My ball python isnt doing too good..............?

Question

His scales are not alligned, he wont eat, and he never comes out of his hideout. Whats wrong with him????

And also, whenever he sheds, it never comes off in little patches, so we have to take his dead skin off. There's still a few scales with dead skin on him.

*it DOES come off in little patches

Answer 1

I've had the exact same problem that you have before. It's very common with ball pythons. I've had two ball pythons ever since I've been toying with snakes, and I can tell you from personal experience that it'll go away eventually. Just make sure that it doesn't have any mites or mouth rot. Also, check the feces to make sure it's coming out properly. Over the winter this problem is very common. What I usually do is leave a frozen mouse over the top of the cage while it's thawing. If the snake wants to eat, it'll come out and sniff around. Leave it thawing for a while to tempt the snake. That always did the trick for me.

As far as the shedding problem goes, I had the same problem as well... but I noticed that it went away when my snake ate regularly. I was too lazy to do this, but you might wanna soak your snake in warm water every day before it's about to shed. It'll help loosen the skin and ease the shedding process.

Answer 2

The shedding problem is caused by low humidity. What people fail to realise is ball pythons are NOT desert snakes. They need 60 percent humidity. It should not be housed on sand, walnut shells, or any other desert type substrate. I house my ball on coconut fiber.

Make sure the snake has 3 hideboxes, has the correct thermal gradient and the cage is in a quiet part of the house. Also NO HANDLING. Handling equals stress.

First fix husbandry problems, then try a prekilled mouse with its head split open exposing brains, leave it in overnight with the snake.

I have no idea what you mean by scales arnt alligned. Get a picture, upload it to a photo hosting site like http://photobucket.com or email it to me [e-mail]

Ball pythons regularly go off feed, aslong as the snake isnt losing weight it is nothing to worry about. If it is however an experienced reptile vet visit is in order.

Answer 3

Unfortunately this is a common problem with Ball Pythons. Take your snake to the vet and make sure that his water is clean, his habitat temperatures are in the proper night and day ranges and that he does not have a parasite (fecal) infection or an upper respiratory infection.

Are you feeding your snake live or thawed mice? Sometimes this species becomes "shy" around live mice. Try thawed (warm) mice. If you are not familiar with frozen mice, use a cup of very warm water to thaw the mouse. Change it out until the mouse is thawed. Dry the mouse on paper towels. If your snakes does not eat this mouse there is one more way to make it more appealing. Get a live mouse, or at least the shavings from a mouse cage. Let the thawed mouse pick up the scent.

There are appetite stimulants (specially made for reptiles) that can work. You can put them in their water or give it to them orally (in a medical syringe). Many pet stores carry this product.

Only one of my ball pythons never ate again. It can be frustrating, but sometimes there is nothing that will make these guys eat. Warning, sometimes force feeding stresses the snake out. This often compounds the problem. Good luck.

Answer 4

I would suspect that this snake has mites. Mites are tiny parasites and they burrow under the snake's scales to drink its blood, this is why the scales can have a strange appearance. They are distressing to the snake also, which is why they can stop eating.

Here's how to check for mites: look in your snake's water bowl. You will see the mites drowned at the bottom. They look like tiny black grains of pepper. You can also examine your snake. Look especially hard in the "crevices" of his body, ie. in the groove under his chin and in his heat pits.

It may not be mites, but that's what I'd look for. Good luck.

Answer 5

Sounds like it might be a nutritional deficiency, that scale problem. What temperature is his cage kept at? The basking spot should be 90-95, the cold side of the cage should be at 80-85.

It's not unusual for them to go off their feed in the winter for a bit.

If you don't get him to the vet, with that scale problem he will probably die.

Answer 6

I am not a herp expert but ex used to be. We had a ball who was like that make sure he can open his mouth sometimes they get mouth rot and that can make them very ill. Also make sure he is warm enough all around his cage or aquarium not just in his hideout. Hope he gets better. God bless.

Answer 7

you should take him to a vet. check out my website hoverspot.com/twan. tell me what you think email me at [e-mail]

Answer 8

its called depreesion