Leave it at least a good inch high. Edge ring around tree. Mulch heavy about 4 inch's with Super Grade A Cypress mulch it comes in a 3 cubic foot bag. A weed preventer like preen would by good to do in the early spring if you want to keep it weed free. Pull all other weeds. Fertilize it after it blooms with a slow release granules. A high middle number promotes better blooms. Maybe 12-20-14. Oh yeah the most important thing is the water don't forget the H2O!
This type of tree looks best untrimmed. It will take a few years maybe three to see its growth spurt. Just repeat every year to grow a great tree.
I have planted over 3000 trees in the landscape trade.
2006-11-13 09:08:11
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answer #1
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answered by Jim B 2
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You will have problems with a Bradford pear breaking off limbs. Plant a Cleveland pear instead as they do not have this problem. Plant to the top of the root ball digging the hole 2-3 times larger than the root ball
2006-11-13 03:31:28
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answer #2
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answered by aussie 6
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You want to make your hole plenty wide so roots are not cramped, but the hole need be only deep enough so that the tree is growing at the same level it was before. Don't make a mound, either. Keep everything level. And if you haven't already, do buy a tree guard for your new tree. This piece of plastic expands as the trunk grows and protects it from rodent damage (and string trimmers!)
2006-11-13 03:34:46
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answer #3
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answered by keepsondancing 5
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Never any deeper than it is in the nursery container. In my area, with heavy soil, landscapers plant about one inch higher than surrounding soil.
Dig your planting hole 2--3 times wider than the nursery container. Current thinking by University experts is that the hole (at least directly under the plant) be no deeper than the measurement from the bottom of the container to the soil level in the container. If you dig deeply, the soil and the plant will settle.
2006-11-13 03:38:20
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answer #4
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answered by Cornpatch 3
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