Look at the end of the sanding pad. Some older sanders had a slot in the end where you stick a screwdriver in to release the old paper and put the new in.
2006-11-14 06:44:11
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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1. there should be clips to attach 1/4 sheet of sandpaper to the bottom of the sander. There might even be little slots that the paper goes into.
2. If you really have a room to make over, don't waste your time with a finish sander. Consider getting a random orbital sander if you really want to sand things down, they are a lot faster than a finish sander and are only about $50 - $75.
2006-11-14 06:40:20
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answer #2
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answered by Anonymous
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The quarter-sheet sander is a workhorse for turning bumpy, ugly commercially painted walls into something nice. Power tools are coming down in price all the time. You can get a Makita or Nokota quarter-sheet sander for under $25.00 brand new, so you might want to consider replacing it...
Otherwise, look for two half inch slots opposite each other on two sides of the four-sided base. Get a long, flat-bladed screw-driver, put the tip in one slot and lever it back. It will only open about an eighth of an inch. Pull out one side of the old paper and insert the new. Repeat on the other side.
2006-11-14 06:53:19
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answer #3
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answered by FreddyBoy1 6
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I have one of the old sanders also. is it a 1/4 sheet type?? Mine has a little lever on the side that I push up on and it lifts the little teeth that holds the paper in should be one on both ends--------------------good luck If it's a big job you are doing then maybe a belt sander will help with this project............ have fun
2006-11-14 15:35:23
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answer #4
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answered by pipedreams 2
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I know a guy that does floors, he uses oxalic acid all the time on oak with good results. It is hard to not end up with lighter spots using the acid. I would sand out as much of the discoloration as possible and live with what is left behind. Make sure you get the floor real smooth with the 100 paper. The darker the stain you use the better it will hide the discoloration. When you apply your polyurethane assuming that is what you are going to use. Stay away from the synthetic lambswool applicator pads. They shed lots of fibers in the finish and you have to sand them out. A natural lambswool applicator pad is the best. Use a lint roller to remove any loose fibers then rinse the pad with mineral spirits. I have had good luck thinning the first coat of urethane with 1 part mineral spirits to 2 parts polyurethane. It will seal the wood so the other coats dry more evenly it will also dry much faster.
2016-03-28 05:32:32
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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Is it possibly sticky backed sandpaper? Some of the finish sanders have the sticky backed papers to eliminate use of clips, etc..
2006-11-14 06:43:07
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answer #6
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answered by Doug R 5
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2016-05-02 13:39:29
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answer #7
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answered by ? 3
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2017-01-25 06:44:28
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answer #8
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answered by ? 3
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I'm not expert on woodworking, so, when I have a question like this... I actually take the thing into HomeDepot or where-ever and let them show me how to do it and what product (sand-paper) I should be using with my 'tool'. They are super nice and helpful, and they really don't push you to buy anything.
Good Luck!
2006-11-14 18:09:50
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answer #9
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answered by Ket-Su Jhuzen 3
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