Is the blade in backwards?
Could be the wrong type of blade, but should still cut.
If the blade is new and is in the right way, you have a problem with pinching.
Ate you using a fence to make a rip cut? Could be the fence is not parallel to the blade.
The cut cane sometimes be spread with wedges as you go, but you should have a helper and be sure the blade guard is in place and adjusted.
2006-11-18 03:01:56
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answer #1
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answered by Gaspode 7
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Is it a Skill-saw type circular saw? Or, a tablesaw type circular saw? If it is a skill-saw there are a few reasons it could be doing this:
1. Blade is mounted backward
2. Blade is dull
3. Blade has too many teeth (the more teeth, the slower the cut. The slower the cut, the more chance of burning)
4. The blade is skewed to the direction of cut
5. The blade is wobbling (high amount of run-out)
6. The material is improperly supported (as the cut progresses the two pieces pinch the blade as they try to fall)
For Tablesaw:
1. The blade is mounted backward
2. The blade is dull
3. The rip-fence is closer to the blade at the back than it is at the front
The easiest thing to check is making sure that blade blade is mounted correctly, the top of the blade always moves toward you and the bottom of the blade always move away from you. The rest are harder to check. The fence needs to be measured with a high accuracy gauge. The proper number of teeth for any job is highly subjective and dependent on you goal (smooth cut or fast cut). To properly support a piece, the top surface of the cut should spread or stay perfectly still as you cut. To achieve this you must have support closer to the intended cut line than you have near the existing edges.
The only reason that a standard kerf (1/8" thick) Blade would be too thick is if you have a hideously under-powered saw, we're talking about a saw that would have trouble cutting balsa. You can try a thin kerf blade, but I have never been too impressed with them, they throw off the width of my cut, making it hard for me to guide the saw since I am used to the standard 1/8".
2006-11-18 05:34:28
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answer #2
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answered by nathanael_beal 4
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COULD BE:
1) If you are pushing the saw too fast, it won't cut as well. Take it slowly and give the blade time to eat through the wood.
2) Do you have the right blade for the job?
3) Is the wood damp?
4) Is the wood supported in a way so that as you are cutting it, the pieces fall away instead of remaining to squeeze the blade?
A good brand of blade is Pirhana if you want to try one.
2006-11-18 03:02:19
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answer #3
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answered by Rainfog 5
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Sounds like your blade may be in backwards!
If it isn't then replace with a fine tooth "plywood blade" and throw the old one away, as any blade THAT dull is a hazard.
The thickness makes a difference only in the width of the slot it cuts.
The number of teeth determine the "smoothness" of the cut.
2006-11-18 06:42:31
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answer #4
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answered by f100_supersabre 7
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Blade thickness is totally irrelevant. It sounds to me that your blade is in backwards. Even a dull blade will cut more than a foot per minute.
2006-11-20 00:11:58
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answer #5
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answered by Average Joe 3
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Either your saw blade is blunt, or you try to move the work piece in a slight angle to the saw blade (fence and blade not 100% parallel).
Also, for 3/4" plywood, use a blade with 80-100 teeth, not the 40-60 teeth type.
2006-11-18 03:00:49
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answer #6
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answered by Marianna 6
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Dull blade, Motor unable to handle the stock, too impatient to make the cut, Guide isn't square...
Pretty simple without a lengthy diatribe.
Steven Wolf
2006-11-18 06:27:26
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answer #7
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answered by DIY Doc 7
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This can be two things your saw blade is dull (not sharp) or you are pushing the circular saw to slow in which burns the wood
2006-11-18 03:11:52
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answer #8
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answered by mark m 1
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You need a sharper blade. Your blade is dull. Get a plywood blade when you replace the one you have.
2006-11-18 03:50:47
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answer #9
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answered by rod s 1
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You are cutting too slow, move it faster. What is happening is that the blade is causing a friction, thus scortching it
2006-11-18 09:50:10
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answer #10
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answered by Polyhistor 7
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