing Drywall question?

Question

We are finishing our basement..........Right now it has the old 70s style paneling which I started ripping out. I never installed drywall before so I guess I am at the idiot stage. What is the typical way of cutting drywall? What tools am I going to need to complete this job?

Thanks a ton

Answer 1

After installing thousands of sq. ft. of drywall, but only surfing all your answers, I'm sure there are valid suggestions.

Assuming you'll install in 4 x 8 sheets,,, allow that someone might help you,,, at least to carry, and hold sheets. The choice is yours as to thickness,,, Common is 1/2 inch residential.

If by chance the ceiling to floor height is 8 ft. half your battle has been won. Measure first, and at least twice,,, not only in cutting the drywall, but in planning the least amount of waste.

You don't mention studs or furring strips, so I'll assume either have been installed 16 or 24 inch on centers. If they happen to be 2 x 4 studs, I advise tyvek, and/or blue foam insulating panels installed first.

Define the quantity needed by the room measurments, before you make the first cut on any piece of drywall. IE: If a wall length is 8 ft high by 10 ft you'll have to cut a 4 x 8 in half,,, lenghtwise allowing a 2 x 8 to be used elsewhere. I'm not trying to dumb this down,,, please don't take offense.

Into each corner, determine that 48 inches or any cut pieces, should center on a stud or "strip" I allow no less than 1 inch off the floor surface in case of a flood,,,IE: a plumbing break. That may mean cutting an inch off the length of a sheet? You can use a piece of 2 x 4 to accomplish this.

You need only a couple of drywall screws to keep it in place, allowing you to "finish" without a helper.

CUTTING: As others have likely suggested a utility knife is acceptable. DO NOT bother with the snap off blade type,,, BUT DO buy a pack of 100 extra blades.

With help you can have the drywall section upright. If no help is available leave it laying flat on the floor. Snap a chalk line at the proper measurements for any cutting, and if you have a steady hand and eye, cut into the line, once, twice, perhaps even 3 times, as evenly as you can in applying pressure. Certainly if you must, you can use an 8 ft straight edge.

In either case of cutting,,, Cut on the "back side" of the sheet. Once you've "scored" the sheet, you can flex it back, folding it to a 90 degree angle, more or less, then cut at the fold or if you've scored deep enough just "snap the length back beyond the flat, to free it. Most often, if your knife is sharp, and the scoring deep enough, the edge will be relatively clean. Then install.

To avoid screwing the drywall screws through the piece you can purchase a bit stop tool. The screw only needs to be installed just below the paper surface. I use 1 5/8 most often, but certainly it's your choice,,,especially when furring strips are the support.

After the fact, and placing screws appropriately, without over doing it (Drywall hangs by "Shear" weight), tape, mud, sand, and finish.

Rev. Steven

Answer 2

In addition to what's already been said, get some cheap lipstick. Get the cheap stuff -- you want it to smear easily. Apply a thin coat of the lipstick around the outlet and switch boxes, press the drywall into place, now you have bright red lines showing you exactly where to make the cuts.

It is a very bad idea for a DIY-er to make these cuts with the drywall on the wall; it's too easy to cut a wire. Mark the drywall, lay it on the ground or sawhorses, then make the cuts.

You will also need to either reposition the switch and outlet boxes or install box extenders. That ugly panelling you're taking out is 1/4" thick, the drywall is 5/8". You do know to turn the breaker off first, right?

