They are about 20 years old and haven't really been taken care of in those 20 years. I know that they are expensive (and even more valuable when they are 20 years old and as big and healthy as they are) but they are located in 2 seperate flower beds in front of my house and they are so big that they are resting against the house and blocking the windows. I don't want to lose the trees by pruning them incorrectly and killing them. They are beautiful trees they're just too big. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!!
2006-11-16 02:20:48 · 4 answers · asked by Jeff M 1 in Home & Garden ➔ Garden & Landscape
Do not do the pruning all at once, or the tree will be set back in its development; that is, if you prune too much at once, you are interfering with its ability to manufacture food for itself, leaving it vulnerable to disease and insect damage. Do not prune more than one-third in a growing season. Maples bleed (hence the sap needed for maple syrup in late winter), so do not prune when this occurs in abundance, i.e. Feb./March. Doing so now would not cause bleeding, if you are located in a colder climate. First remove all dead, diseased or dying wood, and crossing-over branches. Clean out the inner part of the tree to allow for air flow, which diminishes chance of fungus disease--a preventive maintenance pruning. Tree wound paint is unnecessary, as it is has been found that proper pruning technique will allow a tree to heal itself: do not do a flush cut up to the bark with a cut; instead, do a collar cut, that is, cut below the area of the branch to be removed, where there is a "surround" of bark where it meets the tree. Cut, leaving this collar; this is where the healing cell structure of the tree exists, and it will callus over on its own. Tree wound paint is actually detrimental in that it seals in disease and moisture and does not allow for normal drying of the affected area; I stopped using the stuff long ago. Once this type of growth is removed, you can begin shaping the tree. Remember that removal or disbudding of lateral growth will cause the tree to send growth hormone to the apex (leader) and induce it to grow; cutting of the leader will induce lateral growth. If pruning the maintenance growth is a fair amount of pruning in your case, then leave the shaping to the following year. Any pruning will also induce unwanted watersprouts, which are weak offshoots that the tree produces within the crown; these must be removed, or they will take over and throw off the balance of the tree, and wanted growth will become secondary. There are excellent source books on pruning older trees, and a web search will yield much information on the subject. Good luck.
2006-11-16 02:50:32 · answer #1 · answered by steviewag 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
You'd really want to invest in a pro. If they're too close to the house, the roots are probably interfering with the foundation or sewer pipes. If you try to cut the branches next to the house, the tree will eventually topple over the other way. You're only supposed to cut branches that cross or grow towards the trunk. They're just the wrong tree for that situation.
2006-11-16 02:28:32 · answer #2 · answered by Kacky 7 · 1⤊ 2⤋
kacky is right get a pro it will cost some $$ but is worth it cut dead & cross limbs a light thining for air circulation.
2006-11-16 02:44:16 · answer #3 · answered by Steve C 5 · 0⤊ 1⤋
when u cut the branches just make sure u cut them off were their is a bud on the branch
2006-11-16 02:28:51 · answer #4 · answered by jap 1 · 1⤊ 1⤋