How do I repair a hole in the wall?

Question

I caught my 4 year old hanging on the towel bar in the bathroom and unfortunately she ripped it out of the wall. I want to repair it but I'm not sure how and would like any info you can give me please. Also, if possible, I would like to make it strong enough to support the towel bar again so I don't have to move it. Thanks.

Answer 1

The tools you need:

Stirring implement
Plaster
Spatulas
Sandpaper
Paint
Sponge

Select a spatula that's slightly wider than the hole you are filling. Also select one or two smaller spatulas you can use for touch-up work.

Preparing the plaster: Open the plaster. If the plaster is in a can, use a screwdriver or an old table knife to pry off the lid. Use a wooden stick or spoon to stir the plaster. Make sure it's smooth, with no lumps or liquid.

Applying the plaster to the hole: Use the spatula to spread plaster over the hole. Spread the plaster in only one direction, making sure to spread it beyond the boundaries of the hole. After the plaster is dry, you can use a smaller spatula to touch up any areas that are not completely filled in. After the plaster is completely dry, use the sandpaper to lightly sand the surface. Make sure the plaster is nice and smooth right out to the edge of the hole and beyond.

Painting the area: Using a sponge that matches the surface of the wall, practice dabbing paint on the cardboard. Keep practicing until you can duplicate the texture of the wall. Use the same sponge (or sponges) to dab paint over the patch. Make sure you match the texture of the surrounding wall. You can go back over the paint either while it's wet or after it dries. Try to get the texture just right.

Answer 2

You got some real crap answers there. I will assume you have drywall.
1. Cut out, using a utility knife, or keyhole saw, an area 3 inches above and below the uppermost and lowest hole parts, going outward until you reach a stud (2x4 in the wall). There should (maybe?) be one in the center.
2. Carefully, cut the left and right edges vertically over the outer studs about 3/4". This should be half the width of the wood exposed. The center stud should be completely visible. Remove any screws or nails that are visible.
3. Acquire 2 pieces of 2x2 about as long as the opening is high, and a 1/2" - 5 ply to 3/4" piece of plywood (more plies = stronger) slightly smaller (like 1/8th inch) than the opening. NOTE: you can (I would) use a piece of plywood that I had to 'work into place' that was 2" beyond the top and bottom of the opening. (Overlap or in this case, 'underlap'.)
4. Using your plywood thickness as a guide, fasten the 2x2 to the inside edges of the outer studs so your plywood will fit BETWEEN the 2x2 and the BACK SIDE of the old drywall. I would use screws, and don't be tight with them.
5. Fasten the plywood to the 2x2's (the 2x2's are what we call 'scabbed on') and the center stud. Use screws, and be sure they are countersunk so you do not have them in your way. Don't be too tight with the screws, but don't use too many either.
6. Cut a piece of drywall to match the opening size, or slightly smaller. Don't forget the 3/4" overlap on the studs. (If the plywood is 'underlapped', also screw down the old drywall to the plywood.) Secure it in place. I would use screws. Do not get too close to the edges. Put them every 8 inches along the edges, and a few in the middle. This takes practice: the screws must countersink slightly, but not so far they break through the outer covering (paper) of the drywall.
7. Use a very sharp knife, and score a very light line around the outer edge of the opening. Optimally, you want to peel off all the old paint and 1 or 2 layers of the paper from the old drywall. This is a variation of a 'butterfly patch'.
8. Use some of the nylon mesh drywall 'tape' and straddle the seams, half on the old part and half on the new. Cut the top and bottom so they go edge to edge, and the vertical ones just slightly over lap them, about 1/4" is good.
9. Use drywall joint compund - "mud" - and a wide, steel taping knife, available and Home Depot et al, and work some in all the seams, filling the cracks. Drag the taping knife over the mud so it is smooth and does NOT rise above the existing wall, but covers the mesh. The taping knife width will vary with the size of your opening, but NEVER wider than the opening at the smallest point. Also, cover and smooth over the countersunk screws.
10. Allow to dry, perhaps 2 days for the first coat, one for the rest.
11. Use either a coarse grit sandpaper or preferably drywall sanding screen, wrap it around something rigid with a 4+/-" (a piece of old 2x4 works well) surface and sand it down smooth. Do not sand hard or dig into the sheets or mesh. Wipe down with a slightly damp towel to remove dust.
12. Repeat step 9 through 11 until you have a nice smooth surface. Decrease the coarseness of the screen or sandpaper each time.
13. Apply texture to match if required, then paint.
14. Now, when you re-attach the towel bar, even YOU should be able to do pull-ups on it.

I am experienced at this, and the first step would take me 2+ hours, then just drying time. Also, BE VERY CAREFUL DURING THE INITIAL CUT for wiring or possibly plumbing behind the wall.

If you have never done this, the first iteration could take you all day. Patience.

Answer 3

If it wasn't anchored into the studs, you will probably need to move it just a little bit and make sure that you are using long wood screws. If they are just small holes, fill them in with spackle. If it is a hole about the size of a doorknob, you can take a piece of screen with wire through the center so you can hold it inside the hole and pull towards you and spackle it that way. Let it dry and clip the wire flush to the wall. If it is a bigger hole, cut out the wall board around the hole to the studs, preferable square. Get another piece of wallboard, make sure it is the same thickness as your existing wallboard and take the square with the hole in it and lay it on the new piece and trace around it with a pencil. This way, it should fit perfectly into the hole in the wall. Use nails to attach it to the studs and spackle the edges or any other imperfections. They key is to make sure you attach the ends of the towelbar into the studs with nice, long screws that have a wide thread. Good luck and tell baby that you don't mind her hanging around, just not there. LOL! I hope this helps.