Answer 3

A hand drywall saw is messy and creates dust and a torn job. Use a scoring knife (the type like the boxcutters that the stock people in supermarkets use to cut the boxes and the products within), measure on the front of the drywall, score with the knife, cut again from the back, snap it by pulling from the back, and it should separate nicely with a clean cut, with minimal "damage" on the front. Practice on pieces of scrap before you attempt the good cuts. This is if you are cutting across the width, standing it up. Length cuts can be done on the floor or over 2 sawhorses to be less awkward. Invest in or borrow a good cordless drill. And use drywall screws, not nails. Nails can pop, while screws can be counter-sunk, making them more permanent. And use the mesh instead of the paper for joints; it's easier and less stressful, though the pros use the paper. I re-drywalled my entire house using these methods, and it was most efficient with the cleanest cuts. The saw is best applied for cutting out holes for switches, cable and phone. The worst part is the sanding. Seal off unaffected areas and always wear a mask made for handling particulate matter. Drywall dust stays airborne for at least 10 hours, so your first cleanup won't be your last. Leave windows open, cover HVAC vents and an exhaust fan in the window are musts. This is a crappy job, but with the correct method and ways of handling the "fallout", it can be dealt with, with the least problems. Ask friends about it; almost everyone should know someone who has done this. And you will probably need to replace your insulation if it is from the 70s, and over that is placed at least a 6-mil vapour barrier, sealed with tuck tape and vapour barrier sealant (black caulking.) Always handle insulation with gloves. And wear those disposable coveralls, then throw it all away. You may have to re-strap. Later, get a good primer prior to painting. Offer to provide beer and pizza to helpers. Some guys will do just about anything for beer and pizza. They may even help you clean up. You'll learn as you go. If this sounds too daunting, hire the pros. Good luck. Oh yeah, you may need the moisture-resistant green drywall if you have a high-moisture area. Contact a good dealer about that to find out, not some kid that mops floors at Home Depot. If you need it, you need it, but if you don't, you'll save money by using the standard stuff.

Answer 4

You've received some factual information and some false information. Drywall was engineered by the inventors to be hung horizontally regardless of its length. Common lengths are 8' - 9' - 10' - 12'. When hung vertically you run the risk of having to cut off the 'flat' (factory papered edge) because the framing is not on 4' center which then turns that joint into a half-butt which is more difficult to hide the joint. Even if the framing is perfect, vertical 8' joints require the taper to get on his hands and knees for the bottom and on a ladder to tape the top. The only advantage to vertical on proper framing is no butt joints. Been hanging and taping drywall as contractor for last fifty years.

Answer 5

tools you will need to hang drywall: a utility knife, a t-square, a chalk line ( don't use red), a 3/8 drill with a drywall bit to set the screws, drywall screws ( usually about 11/4 long). to finish drywall you need: a 4" knife a 6" knife, and a 10 or 12" knife, drywall compound, drywall tape. To cut drywall, measure the drywall to cut, use your t-square to cut a straight line with your U. knife. cut one side then snap it real quick on the line you just cut and it should break on the line you just cut. then screw it to the wall that you measured. To finish drywall: apply some compound over the seem, push your drywall tape in the seem, with the 4" knife go over the compound. let dry. sand smoothly, with the 6" knife spread a thin layer of compound over the same seem, let dry, sand smoothly. with the 10 or 12" knife do it again, sand and feather the edges. go over your screw holes 3 times or they will show later, after everything is dry and sanded smoothly. you can paint over it, or lay paneling.

Answer 6

Its easy son, tools: ( utility knife, drill,measuring tape, pencil,mud pan, 4" Spackle knife, t square, chalk line, sand paper) Material: (well you know dry wall, screws,dry wall tape, and spackle). Since its your first time hanging drywall you might want to get a stud finder too make sure you put the screws in the right place. The rest is like putting a puzzle together with a Little mathematical skills and common since. Order to do: ( Hang drywall with screws, spackle screw and lightly seem areas, before seem area drys put dry wall tape over it and as you do this spackle tape to dry wall, let dry and sand down spackle until smooth and flat).

Answer 7

Usually a utility knife will do the job.
A straight edge & chalk line are a good idea.
You score the front using the knife, then break from behind on the score.
You can hang it using liquid nails or screws.
Once in place, you need to apply tape and mud (joint compound) on the seams. Then you sand it down flat, clean & paint.
Good Luck! LOL

Answer 8

cheapest way out, is utility knife..and straight edge...and key hole saw..to cut outlets ..get a drill with phillips tip and lots of drywall screws..some tape to do the seams over and joint compound and a putty knife.. thats it..

Answer 9

You'll love this........you actually just score it and snap it off. You use the keyhole saw when making cutouts, but for general size cutting, score and snap. I'd give you a web link, but my computer is being finicky today.

Answer 10

you will end a razor knife to cut sheetrock or a sheetrock saw...best way and quickiest is to screw it on...you will also need a several different sizes of putty knives,sometype of sanding tool...not a electric sander it takes to much dried mud off...its very easy to do...have faith in yourself...don't tackle the ceiling first do the walls first...easy way to learn...