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This is when the engine is running with no load and idling. Is this normal or should I govern it down to put out exactly 120 and 240? When I start connecting loads to it , it does drop on down to between 110 &120 depending on the load.It's practically brand new and I'm sure was set just right when I bought it, but like a dummy, I felt like it was idling too high and then started messing with the idle/governor until I thought it sounded about right. Only problem is, I didn't think to check the voltage output before I did that, so I don't know what it was putting out when it was (presumably) set correctly from the factory. This information is nowhere to be found in my owners manual. Does anybody know ? OK, the other day I hooked it up to my house for a test run.I turned on everything in my house except the central air cond. and clothes dryer. 4 computers &moniters,4 tv's,every light,4 cieling fans,fridge,furnace fan-and the voltage(in my house receptacles )was about 105. Is this normal?

2006-11-22 11:41:55 · 3 answers · asked by teri 2 in Cars & Transportation Maintenance & Repairs

By the way, it's a 15 horse briggs. 7500 running watts-13,500 surge watts. Has idle control switch and automatic voltage regulator.The above readings I quoted was with idle switch in OFF posistion. You see, before I messed with it, It was idling really high and when I turned on the idle control switch it would idle way on down lower. Now, (after messing with it) It doesn't make any difference in idle speed with the idle control switch on OR off. I know the simple answer is to take it to a dealer and let them adjust it, but I'm not a very rich person. So, if someone with knowledge about this can help me out, I will appreciate it very much and save myself a LOT of cash. Thanks! :)

2006-11-22 11:52:04 · update #1

3 answers

First of all set the idle control back where it should be. This can not be done simply by listening to the engine. You will need a method of measuring engine speed or frequency of the AC output. The engine should be at about 3700RPM to produce about 62Hz AC output. When placed under load the engine speed will slow slightly and be closer to 60Hz.
Once the engine speed is correct, check the output voltage. It should be about 125V per line under no load. There should be a small hole for screwdriver adjustment on the side of the electrical panel.
For an inexpensive method of setup, get a Kill A Watt meter. It will show you operating frequency and output voltage. I purchased one on eBay...
http://www.p3international.com/products/special/P4400/P4400-CE.html
http://www.the-gadgeteer.com/killawatt-review.html

Check my generator page for other portable generator operating and safety ideas.
http://members.rennlist.org/warren/generator.html

2006-11-23 09:17:19 · answer #1 · answered by Warren914 6 · 0 0

First, you should have never messed with the idle control. Now on to the voltage. A generator is designed to deliver a higher voltage at no load so 130 and 260 volts at no load is normal. With all the load you placed on it, it's also normal for the voltage to drop to 105. If you run the generator for an extended period with this large load, you will definitely damage the generator. When you set the idle down, you also probably changed the cycles of the voltage and current. The engine is designed to run at 3600 rpm which will produce 60 cycle electricity, the same as your house current. In Europe, the engine speed is 3000 rpm to generate 50 cycle electricity.
Add all the rated watts of all the devices you connect to the generator. The generator will run quite happily of 80 to 90 percent of the rated wattage.
The surge load rating is necessary to start any device with an electric motor as it draws considerable more current or wattage during starting but rapidly drops back to the rating on the manufacturers tag seconds later.

2006-11-22 13:39:22 · answer #2 · answered by notadeadbeat 5 · 0 0

First, DON'T EVER trust anyone at a Home Depot store to know enough to come in out of the rain, let alone to tell you what wire to use for what application. The #12 romex wire that is in your garage will not safely carry more than 2O amps. If you try to use it the insulation on the outside of the wires will melt and when they short out they could cause a fire. You will need at least #10-2/G, to run your 220 volt system and it needs to be a dedicated circuit for just the heater. You will also need a 30 amp double breaker in the main panel to handle the circuit safely. From the 2x20 description you give of the currently installed breaker I'd bet it's simply a double 20 amp breaker, which doesn't get added together. It only carries 20 amps on each leg of the 220. The 30 amp recept should be fine.

2016-05-22 19:34:58 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

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