cover the floor boards with 3mm ply wood...........buy a compound called self leveler its like a plaster mix but it contains latex pour this on your plywood....as it says it levels the floor plus having latex it has some give in it pefect for laying tiles.........take your time with the tile laying only doing an area you can comfortably do before your tile adhesive starts to go off with granite tiles leave a 1 to 2 mm gap so you can grout them with whatever colour you want
2006-11-23 07:37:05
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answer #1
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answered by jeff c 3
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First of all I don't hate installing tile,,,smiles. After installing thousands of sq. ft. of it, I've learned a couple things. The customer is always right,,,even when they aren't,,,AND I use concrete backer board exclusively now, unless I'm laying tile on concrete. I no longer depend just on plywood substrate or flake board.
I seal the seams, insure that the substrate is smooth and level, then almost always go with 1/4 inch grout lines, using rubber spacers,,, AFTER I've insured that the area is square, snapping tow lines perpendicular to each other at a meeting point allowing me the least amount of cuts at the edges, and begin.
Thinset mortar is available in grades. I use a 1/4 inch tooth trowel/ spreader and once set/cured, I use sanded grout. Certainly you can go as narrow as 1/8th. It's a matter of personal preference and the "exact" measurements you come up with. Example,,, for every tile 12 x 12 you need to add 1/8th or 1/4 inch to the total measurement of the install. For every 4 tiles you'll need an inch for grout plus at least 1/4 to 1/2 at the perimeters. In deciding the grout line you may in fact have more or less perimeter cuts?
Rev. Steven
2006-11-21 14:05:51
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answer #2
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answered by DIY Doc 7
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Rescrew your wood floor to the floor joists. Purchase and install "cement board". It is a half inch thick drywall like board that can be bought at any Home Depot, Rona or other builders store. Then screw your cement board to the subfloor making sure you hit the joists. Stagger your screws every 6-8 inches.
Then, using thin-set, apply it to the board with a 1/4 inch notched trowel. Place tiles (after already dryfitting them) onto the mortar. Allow a 1/4 gap for spacing using rubber spacers. Make sure you clean all joints before mortar sets, because this will show thru when it comes time to grout.
Allow time for mortar to set, preferrably 12 hours, then proceed with grouting.
Mix grout, then let it sit 10 minutes to allow for slake. Then apply in diagonal motions over your tiles, with a rubber float, making sure to fill all voids. After that is complete, wash off excess with a damp sponge. Three washings should remove all of the excess.
Then enjoy your floor.
:)
2006-11-22 06:22:54
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answer #3
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answered by imroughingit 1
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Do not put your beautiful granite on wood. 1st make sure there is no deflection in the existing floor,use 1/4 inch hardibacker or 1/4 inch durock (follow directions provided on sheets,or go to the websites)Granite needs to cut by wet saw only,and depending on color,you may need white thinset,usually granite has a 1/8" space because you shouldn't grout with a sanded grout,normally you use a unsanded grout as it will not scratch the finish.
Good luck...
2006-11-21 12:21:32
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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Does the wooden floor have a solid substrate? Will it be a heavy traffic area? Tile needs a solid surface to prevent cracking the grout lines. Also, spacing depends on tile size. Small tile, like 4" square, use a thin (like 1/8") grout line. Larger tile, 1/4" grout line.
2006-11-21 09:27:52
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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My gf and I did the same thing in our old flat we did up before selling, we didn't want to nail down the floor boards in case we hit a pipe or wire so we poured a couple of inches of rapid setting cement over the whole floor. This worked and we were able to glue floor tiles over the top when the cement was dry, we did have to get our friend to saw the door down and we later realised the loo and wash hand basin seemed a lot lower than normal but the finished job looked really good and the new occupants who bought from us were okay because they were going to put in a new bathroom anyway.
2016-03-12 21:09:20
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answer #6
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answered by Anonymous
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You need to lay a solid surface down first, I suggest HARDI-BACKERBOARD...mount it with screws, get them where you buy the BACKER-BOARD {Home Depot, Lowes, ect}.This is to stop any flexing and for the motar to adhere to.There are people who say 1/4" or 1/8" spacers should be used....but I have found out the smaller the grout seams the better looking job.Just a little more effort such as using screws will pay of in a job that will last for a long time.
2006-11-21 10:59:01
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answer #7
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answered by Anonymous
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if this is a bathroom, are there pipes or wires under the floorboards which you may in the future need to get to? It might be difficult if there are tiles on top.
I appreciate that you might not be the decision-maker but the best option may be to clean and seal the wooden floor.
2006-11-21 22:52:45
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answer #8
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answered by XT rider 7
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you need to lay a 6mm ply wood over the floor boards you can glue and screw this use a 20mm screw to avoid hitting pipes or cables fix the sheets every 200mm max distants apart, then use a tile adhesive for laying on timber, space between tiles 3mm to 5mm hope this helps.
2006-11-21 10:37:05
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answer #9
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answered by Anonymous
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first lay a layer of hardboard shiny face down screw or nail at 6" centre's.use 4mm spacers. use a wood floor adhesive rapid set its called. do your cuts first you dont get long to play with it once mixed. you can grout in two hours.
2006-11-21 12:02:01
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answer #10
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answered by Anonymous
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