Answer 4

It appears to be a small hole. I would go to Home Depot or Lowe's or another home supply store. I would by a piece of 1" x 6" lumber about 4 feet long and get a few 3" sheetrock screws.

Just cut the board to length and be sure it covers the hole up. Screw it into place at the walls studs. 3 screws at each stud will do very nice. Then paint it to match the wall. After the paint is dried put the towel rack back up and secure it to the board.

This should survive your son until he outgrows hanging from bars (about age 16.)

Answer 5

enlarge the hole enough to see if there is a stud or wall support behind the wall board. If so get some good screws and attache the towel bar directly to a stud or wall support. If not make and place a 2X4 between the wall studs and glue and screw it into place. This should be strong enough to support the towel bar with a child hanging on. then repair the wall board by spakling and paste and a piece of sheet rock cut to fit the opening.

Answer 6

holes 1 - 5 inches do this
clean away loose drywall and paper, make sure inner surface is rough

cut screen 2 inches longer then the hole all the way around

cut some string, about 12 inches, and tie it to a flat piece of wood/stick..strong twigs or a Popsicle stick will do also

thread the string through the center of the screen..

bend the screen and insert the stick through the hole, pull on the string so the stick holds the screen flat against the back of the hole

hold string taunt, fill the hole working from the outer edges in, making sure the compound adheres to the mesh

tape the string tightly against the wall using masking tape

when dry, cut the string flush with the wall, then sand

if using a joint compound, it will shrink, apply another layer, you may need a 3rd layer to bring it up to the surface
make sure you allow to dry, give it at least 8 hours, to be safe

Answer 7

oh boy these people dont really know what theyre talking about, firstly spackle wet in a can is only for thin small holes, secondly hot dry mud or drywall compound is what you would use over a criss cross pattern of fiberglass tape like somebody mentioned, but thirdly you would apply it all at once and then sand it off dry with a sanding screen, not sand paper, the screen doesnt get clogged, fourthly you might have to texture it, if it has a texture, try to get the texture to match, fifthly its a bathroom so that could be a semi gloss finish, so that would be a prime coat and then a couple of finish coats over the small area. the other explanations are just amaturish, this is the way to do it if its a small hole and the drywall if its drywall hasnt been weakened, it may not even be drywall it could be lath and plaster, in which case again you would want to use a dry mix compound, setting times are 20 mins 40 mins and 60 mins for example, i would suggest 40 mins that the setting time of the dry compound mix...

Answer 8

Get 'Sheetrock' lightweight all purpose compound, fiberglass mesh drywall tape and slightly flexible taping knifes a little larger than your hole at your local hardware center.

Put tape across hole so that it mimics the depth (tape loose in hole). You may overlap the tape, I suggest a cross pattern. Make 3 thin applications to bring surface up to level allowing complete drying between each application per instructions. Make all subsequent applications very thin and let dry between each, use extra fine sandpaper attached to a drywall sanding or auto body rubber sanding block. Sand smooth, but leave compound albeit thin overlapping actual hole and tape. A floor fan will speed up drying time.

Repainting:

Prime patch and some surrounding area with two coats of 'Sheetrock' first coat using a roller as per instructions. This will blend the surface to hide the patch. Make sure you do not roll back and forth to much first application, as the patch will 'oat meal' on you. Then repaint bathroom, I'd use a satin paint with white hues, i.e. if blue, almost white by two or three shades. Stay away from flat and gloss, maybe semi gloss, but satin is the best of both worlds.

For strength, you may want to reposition towel bar to avoid patch: up, down, left, right or another wall.

I've done amazing invisible repairs this way !

Answer 9

It depends on the size of the holes. If not too big, patch them with wall putty, sand when dry but don't hang the bar in exact space as it probably will make holes bigger. Bring towel rack up above the patched area. If the holes are huge then you'll need to cut out the drywall and tape then sand it/paint it. We had the same experience here but with a Daycare child as the culprit

Answer 10

Fill empty space with a spackle, smoothen and dry. Then get a scrap piece of wallboard a few inches bigger than the hole. Draw a circle or rectangle just larger than the hole and, cut it out. It doesn't have to be a perfect circle or rectangle. Lay this patch piece over the hole, using a glue with strong bonding. Cut a backer piece wood strips four inches larger than the opening of the hole that you can screw into. Fix the above backer piece with appropriate screw on both ends. Apply screw attaching the patch and the backer piece as well. Apply two coats of spackle, sanding after each. When the patch is dry, apply a primer then paint it the same color as the wall. You can fix your towel bar back after wards, but for better results you need to reinstall it in a place a bit higher or lower its original place. If you are using a screw, be sure to make initial holes with a drill. Use screw length which can keep your bars reasonably strong. It is a modified combination of suggested tips with a guaranteed strength.☺

Answer 11

I had a child kick a whole in the wall and what we did was go to Home Depot or Lowes and they have this kit that has a mesh netting. You tape that to the wall with the stuff that comes in the kit. Then you Spackle. Let it dry, then LIGHTLY sandpaper it. You have to get a fine grade of sandpaper though. then repeat the process. It took us like 2 or 3 times. Then paint the wall. It won't look completely new, but it will look ok. If you then adjust the next towel rack over it or something it won't be as noticeable.